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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
As some of you may know I got into an accident a few weeks (nearly a month now) ago.... and I finally took my car to get an alignment done today...and oh believe me... it took a while to get it aligned since it was really off; however, the tech could get my front driver side's wheel completly strait or stock camber so the bottom is still coming out like this /.

He got it as strait as possible; however, I am still worried. Tech said I may just get new bushings and bolt for the A frame (Upper Control arm); however, the store manager said I would need a new Upper control arm, which of course is more...

I would like some feedback for I never experienced with front camber kits and doing some ebay search... there are many; however, I seen ingall as being a popular one. I also saw on another post on here, someone had feedback that he couldn't get his wheel aligned due to having a front ingall rather then the stock... that is another point I wanted to ask and in hope to gear me towards the right direction.

Thanks
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Would it be good to get new bushings, bolt or A fram or ingall front camber kit?

If ingall... since someone on here had problem with alignment with them on... what is the percentage or drop limit/range?
 

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Not quite sure, I'm not too awful good with camber kits since my car is rather tolerant from drops/changes (we don't need as much as a camber feedback when we lower since we don't gain much camber change, like that of an Integra apparently)

The person who had a problem w/ the alignment, they were probably dropped a lot more than what a good Ingalls kit would suffice, and so forth.. I mean some ppl like to ''slam'' their rides for whatever reasons.


not sure, but if I use my context skills, I believe that's what the Ingalls FCK looks like, it has bolts on it or w/e

Actually, I just went to their site, you should too.


If I were you, I'd take another look at the UCA (you could get new bushings if your car is rather old) if it's alright, the man's just tryin' to rob ya', for lack of describing.. If the technician said only up to the bolt, getting it wouldn't hurt. Now if the camber is just way whack, you could go with a camber kit..


~P2P
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Saw that already,

Yea the person that acutally worked on my car said bolt and bushings but the store manager who also work on cars said I need a camber kit basically but I can drive the car fine.

I am like, wouldn't that wear but he I dunno very flaky now. Getting a camber kit would probably be a easy and gurantee solution; however, if a bushing and bolt could do it. It can also save a good amount of money... whch then brings in another question... if its been aligned already but if I go get the camber kit or bushing/bolt myself... would I still need to re-align at shop or can it be a DIY easy fix at home since the LCA would be intact? or would it all change with the UCA?

Again this is just for the front driver side.
 

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You would be better off getting any bent parts replaced instead of adding kits to re-align bad ones. All that will cause is screwed up suspension geometry that will act weird when you hit bumps or swerve. You just never know how it's going to act when parts are all bent up...plus those bent parts have been stressed and could theoretically break.

There are some aftermarket control arms out there that are pretty affordable. If that's too expensive look at the junkyards for stock parts. I keep hearing rumors that some city out there has junkyards that actually have integras...I know there sure aren't any here in KC.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
You would be better off getting any bent parts replaced instead of adding kits to re-align bad ones. Never said anything else was bent. only thing I changed which was very obvious was the rear passenger's trailing arm. But this is regarding to the front driver side. Also said:
Quote: I keep hearing rumors that some city out there has junkyards that actually have integras...I know there sure aren't any here in KC.
[/i][/i]
The junkyards here tend to jack prices like Dealer or higher and well... barley any to no integras :(

I may just get a new A frame (UCA).

I was looking at these and was wondeirng if anyone had any experience with any of these.

Link 1

Link 2

Link 3 (Drop Zones)

Lastly, It seems SPC's ball joint idea is also very unique and different but how do they do? anyone used these, results?

SPC Performance's Front Ball joint camber
 

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Mavliu, there is no adjustment in the stock UCA, the bushings are pressed in and the bolts would not bend. That has nothing to do with it. Either the mechanic is confused, or you are. The UCA consists of the ball joint, and the two mount points where it pivots under the shock tower. If the alignment spec is out, something is bent. Integras have NO CAMBER ADJ stock. Simply put, bushings and bolts wont do anything. Get under there and find out what is actually bent. Buying a camber kit to correct and out of spec suspension arm is useless and quite frankly dangerous.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
dyingwish on Feb/10/06 said:
Mavliu, there is no adjustment in the stock UCA, the bushings are pressed in and the bolts would not bend. That has nothing to do with it. Either the mechanic is confused, or you are. The UCA consists of the ball joint, and the two mount points where it pivots under the shock tower. If the alignment spec is out, something is bent. Integras have NO CAMBER ADJ stock. Simply put, bushings and bolts wont do anything. Get under there and find out what is actually bent. Buying a camber kit to correct and out of spec suspension arm is useless and quite frankly dangerous.
Thanks for the clarification, I was wondering how its possible just to fix with bushing and bolt unless if the bolt was bent and bushing is torn and very stiff but then it just shows how lame the mechanic is.

Thats what I have planned to do, just prefer more insight or critique. Thanks but I am thinking its the A frame since it is cambering out (Positive) from the bottom. = "/" should be more like "I" but he did correct it from what it was before which was more like in between "-" and "/". LOL
 

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it almost sounds like, now this is purely speculation, like the lower control arm may be bent (where it pivots). There several parts down there, all of which are easy to replace. The reason I say this is the camber may not off vertically, but at an oblique angle, which is indicative of LCA being bent. I can't say anything for sure without seeing it. I would look carefully at all the angles and compare to the other side. You may not even be able to see it though. But you can rest assured its NOT the bushings. Keep us posted, as I'm curious to see what really is bent.
 

