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1995, acura integra, LS-SE
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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
A thread to track and discuss maintaining and upgrading my 95 LS "Barnaby"

Goals of this project:
  • To improve upon Acura's already brilliant sports car and make it even more enjoyable to drive!
  • To eventually convert this Automatic to Manual and take it to the track ?
105333


Basic info (more pictures coming soon)
  • Year - 1995
  • Color - Green (maybe aftermarket?)
  • Model - LS Special Edition
  • Engine - B18B1
  • Transmission - Automatic
  • Miles - 213k+
Work done so far...
  • Oil Change
    • Oil Filter - Bosch D3312 Distance Plus High
  • Replaced
    • Distributor O ring - Caused a huge oil mess I'm still cleaning up :cry:
    • Spark Plugs - Bosch Platinum
    • Air filter - Pentius OEM style
    • Radiator Hoses - Mishimoto Blue Silicon top and bottom
    • Radiator Hose Clamps - "Upgr8" brand T clamps
    • Coolant - Honda Type 2
    • Radiator Cap - Acura 19045-P72-005
    • Thermostat - Acura (19301-PAA-306) - Done 2/12
    • Replaced Spark Wires - NGK Blue
    • Battery Terminals - InstallGear 0/4/8 or 10 Gauge Battery Terminals
At the moment my next project will be to replace the hose that goes from the hard line near the intake to the front radiator hose inlet as it started leaking after replacing the main radiator hoses (Acura Part No.: 19527-PR4-A50).

I replaced the radiator hoses and thermostat in one pop as I believed it to be the source of a recent coolant leak but I have a hunch it might have actually been a few things. I ordered a replacement radiator cap off of amazon and it might not have been the correct one as I noticed I was leaking coolant at the front and rear radiator hose connections. I was going to upgrade to the Mishimoto hoses anyhow so decided to swap out the thermostat as well while I was at it. I also ordered the OEM cap and noticed it was not quite as tall as the one I had ordered previously so suspect it might have not been the correct style and was causing some pressure issues in the system.

Here is the one I ordered below in case anyone else has similar experiences or advice for other things to look out for, I was worried that maybe it might cause some head gasket issues but the car seems to be/was driving ok with none of the obvious signs of a blow head gasket due to excess coolant pressure aside from the slow coolant leak? Also, upon draining the old fluid it was still bright green with no signs of any oil contamination and also no signs of sludge in the oil, but would love some reassuring words to confirm?
After the coolant hose issue is resolved I'm hoping to move on to the bolt on big brakes with the mini cooper rotors, type r calipers and TSX brake pads show here.
But with the discs from this thread as they are drilled and slotted and might perform/look a bit nicer :D
Other future upgrades
  • CT icebox - if I can find one ?
  • Yonaka Exhuast
  • Tein suspension
  • Wrinkle Paint Valve Cover - current one is peeling bad
    • gonna follow this video and also want to do grey
Feel free to ask any questions about installation or the car itself and I'll do my best to answer, and any recommendations for any other upgrades along the lines of the big brake kit would be much appreciated. I want to eventually take Barnaby out to the track and want to make sure it's as ready as possible :)

Thanks and shout out to everyone on here as I followed a lot of the guides on here to do most of the work I've done so far?
 

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1995, acura integra, LS-SE
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7 Posts
Discussion Starter #2
Small update:

Was able to fix the leak by removing and remounting the house that was leaking ?. Looks like I just jostled it when installing the lower radiator hose.

On to the brakes ?
 

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We race a DA9 integra in Champcar so I can pass on a few hints:

  • We run the Mini rotors + Odyssey/Type R calipers and they work great. We have had best luck with OEM Mini/BMW rotor blanks. Drilled doesn't do anything for these cars but wear pads faster
  • For the track get some front pads like Hawk HP+, then go up to something like DTC-60 if you get really fast. Rears don't matter.
  • 99% of the time stock stuff is fine for running gear, with the exception of suspension
  • I can't speak to expensive suspension but we are on Bilstein sport shocks and we have run ebay coilovers, they work pretty damn well
  • Make sure your t-belt and water pump are recent
  • Poly shifter bushings + poly motor mount inserts are a nice upgrade (Energy suspension - Amazon)
  • Slot or upgrade your front A-arms to get more camber up front. Add washers to the rear upper link to reduce camber in back. We like ~2deg front ~2 deg rear
  • Don't go too stiff on trailing arm bushings. They are meant to dynamically stabilize the car under braking
And finally ...
- Are you sure you want to run an automatic? You really lose the control over gear selection on track and it may not be in the gear you want when you want it. Might be time to look into swapping. I'm also not sure of auto reliability on track.
 

