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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
OK, I've searched and don't see anyone who has done this though the topic is mentioned. But not a fix for a Gen 3 Integra that I see.

I need to change my brake pedal switch. It's definitely out. I can unlock the lock nut at the top and turn it somewhat, but cant' gain access to the wire clip holding it in place (So I can only turn the switch a little - it needs to be unthreaded quite a ways to get it out). So, I took off the lower front panel of the dash. Now I can see the purple/blue clip connecting to the switch, but even with the panel off I can't get in there. It might be possible from the top panel, ugh.

Anyone changed this switch on a Gen 3 car? I have a 2000 Integra 4 door automatic.

-Michael
 

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Michaels144 on Mar/03/08 said:
I can probably help some. You have a 2000 automatic? Tell us a little more about your car and your symtoms.
Hey Michaels,

I've got a 2000 LS. The brake light switch no longer works, so I have to use the shift lock release every time I start my teg. Also, none of my brake lights work. I've replaced all the bulbs. '

Any help would be greatly appreciated.
 

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I changed mine when I did my auto -> manual conversion and from what I remember it wasnt so hard to get to. I believe I used a small screwdriver and just felt around to press and release the plug from the sensor and then just screwed it out. Mine came out fairly easily and I was even thinking of adjusting it sometime soon so if I do get some good weather in the next few days then I'll let you know how that goes.
 

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I've replaced quite a few of these little buggers. They are a PITA. You'll have to disconnect the switch before you can unscrew it. If not you'll run the severe risk if ripping the wires. Ive had a few that lead me to almost kicking the car......lol.. I walked away, came back and eventually got it. You def. need a load of patience though. If not, bring it by a local repair facility and they shouldn't charge you more than a 1/2 hour labor to do so.
 

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wrenchez81 on Jan/01/10 said:
I've replaced quite a few of these little buggers. They are a PITA. You'll have to disconnect the switch before you can unscrew it. If not you'll run the severe risk if ripping the wires. Ive had a few that lead me to almost kicking the car......lol.. I walked away, came back and eventually got it. You def. need a load of patience though. If not, bring it by a local repair facility and they shouldn't charge you more than a 1/2 hour labor to do so.
Haha. Yeah, I'd like to give it a go myself before I hand it over to someone else. Do you know what the exact name of the part is and where I can find it?
 

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The exact name is The brake/stop lamp light switch.

Borg Warner part #'s

S37025 w/cruise control - $47.99 in FWB, FL ( O'reilly Auto Parts)
S37021 w/o cruise control - $4.99 in FWB, FL (O'reilly Auto Parts)

You should be able to have a local parts house cross reference the part number if they don't carry BW products. There is an incredible difference in the price. The reason for that is because there are two additional pins to de-activate cruise control when you apply the brakes.

Hope this helps broski!
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Hey Chrsmrly,

Just a couple notes here. First, good for you for trying it yourself. I did as well. Second, I did everything the repair manual said, but found out that the 2000 GS automatics are WAY different than the manual transmission third gen integras. I see yours is an LS and you don't mention whether its an automatic, hopefully not. If its manual, its relatively easy. Just disconnect as mentioned above and unscrew it. Its also easy for the repair shops to fix.

In my case, with the automatic transmission, it was a nightmare. Tried underneath - no go. Several of my mechanic friends tried underneath - not even close. So took the dash, everything apart and still couldn't get to the switch - the steering column was in the way - well, that is where I drew the line, so I took it in to the acura dealers. They spent 3.5 hours before getting it. Had to take the steering column out! So I didn't feel so bad not finishing it myself.

I only paid for 1/2 hour work because I called ahead of time and they said, "Oh, no problem they're easy, $30" or something close to that. I told them I had an automatic third gen and they said no problem. This was the manager mind you. So, I said, "Can I hold you to $30?". He said absolutely.

So, knowing how difficult it was, I took it in and held them to the $30. Then gave them a good tip. The shop Greg's Japanese Auto here in my area later estimated this job at $149 for my model assuming I had aready purchased the part. Which I had.

So, good luck. Mine still works great. Please let us know your experience.

-Michael
 

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wrenchez81 on Jan/02/10 said:
The exact name is The brake/stop lamp light switch.

Borg Warner part #'s

S37025 w/cruise control - $47.99 in FWB, FL ( O'reilly Auto Parts)
S37021 w/o cruise control - $4.99 in FWB, FL (O'reilly Auto Parts)

You should be able to have a local parts house cross reference the part number if they don't carry BW products. There is an incredible difference in the price. The reason for that is because there are two additional pins to de-activate cruise control when you apply the brakes.

Hope this helps broski!
It does! I really appreciate it! Now the hunt is on to find S37025. Damn cruise control...
 

