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I know it is possible to get to 200 whp with a b18c1. There are some people even getting there number with ITR cams. What kind of setup would I need with ITR cams. I need something that has a "useable powerband" (i dont want a powerband that is peaky only after 7 or 8 k's) and flat torque curve (track racing) im thinking:

headers (either JDM 4-1 or Hytech), exhaust (es oval muffler with custom 2.5 piping), cat (carsound), taking out A/C, FPR, ITR valvetrain, ITR springs, ITR cam and cam gears or Skunk2 stage 1 (rather go with ITR), and throttlebody (how big should I go 62 or 64mm), possibably port and polish, flywheel, headgasket, lightweight rims, Hondata or VAFC and lots of tuning and putting my car on a diet (dc2 chasiss).

current mods: intake, comptech headers (dishing out comptech for one with a bigger collector), ACT HDSS, and XTreme Pressure plate

What else would I need to obtain 200 whp. What about getting ITR pistons and rods. I know it would help but with stock GSR (10:1) pistons and rods; is 200 whp obtainable with the mods listed above or are ITR (11:1) pistons and robs better would be better. I was told that a compression of 11:4 would work with P&P, beefier valvetrain, FPR, and cam gears would get me to the 200 mark. And is port and polish necessary and what about port-match the stock GSR intake manifold?
 

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Were you thinking along these lines?

-->Link<--

That dyno was from a GS-R with stock bottom end and ITR cams (among other things...)

BTW: This is not my car. Just thought I would make that clear.
 

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finally someone who answers someone with a dyno. that was the exact car I was thinking about. he didnt publish everything that made that car go, so dont expect a list of things to do. time to study up!
 

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Don't bother with the itr head work. If your serious get real cams and valve train. LSD is missing off your list and you will need solid mounts. Don't think that an itr part is going to make a great deal of power. Yes they are an improvement, but you need to invest in other parts over the oem. JE, Crower, Crane, Ferrea etc. All motor takes plenty of collective parts working together for 200 whp.
 

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Here is what I am planning for 200whp.

AEM CAI, 62mm itr throttle body (don't go any bigger than this you will lose flow velocity otherwise, and becides the engine will suck in what it needs anyway), Skunk 2 intake manifold, FPR, skunk 2 valve train, skunk 2 stage 1 cams, itr pistons and rods, hi-tech or smsp exhaust system (this will give you a nice flat torque curve), head work is worth it but only if you get it done to suit your package (i.e. where along the rev range do you want to make the most power, find a GOOD headwork shop to do this), A-pexi V-AFC or hondata stage 2, and at least 3 hours on the dyno.

Easy.

Upgrade your suspension as well if you are planning to go track; rear sway bar, springs shocks.

Then you should be set.
 

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you could also taper the stock GSR TB, the 60mm throttle plate will regulate flow. good advice, NZ dont forget the readily available 270cc H22A prelude injectors
 

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Stage 1 cams are useless. Find dyno numbers on each cam setup. A true hp cam will not work with a stock valve train like the stage 1's. PLus most of the time the stage 1's cost as or near as much as stage2 or 3.
 

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so if im reading this right alot of head work and better air flow can maybe get my gsr up to the 200 whp horse power mark also....my only goal i have for my car is to get it around 200 horse or so. are newer pistons required to achieve this or will the stock gsr bottom end hold up.
 

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haha surfer X -- great minds think alike-- you just type faster thats all---
these are all dyno queens-- those #'s mean nothing unless they are on the track--- lets put it this way, a vortech S/C makes near 300 whp--- runs 14.5 quarter mile---
my GSR puts 212whp @7psi runs 13.3 1/4 mi
nuf said
 

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I think I'll write up an article on how to read a dyno chart other than looking at the peak number and what seperates a good powercurve from a bad one. I know Mike D's got his good transient response article but I want to supplement it with some pics and comparisons.
 

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please do, most people dont know how to interpret them or even what std and correct power is and the difference, as well as how all dynos and conditions are different any given day. a dyno is an analogy for engine perfomance through the wheels. it is not perfect. mainly when I look at mine, I look at the shape and where power is made. for now, I am most interested in the area from 4400-6000 rpm. thats where I spend the majority of my time. I have never ran a timeslip in my car, I plan to soon.
 
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