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yeah you can change 'em out while you're at it (=

but I'm surprised, if it would be the LCA, that he didn't mention anything, I mean usually when I look at the arms, I look at both.. ofcourse the U- seems to be the one most diagnose first, but ya know how some ppl are.. I suggest, check everything - everything - since you appear to have been in an accident if I recall.. look at it again to make sure. Do you have a spec. WS(s) from the dude? or did he just tell you so-and-so?

~P2P
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
They just told me, no spec sheet or any ****.

I just took some pics... still obviously not the best to tell; however, you can see how the driver side's bottom is cambering out.

Driver side's front (Cambering out on the bottom)








Passenger Side's (You can see its not coming out from the bottom)




BTW... Alucard, if you see this... the passenger sides are the two rims I got from you, on the car right now. While I am waiting for the other 2 so I can replace it on the driver sides.
 

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that really does appear to be either the LCA, or the actual ball joint has ripped free from the UCA. The remaining parts would have to be bent severly to produce that kind of positive camber.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
It was a lot worse but yea I am going to expect this all myself after the alignment because I just don't trust that place I go to anymore. They went from cool to very poor in the last month or two, dunno why. I think the manage is having personal problems it seems...
 

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yeah that is pretty bad considering it's the front. Something is srsly bent, worn, or broken even (probably not as far as broken)

I'm with steve on this one

It really wouldn't be the ball joint, that's a necessary major part that doesn't get skipped if there are obvious camber/caster concerns.

~P2P
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
I just took the wheel off and took pics of the inside.

















The last picture is the one I am kinda weary about... Notice the ball joint? The bushing seems to have a slight gap to where the arm connects?

I am also thinking if I can maybe just screw the nut in (see pic 2 or PDR_0015.JPG).
 

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ok ya man, your upper ball joint, that's f'ed up. You may consider replacing it (they didn't mention the replacing of it with anything else did they?) So what did you hit so harshly?

simply put, camber on just about the most of FWD cars are static (lest you like add a camber kit), if you suffer from bad camber (whether negative or positve) that is a sure indication of a bent/worn/loose/broken/missing part. That's not exactly slight to me. I thought it looked fine, but it sure does look different from mine. And my front-end went through hell, had to send it to body shop (Sterling) for them to repair it. It failed an alignment test once or twice after completion (I had VERY bad caster, if I think about it, is all I can remember) and yada yada.. took them forever to fix, but now it's all new again. I have the clunk on the passenger when turning the wheel @ 0, but I mean, my wheel at that time of accident was like a quarter-length of the wheel well into the fender.



not the best pics because it was a complete ***** to get them.. lol..

mine are snug and fit. Your ''slight gap'' isn't that slight to me, esp. in photos 0019 & 0021, ofcourse. What exactly did this accident pertain to?

~P2P
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Ok not slight but is ball joint.
Lets just say my teggy on a road course went off road. In the process it jumped a roughly (half a foot, tall) curb at high speeds.

Edited* Pics removed

I had to change the rear passenger trailing arm. bought 4 rims from Alucard on here (still waiting for the rest and also insurance since it got ****ed in the shipping process).

So yea... I hope this is the only thing left... I know my oil pan is dented in and so is some parts of the piping of the cat-back.

Will give me more excuse later to finally get n/a bolt ons (header, cat) and ITR LIP to cover a pretty nasty paint peel on the bumper.
 

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mavliu on Feb/10/06 said:
Quote: You would be better off getting any bent parts replaced instead of adding kits to re-align bad ones. Never said anything else was bent. only thing I changed which was very obvious was the rear passenger's trailing arm. But this is regarding to the front driver side. Also, I asked them if I would need new parts, tech guy just told me bushings and bolts so he can get it more to spec and tighter. He tried adjusting it as best/strait as possible with the two bolts (under hood) holding the a frame in place.[/i] Quote: I keep hearing rumors that some city out there has junkyards that actually have integras...I know there sure aren't any here in KC.[/i][/i] The junkyards here tend to jack prices like Dealer or higher and well... barley any to no integras :(

I may just get a new A frame (UCA).

I was looking at these and was wondeirng if anyone had any experience with any of these.

Link 1

Link 2

Link 3 (Drop Zones)

Lastly, It seems SPC's ball joint idea is also very unique and different but how do they do? anyone used these, results?

SPC Performance's Front Ball joint camber
My personal experience is that the Ingalls kits suck. I used them for about 7 months and they kept loosening up. If you have to replace the UCA's I'd recommend going with the Skunk2's because they give you camber adjustment. Mine have been awesome since I replaced the crappy Ingalls kits.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
I am going to change the ball join first. I may buy another stock integra's if I can. I also still need to check my rear because when I brake. Its making noise as well as... if I turn left, I hear noise and can feel it if I don't turn left its fine. So something is wrong on the passenger rear, still...
 

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What kind of sound do you hear? is it like a grinding, thumping, clunking, scraping, popping etc etc? Do you hear it if you rotate the wheel or only from braking/turning left? Checked lugs, lock, brake dust shield, [assume] axle and sway mounting is fine? can't really determine..

Also, better watch the location of some of those oil pan dents.. they can really screw you over and your vtec =\

~P2P
 
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