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Michaels144 on Jan/02/10 said:
Hey Chrsmrly,

Just a couple notes here. First, good for you for trying it yourself. I did as well. Second, I did everything the repair manual said, but found out that the 2000 GS automatics are WAY different than the manual transmission third gen integras. I see yours is an LS and you don't mention whether its an automatic, hopefully not. If its manual, its relatively easy. Just disconnect as mentioned above and unscrew it. Its also easy for the repair shops to fix.

In my case, with the automatic transmission, it was a nightmare. Tried underneath - no go. Several of my mechanic friends tried underneath - not even close. So took the dash, everything apart and still couldn't get to the switch - the steering column was in the way - well, that is where I drew the line, so I took it in to the acura dealers. They spent 3.5 hours before getting it. Had to take the steering column out! So I didn't feel so bad not finishing it myself.

I only paid for 1/2 hour work because I called ahead of time and they said, "Oh, no problem they're easy, $30" or something close to that. I told them I had an automatic third gen and they said no problem. This was the manager mind you. So, I said, "Can I hold you to $30?". He said absolutely.

So, knowing how difficult it was, I took it in and held them to the $30. Then gave them a good tip. The shop Greg's Japanese Auto here in my area later estimated this job at $149 for my model assuming I had aready purchased the part. Which I had.

So, good luck. Mine still works great. Please let us know your experience.

-Michael
Yeah... I may not try it myself know all that. Haha. I just gave Acura Carland a call over in Duluth, Ga. They quoted me $149 to get it installed (part & labor). Not too bad I guess. They're booked up today, so I'll try on Monday.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Sounds like you have an automatic, so yes, that sounds like a good deal. They'll earn every penny of that $149 :)

If you have cruise control, make sure it works after you get it back - they have to disconnect all of that when doing the switch and can only reconnect it by taking the whole thing apart again. Automatics are rare, so they don't have a lot of practice. Just make sure you know what was working before, and make sure everything works after. They're going to take a lot of things apart.

-Michael
 

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Ok to avoid posting an additional topic, my plug came off and 6 bruised 3 bleeding fingers later I still can't get the plug back into the switch. I have the steering wheel removed and lower panel as well. The thing refuses to go in...any advice?
 

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In my case, with the automatic transmission, it was a nightmare. Tried underneath - no go. Several of my mechanic friends tried underneath - not even close. So took the dash, everything apart and still couldn't get to the switch - the steering column was in the way - well, that is where I drew the line, so I took it in to the acura dealers. They spent 3.5 hours before getting it. Had to take the steering column out! So I didn't feel so bad not finishing it myself.
Man..that is crazy, I think after 2 hours of fighting it I would have cut it loose and soldered in the new one. :rolleyes:
 

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Below are the steps I followed to replace my brake light switch on a 95 Integra GSR with manual transmission.
These may not be the most expeditious steps, but it worked for me. Total start to finish time including much trial and error, about 4 hours.
1. Remove upper and lower steering column ignition switch cover
2. Remove lower dash panel
3. Remove lower knee brace metal panel behind lower dash panel
Below is a pic just before the metal knee brace is removed

4. Use a 14 mm open end wrench to unlock the nut nearest the brake switch assembly. The other nut on the engine side of the bracket is welded in place, so it cannot be removed.

5. Create support area so that you can lay face-down and use your left hand to reach under the dash to unscrew the switch. After unlocking the jam nut I was able to rotate the switch about a quarter turn with my left hand so that I could see the clip on the wire pigtail.
6. Using a long screwdriver depress the clip on the pigtail and work the clip away from the switch. This required a lot of trial and error, as I was unable to reach the clip with my hand. The pictures show what the clip and switch look like so that you can determine how and where to push the clip in order to release it.
7. After removing the clip from the switch, I was able to completely unscrew the switch and remove it.
8. Verify the new switch matches the old switch exactly, as mine had four terminals and I understand the non-cruise equipped cars only have two electrical terminals.
9. Install the switch by again lying face down on the support and using your left hand to insert and screw the switch in place.
10. Position the switch so that the plastic threaded end of the switch (not the plunger) is about 1/4 turn from contacting the brake bumper. This is the correct positioning, but I was unable to install my pigtail at this position, so I noted that location and rotated my switch about another 1/4 turn in order to align the pigtail so that it could be inserted into the switch correctly.
11. Using a screwdriver and much patience I was able to work the pigtail into the switch and hear the 'click' indicating the clip had seated properly.
12. After the clip was installed, I rotated the switch back the 1/4 turn to properly space it from the pedal bumper, and tightened the locknut.
13. Test the brake for proper light operation, and then replace the trim.
 

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Before going through all the agony of trying to replace the switch, make sure the issue is not simply that the plastic plug that is on the pedal shaft has not broken and fallen out. That’s what contacts the switch button and turns off the lights. On my ’98, the pieces of it were on the floor. It should be a flat plastic pad that contacts the button and a pointed nub that goes through the hole in the pedal shaft. The flat pad is 3.5 mm thick. I just found some same thickness plastic and glued it in place over the hole. Works. Spent two hours trying to get the switch out before noticeing, in the Eric the Car Guy video on YouTube, what the real culprit was. The functional repair took 15 min. plus 24 hours for the glue to cure fully before use.
 

