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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
1992 GSR-

So my PW went out a few months ago but since I just got my transmission and head put in I wanted to be able to ride around with the windows down. This morning I took it all apart and this is what I found.

1) Removed the motor assembly and applied power from alternate source- worked great. So did the my spare (nice to know)
2) rechecked the fuses, all were good.
3) checked the switch - everything lights up (with test light)
4) checked to see if power getting to the motor by checking the wires as close to the motor as possible- works good.

I'm stumped! is it a ground? Maybe not getting enough juice to make the motor run? Please let me know what else I can try...
 

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...not getting enough juice to make the motor run...
could be, or more like the motor is on its last leg, less power/torque or what have you.
I guess you can take off the one from the other side and try it/see only if its not chiral.
wait, is that even possible? dunno much technicals on modulators.
GL
 

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Sounds like the motor to me.I know I tested mine with a 18 volt drill battery and it would go up with no problem then with 12v from car barley make it up half way..Id be willing to bet its ur motor even though are model of cars are different its the same basic principle as far as the motors go...
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Thanks for the replys guys. I'm sure its not the motor- I partially installed the assembly and came indoors for some AC and to check here... before coming in I used the cars power to test the motor and it went up/down with no issues. I didn't complete the install (didn't attach the window bar) so can't report if in fact it is the motor (with the added weight of the glass).

BTW- just incase I put in my spare motor. I'm thinking its the master switch on the drivers side, I want to finish the passenger side motor and start cracking this mystery from the drivers side :rolleyes:
 

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1992 GSR-

4) checked to see if power getting to the motor by checking the wires as close to the motor as possible- works good.

I'm stumped! is it a ground? Maybe not getting enough juice to make the motor run?
When you check those wires were they getting 12V? Yes check and see if the master is shooting 12V close to the motor again
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
When you check those wires were they getting 12V? Yes check and see if the master is shooting 12V close to the motor again
I tested with a light- I'll have to find a volt meter and let u know. Right now the motor goes up/down when I bypass the switch
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I tested with a light- I'll have to find a volt meter and let u know. Right now the motor goes up/down when I bypass the switch

OK I reattached everything and lubed the teeth and window channels. When I bypass the switch (using power from inside the door) I get the window up and when I revers the polarity I get it down. I think its my switches. Still dont have a volt meter to check the switch. I'm going to put the door back together and see if the the switch decides to work, LOL... meanwhile I have to find some switches and hope there in good shape :rolleyes:
 

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On my car, the passenger side window is slow as hell when I use the drivers switch. If I use the passenger switch - it works great.

I'm thinking over-time the switch, wires, and grounds build up resistance.
Eventually I'd like to get RS door panels and crank windows. For security and weight :cool:
 

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Still dont have a volt meter to check the switch.
run to Home Depot/Lowes/Radio Shack and spend $10 on one.... until you have it, you cannot properly diagnose and you seem to be doing an awful lot of work and getting no where

Get the right tools to do the job
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
run to Home Depot/Lowes/Radio Shack and spend $10 on one.... until you have it, you cannot properly diagnose and you seem to be doing an awful lot of work and getting no where

Get the right tools to do the job
I'm on it, thanks

So I found my spare set of switches (thank god I pulled them from the JY 2 years back) does anyone have the schematics on all the switches? Like which pin does what?
 

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Great, thanks :cool:

Justin we should get together. Do you have the red GS-R I saw on CL?
Not a prob. I have access to all data and honda network (isis)

For sure man, I've got an Aztec Green GSR - I'm over here in Clermont. Been busting my ass on this car for a little over a year now, let me know if you need help with anything - I used to work at the honda dealer over here and i've still got a bunch of connections.

Hope this is what you need... If not, let me know

 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
thanks justin, wow thats 3 Aztec green DB2s in less than 40 miles... Eric in Kissimmee has one too :)

Do you know Steve in Casselberry with the red DA?
 

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thanks justin, wow thats 3 Aztec green DB2s in less than 40 miles... Eric in Kissimmee has one too :)

Do you know Steve in Casselberry with the red DA?
Nice, no I haven't seen any in a while.
I remember seeing an aztec green db2 around 192/I4 area earlier this year. We should all get together sometime.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Nice, no I haven't seen any in a while.
I remember seeing an aztec green db2 around 192/I4 area earlier this year. We should all get together sometime.

If it was an all aztec green DB2 then that was Eric. Mine was painted black on the top (2 tone) by the previous owner but then he had an accident- I replaced the hood and fender with white parts so its a hodge-podge of colors. Call me 922 o54O

Mike

BTW I'm heading to Erics is a bit to get my AC charged. I'll snap some pics :D
 

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On my 92 GSR, the passenger window will only go down from the driver's master switch, but not up. But, if I reach across and use the passenger switch, it goes up and down fine. That tells me the motor and wiring are fine, it is just a bad contact for the "up" on the driver side master switch.

I have not repaired it yet, but I am 100% confident a replacement switch will solve the problem.

Things that demand a fair amount of current can mislead you. I will not be surprised to find that a voltmeter will show the motor to be getting voltage. But a voltmeter is not a load in this regard. If the current is not really there, then the voltage reading can mislead you.

It is the same with the car's starter. If you have a bad resistive connection at the battery posts, you may read voltage anywhere along the cable, but when that high current starter demands the amps... the corroded battery posts kill the current, and no cranking.

A window motor does not demand as much current as the starter, but the principle is the same. Bad contacts in the switch can have the same effect as a dirty corroded connection.
 

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A user on a different forum claimed that the molex connectors of old Hondas inside the door panels are prone to corrosion, and that electrical contact cleaners solve such problems.

Other than that routing and crimping wire directly to the motor from an aftermarket universal switch is rational solution, given how old these cars are and inability to buy new OEM switches.
 
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