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LightningTeg on Aug/30/10 said:
Im going to look into the bearing replacment as this issue reallly bothers me. The engine is so smooth minus this bs rattle when it's cold lol. I have several spare dizzys to play with
I'd be interested to see how you make out with this if you find time.
 

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Yeah I just need to take one apart this weekend.
 

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I had this same problem, then I was changing out my rotor, cap, wires, and plugs to attempt to remedy a misfiring problem I was having after overheating the motor in my '00 GS. I started the motor after just changing the wires and nothing else, and not only did the misfiring stop, the engine purred like I just bought it and the clicking in my dizzy went away!!! WTF!!! Hey, that's awesome in my book, I just hope it doesn't come back. Upon removing the old rotor, I noticed it was quite worn down, not sure if that caused the clicking, although everyone I talk to says it's due to an inherent problem with the dizzy shaft bearing..... so why doesn't it stop when people replace the shaft? I haven't looked at a Teg distrib shaft, but my only guess is that the bearing is attached to the intake cam? Very weird.....

Edit! Just so you guys know, the rattling noise came back... Seemingly louder than ever... So changing the wires won't help.
 

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the bearing or bushing in the distributor housing is going.

I changed mine when the tbelt was being change. CHECK for RED dust in the cap!!!!
Mine also made noise on cold starts and disappeared after warmed up.
 

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How can you get to it? Do you have to take the entire dizzy apart?
 

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LightningTeg on Oct/25/10 said:
How can you get to it? Do you have to take the entire dizzy apart?
I kept a copy of this page for reference. He does refer to the bearing as a NOK BH388E 4.3 but it's not known if that's what you'd need. The company Nachi and CBR Bearing Company are two links I keep in the same folder but I haven't done much research into what's local because I have a spare dist.
 

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That's a useful video thanks. Where he mentions the metal plate on the igniter that's a heat-sink if you need to take that apart for a new ICM you should use thermal paste just like you would for a computer CPU heat-sink. Just a very thin coat is all you need.
 

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That topic on the replacement is awesome. Thanks.

If I get around to it this winter, I'll do my own writeup. I saved that webpage as an HTML file incase it ever goes down.
 

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Distributor Noise

Hello everyone. The distributor bearing is a common scapegoat during this type of diagnosis The fact of the matter remains this.....

The common thread in all of these posts is that usually there is a timing belt change out. These B18's are very sensitive to timing belt tensioners. I know that this post is old but I see the same people going nuts over this issue many, many times. The fact of the matter is this, if there was no noise before the change and now there is change.....it ain't the distributor. The valve lashes should always be adjusted at this time in any aluminum head.

The tensioner pulley and bolt need to be adjusted after the timing belt is on......you leave it semi-loose until the slack on the belt (seen before the timing cover is put on) is at the idler pulley for the belt. Loosen the pulley, let the slack get taken up at the pulley. If you're rotating the crank bolt to turn the engine over an you get a ton of slack between the two OHC's then your tensioner is too loose. This will cause that EXACT noise. Good news is that if you put the crank to TDC and turn the the engine over manually, you can get the slack right where you need it, loosen the timing belt tensioner then retighten and it will take up the slack.....the noise at the distributor will go away, guaranteed (as long as it wasn't there before). Many, many people go for the distributor and replace it and the noise is still there It won't go away until the timing belt is tensioned properly! Trust me, it will fix that noise. With the belt too loose it causes noise at the distributor.

That is that! Follow the book for tensioning the timing belt tensioner without having to take off the timing cover. The timing belt tensioner bolt has a rubber cap you can remove. If you have decent tools, this is not a problem. I use a 12 mm shallow socket with a Snap On shallow ratchet. It's easy if you have what you need for the job! Try it, you won't be disappointed. You just have to make sure that the belt slack is at the tensioner......I have fixed many cars with this problem. Shops will tell you everything under the sun about the cause....it's all BS. Try this and you'll drive away without that grinding/rattling at the dizzy!
 

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Mine did this and when I took the rotor off, the new rotor was different, it had a vein that stuck out a bit too far and rubbed the white shield in the distributor. Pulled white shield and it's quiet again.
 

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I have the same problem and I came to some info that said it could be the gear on the camshaft, does that sound accurate? I've already replaced the distributer that I know was bad but the rattle is still there
 

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To ressurect a long dead thread, the noise started after I did my valve lash. Getting ready to go out of town, but I'll see about tightening my timing belt when I get back in about a week.