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Registered
1995, acura integra, LS-SE
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7 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
We race a DA9 integra in Champcar so I can pass on a few hints:

  • We run the Mini rotors + Odyssey/Type R calipers and they work great. We have had best luck with OEM Mini/BMW rotor blanks. Drilled doesn't do anything for these cars but wear pads faster
  • For the track get some front pads like Hawk HP+, then go up to something like DTC-60 if you get really fast. Rears don't matter.
  • 99% of the time stock stuff is fine for running gear, with the exception of suspension
  • I can't speak to expensive suspension but we are on Bilstein sport shocks and we have run ebay coilovers, they work pretty damn well
  • Make sure your t-belt and water pump are recent
  • Poly shifter bushings + poly motor mount inserts are a nice upgrade (Energy suspension - Amazon)
  • Slot or upgrade your front A-arms to get more camber up front. Add washers to the rear upper link to reduce camber in back. We like ~2deg front ~2 deg rear
  • Don't go too stiff on trailing arm bushings. They are meant to dynamically stabilize the car under braking
And finally ...
- Are you sure you want to run an automatic? You really lose the control over gear selection on track and it may not be in the gear you want when you want it. Might be time to look into swapping. I'm also not sure of auto reliability on track.
This is amazing info thanks Whitney!

I'll definitely just grab the OEM rotors off rock auto if there is no gain from the slotted and drilled ones (y) I've also been looking at other suspension set ups and it's good to hear that your set up is delivering good results without crazy amounts of aftermarket parts ? Bravo Acura Engineers!

Will definitely look at the inserts for the mounts as I've seen some folks on YouTube mention that full hard or race mounts cause quite a bit of shaking/noise and I still want a somewhat tame daily driving experience, do these cause much of that or are they more subtle?

For maintenance I'm definitely going to look over everything and see what needs to get replaced as reliability is top of mind for the project overall.

As far as the track aspirations I would definitely want to do the conversion to manual at some point or, if the right opportunity comes around, I would definitely grab a manual integra and pass on this well loved car to another owner. Having looked at a lot of conversion threads the process does not seem beyond reason in terms of parts and install but not something I can accomplish at the moment. I live in an apartment so no place to do major work and would prefer to do it myself for the experience ?‍? and to save on the labor costs.

Honestly I should update my goal to simply improve the car beyond Acura's already brilliant base level and make it even more enjoyable to drive which is what drew me to the car in the first place ?
 

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1995, acura integra, LS-SE
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7 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
Update 7/20

A bit after replacing my Radiator Hoses with Mishimoto Silicone Hoses and doing some chasing I discovered the true source of the leak.

The Drain Petcock that was used by the previous owner was the incorrect one and was likely only meant to be temporary. I at first tried simply replacing it but the threads were gone due to the incorrect one being used previously.

So after pondering for a bit I decided it might just be time to replace the radiator instead of messing with repairing or sealing the drain petcock.

Here are the parts used below.
Replacement was relatively easy.
  1. Drain Fluid via petcock
  2. Remove top and bottom Radiator Hose
  3. Loosen and detach Hoses for transmission oil cooler near top of transmission.
  4. Un-clip fan connectors on left and right side
  5. Loosen both radiator stays
  6. Loosen and move ac hose bracket
  7. Lift Radiator up and out
  8. Transfer over oil cooler hoses to new radiator
  9. Lower radiator back into place, make sure the small pegs at the bottom line up.
  10. Hook up all hoses again
  11. Top off coolant and transmission fluid
  12. Run car and check for leaks
After removing the air from the system and making sure it was fully topped off after warm up there is no longer a coolant leak but as is always the case more work was discovered along the way.

For now I've just noted a few things that need replacing but my next step at the moment will be brakes.

Parts List for replacement
  • Type R Calipers
  • TSX Brake Pads
  • Mini Cooper 280mm Rotors
Still need to order some actual tools like a jack, jack stands and a bleeder but otherwise pretty close to Type R big brakes :)
 
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