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Below are the steps I followed to replace my brake light switch on a 95 Integra GSR with manual transmission.
These may not be the most expeditious steps, but it worked for me. Total start to finish time including much trial and error, about 4 hours.
1. Remove upper and lower steering column ignition switch cover
2. Remove lower dash panel
3. Remove lower knee brace metal panel behind lower dash panel
Below is a pic just before the metal knee brace is removed

4. Use a 14 mm open end wrench to unlock the nut nearest the brake switch assembly. The other nut on the engine side of the bracket is welded in place, so it cannot be removed.

5. Create support area so that you can lay face-down and use your left hand to reach under the dash to unscrew the switch. After unlocking the jam nut I was able to rotate the switch about a quarter turn with my left hand so that I could see the clip on the wire pigtail.
6. Using a long screwdriver depress the clip on the pigtail and work the clip away from the switch. This required a lot of trial and error, as I was unable to reach the clip with my hand. The pictures show what the clip and switch look like so that you can determine how and where to push the clip in order to release it.
7. After removing the clip from the switch, I was able to completely unscrew the switch and remove it.
8. Verify the new switch matches the old switch exactly, as mine had four terminals and I understand the non-cruise equipped cars only have two electrical terminals.
9. Install the switch by again lying face down on the support and using your left hand to insert and screw the switch in place.
10. Position the switch so that the plastic threaded end of the switch (not the plunger) is about 1/4 turn from contacting the brake bumper. This is the correct positioning, but I was unable to install my pigtail at this position, so I noted that location and rotated my switch about another 1/4 turn in order to align the pigtail so that it could be inserted into the switch correctly.
11. Using a screwdriver and much patience I was able to work the pigtail into the switch and hear the 'click' indicating the clip had seated properly.
12. After the clip was installed, I rotated the switch back the 1/4 turn to properly space it from the pedal bumper, and tightened the locknut.
13. Test the brake for proper light operation, and then replace the trim.
Excellent instructions IMFAR427 Loosening the lock nut so you can rotate the switch makes it MUCH easier! Thank you! Replacing my switch fixed the cruise on my 97 LS. WOOHOOO!
 

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Below are the steps I followed to replace my brake light switch on a 95 Integra GSR with manual transmission.
These may not be the most expeditious steps, but it worked for me. Total start to finish time including much trial and error, about 4 hours.
1. Remove upper and lower steering column ignition switch cover
2. Remove lower dash panel
3. Remove lower knee brace metal panel behind lower dash panel
Below is a pic just before the metal knee brace is removed

4. Use a 14 mm open end wrench to unlock the nut nearest the brake switch assembly. The other nut on the engine side of the bracket is welded in place, so it cannot be removed.

5. Create support area so that you can lay face-down and use your left hand to reach under the dash to unscrew the switch. After unlocking the jam nut I was able to rotate the switch about a quarter turn with my left hand so that I could see the clip on the wire pigtail.
6. Using a long screwdriver depress the clip on the pigtail and work the clip away from the switch. This required a lot of trial and error, as I was unable to reach the clip with my hand. The pictures show what the clip and switch look like so that you can determine how and where to push the clip in order to release it.
7. After removing the clip from the switch, I was able to completely unscrew the switch and remove it.
8. Verify the new switch matches the old switch exactly, as mine had four terminals and I understand the non-cruise equipped cars only have two electrical terminals.
9. Install the switch by again lying face down on the support and using your left hand to insert and screw the switch in place.
10. Position the switch so that the plastic threaded end of the switch (not the plunger) is about 1/4 turn from contacting the brake bumper. This is the correct positioning, but I was unable to install my pigtail at this position, so I noted that location and rotated my switch about another 1/4 turn in order to align the pigtail so that it could be inserted into the switch correctly.
11. Using a screwdriver and much patience I was able to work the pigtail into the switch and hear the 'click' indicating the clip had seated properly.
12. After the clip was installed, I rotated the switch back the 1/4 turn to properly space it from the pedal bumper, and tightened the locknut.
13. Test the brake for proper light operation, and then replace the trim.
Hi! I just had someone help me change out my break switch on my 97 LS automatic. It was a royal pain in the bum for the guy helping. Today when I went to drive it, I STILL had to use my key to get it out of park. The break switch is engaging because the lights now easily go on and off. Another issue I noticed when I took off driving is that my car is very sluggish going from 1st gear! My speedometer and ROM thing and the temp gauge isn’t working either. I do have cruise control. Is it possible he put it back in wrong? Please help! I miss my car so bad.
 
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