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Please share your alignment specifications and measurements to help others find good combinations for road course, autocross, or street driving.

Post up:

- Alignment specs (front/rear)
--- Camber
--- Caster
--- Toe
- Ride height
- Wheel diameter/width/offset
- Tire model and size
- Types of driving/racing
- Suspension mods (springs, swaybars, UCA swap, etc.)
- Notes about what works/doesn't work
 

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- Alignment specs (front/rear)
--- Camber: Front:~-2.00 L/R Rear: L: ~-1.0L R: ~-1.5
--- Caster: Unknown, it was off by around .5 degree L and R
--- Toe: Typically run zero rear toe, and and mild toe out up front

- Ride height: Stock ITR springs on the lower perch of my bilstein shocks

- Wheel diameter/width/offset: Stock LS meshes

- Tire model and size: 205/50/15 Bridgestone RE-71R

- Types of driving/racing: Some street driving to and from work, and mostly autocross

- Suspension mods (springs, swaybars, UCA swap, etc.):
Skunk 2 UCA, ITR springs with bilstein sports, US ITR front and rear sway bar. Most of the bushings are 1-3 years old, OEM

- Notes: Need to figure out what the caster is slightly off on one side. Rear camber can be fixed with washers or camber kit, just been lazy getting the washers for one side. I want to try -2.5 degrees of camber up front, still getting some tire roll over that I would like to minimize.

Eventual plans would be to get an LSD, run my 15x7 wheels or get a 15x8 wheel, run the car as is at a track and autocross for a bit before changing the spring rates...
 

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I don't know a lot of stuff about alignment, so I just let the shop that does mine do their thing. They know my car well and what I do with it, so I just put it in their hands

This is one of the alignments I had right before a track event




Also I'll attach a very informative document they gave me

Plus there are lots of different articles like this out there to help understand the effects of stuff like this

An example: Track Alignment Specs: EG/EK Honda Civic & DC2 Integra | Speed Academy
 

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Here is my latest alignment I had done last week. I added about .5 degrees of camber to the driver side and used washers on the passenger rear to drop the camber from -1.5 degrees to -1. Much better other than the caster.

I had issues zero'ing out the camber gauge I had, but I was able to eyeball the increase of negative camber. I don't think I could use it if I tried to do the alignment in my garage. The smartphone app was more accurate
 
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