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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Updates:

Rear is complete and finished, all parts will work

Front is still in question I have no idea what rotor with work with the 25T bracket
 

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Discussion Starter #2 (Edited)
Before buying everything search the internet for coupon codes for Advance and AutoZone.

If you do not have a press, you will need to find someone who can change your front wheel bearings and hubs.

The rear hub assembly can be a pain to remove all the bearing, so make sure that the races are removed, before placing new parts on to rear.

This only cost me about $400 since I re-drilled my Wilwood top hats and already had ITR rear brakes.

Reason I upgrade was the racecar needed 17x8 for 245/40. In 4x100 it would have been $800 a set, because they are hard to find cheap. The 5x114.3 versions are all over craigslist for about $300, and I needed 3 sets (1 rain and 2 dries.) With a little math it was cheaper for me to do the conversion.

Parts needed:
This is the list of parts and part numbers that I order. I know this way works.

Front Parts List:
-01’ Acura Integra Type R Front Hubs (Quantity: 2)
Part #:
Dealer: 44600-ST7-R00

-94-01’ Acura Integra Wheel Bearing (Quantity: 2)
Part #:
AutoZone: 510030

-Front Spindle Nut (Quantity: 2)
Part #:
Advance: 04972

-Front Caliper and Bracket (23T{ITR}, 25T, and 28T{NSX}) (Quantity: 2) (Ebay junk yard)
If you find a part number that works let me know, so I can update
92-94 Vigor ALL LS
92-94 Vigor ALL GS
96-98 TL
95-98 TL
95 TL
97-01 ITR
98-99 CL
97 CL
95-97 Accord Sedan
95-97 Accord Sedan
91-97 Accord Wagon
95-97 Accord Wagon
91-97 Accord Wagon
95-97 Accord Wagon
98-01 CRV EX
98-01 CRV LX
00-01 CRV SE
99-00 Civic Si
Part #:

-Front Rotor (Quantity: 2)
Depending on the Bracket or the caliper the rotor might change.
I am guessing ITR front rotor or 97-01 Prelude Front Rotor, but no idea. If you find a part number that works let me know, so I can update.
With 23T Rotor Part #
ITR rotor
With 25T Rotor Part #
???????????????????????????????????
With 28T Rotor Part #
ITR rotor with 1.5mm spacer between bracket and upright with 99-00 RL caliper mounting bracket bolts

-Front brake pads (Quantity: 1 set)
ITR front brake pads

Rear Parts List:
-Rear hub assembly (Quantity: 2)
97-01’ Honda Prelude SH Rear Hubs
Part #:
Advance: NT512144

-Rear Rotor (Quantity: 2)
02-04’ Acura RSX Type S Rear Rotors
Part #:
AutoZone: 31245

-Rear Caliber and Bracket (Quantity: 2)
02+ RSX rear caliber (same as Type S) Ebay, Junkyard
If you find a part number that works let me know, so I can update
Part #:


-Rear Spindle Nut (Quantity: 2)
93-02’ Mazda 626 or Protégé Axle Nut
Part #:
Advance: 103-0519

-Rear brake pads (Quantity: 1 set)
ITR rear brake pads

-Rear Dust Cover (Quantity: 2)
97-01’ Honda Prelude SH
Part #:
Honda: 42326-SG0-000


Place I bought from

Acura Dealer (cheaper that local dealer by $80)
acuraautomotiveparts.org

Honda
Local dealer

Advance (look for coupon codes I used a $50 off $150+ -- VISA)
shop.advanceautoparts.com

Autozone
Local joint

Cost Break Down for me with Wilwood front brakes.

Still need
Front calibers -- CL or RL from junk yard are $13 each = $26
Front rotors -- no idea which ones work but ITR are $34 each = $68
Brake pads -- wild card $50 - $500

So you are looking at about $600 if you are going stock to 5 lug, without brake pads.
Labor is something I did not count since all my labor was free.
Ebay wants 850-1000 for 5 lug so not I guess poor man but cheaper.
 