Hello everyone. The distributor bearing is a common scapegoat during this type of diagnosis The fact of the matter remains this.....

The common thread in all of these posts is that usually there is a timing belt change out. These B18's are very sensitive to timing belt tensioners. I know that this post is old but I see the same people going nuts over this issue many, many times. The fact of the matter is this, if there was no noise before the change and now there is change.....it ain't the distributor. The valve lashes should always be adjusted at this time in any aluminum head.

The tensioner pulley and bolt need to be adjusted after the timing belt is on......you leave it semi-loose until the slack on the belt (seen before the timing cover is put on) is at the idler pulley for the belt. Loosen the pulley, let the slack get taken up at the pulley. If you're rotating the crank bolt to turn the engine over an you get a ton of slack between the two OHC's then your tensioner is too loose. This will cause that EXACT noise. Good news is that if you put the crank to TDC and turn the the engine over manually, you can get the slack right where you need it, loosen the timing belt tensioner then retighten and it will take up the slack.....the noise at the distributor will go away, guaranteed (as long as it wasn't there before). Many, many people go for the distributor and replace it and the noise is still there It won't go away until the timing belt is tensioned properly! Trust me, it will fix that noise. With the belt too loose it causes noise at the distributor.

That is that! Follow the book for tensioning the timing belt tensioner without having to take off the timing cover. The timing belt tensioner bolt has a rubber cap you can remove. If you have decent tools, this is not a problem. I use a 12 mm shallow socket with a Snap On shallow ratchet. It's easy if you have what you need for the job! Try it, you won't be disappointed. You just have to make sure that the belt slack is at the tensioner......I have fixed many cars with this problem. Shops will tell you everything under the sun about the cause....it's all BS. Try this and you'll drive away without that grinding/rattling at the dizzy!
 

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Hello everyone. The distributor bearing is a common scapegoat during this type of diagnosis The fact of the matter remains this.....

The common thread in all of these posts is that usually there is a timing belt change out. These B18's are very sensitive to timing belt tensioners. I know that this post is old but I see the same people going nuts over this issue many, many times. The fact of the matter is this, if there was no noise before the change and now there is change.....it ain't the distributor. The valve lashes should always be adjusted at this time in any aluminum head.

The tensioner pulley and bolt need to be adjusted after the timing belt is on......you leave it semi-loose until the slack on the belt (seen before the timing cover is put on) is at the idler pulley for the belt. Loosen the pulley, let the slack get taken up at the pulley. If you're rotating the crank bolt to turn the engine over an you get a ton of slack between the two OHC's then your tensioner is too loose. This will cause that EXACT noise. Good news is that if you put the crank to TDC and turn the the engine over manually, you can get the slack right where you need it, loosen the timing belt tensioner then retighten and it will take up the slack.....the noise at the distributor will go away, guaranteed (as long as it wasn't there before). Many, many people go for the distributor and replace it and the noise is still there It won't go away until the timing belt is tensioned properly! Trust me, it will fix that noise. With the belt too loose it causes noise at the distributor.

That is that! Follow the book for tensioning the timing belt tensioner without having to take off the timing cover. The timing belt tensioner bolt has a rubber cap you can remove. If you have decent tools, this is not a problem. I use a 12 mm shallow socket with a Snap On shallow ratchet. It's easy if you have what you need for the job! Try it, you won't be disappointed. You just have to make sure that the belt slack is at the tensioner......I have fixed many cars with this problem. Shops will tell you everything under the sun about the cause....it's all BS. Try this and you'll drive away without that grinding/rattling at the dizzy!
Registered just to say thanks to this piece of information I got my rattling issue solved. I had done the timing belt and valve lash on my 1997 CRV (similar engine) about 5k miles ago and the engine would rattle on cold start up. I took the distributor apart to change out the seal and O ring and didn't find any issues with the lower bushing or upper bearing.

I did a timing belt tension adjustment without taking anything off, other than loosening the accessory drive belts in front preventing my ratchet from being used to loosen the tensioner bolt. Set engine at TDC, loosen tensioner bolt 180deg and then turn the crankpulley counter clockwise till it starts to get stiff (I can't see the 3 teeth the service manual calls for), probably around 10degs or so of rotation on the crank pulley. Tighten the tensioner bolt and accessory belts, started it up and now it's all good.
 
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