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Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
Front conversation

Tools:
Large Hammer
10mm wench or socket
17mm wench or socket
14mm socket
19mm wench or socket
32mm socket
dykes

Removal
Remove Wheel
Discount Two 10mm bolts that hold brake line to upright
Remove Brake Caliber, disconnect if upgrade to ITR(or like) front brakes
Remove Brake Bracket
Remove Rotor
Remove 32mm Axle Nut
Remove 3 cotter pins (upper ball joint, lower ball joint, and steering arm)
Remove 3 nuts that hold the 3 ball joints in
Pop out the 3 ball joints
It should now look something like this.


The upright should now be taken some where to get new hub and wheel bearing put in



Install
One the new bearing and hub are pressed in, re-install (axle nut and 3 ball joints), this is also a good time to replace ball points if the look or feel bad.
 

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Discussion Starter #4 (Edited)
Rear conversation

Tools:
10mm wench or socket
17mm wench or socket
12mm socket
32mm socket
Flat blade screw driver
Magnet tool
Heat gun (if bearing is stuck)

Removal

Remove Wheel
Discount Two 10mm bolts that hold heat sheild
Remove Brake Caliber & disconnect if upgrade to ITR(or like) rear brakes
Remove E-brake cable if upgrading to ITR (or like)
Remove Brake Bracket
Remove Rotor
Remove hub dust cap (with screw driver)
Remove 32mm Axle Nut
Remove hub washer

The bearing will most likely come part and one of the races will be still on the shaft, a little heat and pushing with the flat blade and it should move
Once everything is removed it should look like this


Now is a good time to take the bracket from the ITR (or like) brakes and trim the dust shield.

Installation

If for a track car press out studs and press in longer studs
Clean off shaft and place a little bit of lube on it
Slide Hub assembly on the shaft, you might have to tap it gently with a hammer to get it to go all the way
Screw on new Mazda Nut, do not reuse factory nut or the washer
Torque it down and bent over nut
At this point it should look something like this (you should have more brake shield)



Install Rotor, Brake Bracket, and Brake Caliper (Bleed Brakes, if you change caliper)


Install wheel (FYI 255/40 do fit just need some clearancing) RSX rear brake look small with 17inch wheels.


Repeat other side and have fun.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Other Just In case
 

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yeah i like this
could you list pricing as well? like rough estimate of total cost
 

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Discussion Starter #8
add cost into 2nd post still working on getting front finished.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Well the car is as far as it will relate to everyone just going to "Stock ITR", I am still waiting to have my Wilwood top hats redrilled and hub ring milled.

If you just want braking power doing the other brake setup is cheaper, but if you need better wider wheel selection 5 lug is they only way to go.

So far I have 1 set of 17x8 I got for under $300, with RA1. Working on a 2nd and 3rd set right now, and a cheap set for trailer tires. All said and done I should have 4 sets for under $1k, all with R-comp (take-offs).
 

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Just to add to your how to. Orielly's rents a front hub puller that can pop the hubs off the spindle. It attaches to three wheel studs and you twist stud with a wrench so that it presses on the axle and pops it off. It's a nice way to do it yourself for free. Excellent work as always!
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Would you be able to use the too remove the wheel bearing as well?
 

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Is doing the 5 lug conversion more cause you think its cool and theres diff wheels available or is there like a real reason of doing it?
Hr tracks the car and wanted to open up his options for a larger selection of sizes that a 4 lug set up doesnt offer.
 

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Oh Gotcha, i was always wondering if people did 5 lug conversions just to be like "hey bro check it out i got 5 lugs... Ooooooooo" haha
I'm sure most do. 5 lug rims are a dime a dozen unlike 4 lug. So guys who like to wheel ***** do it so they have a winder selection. But others like clueless do it for track reasons.
 
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