Yesterday, while I was washing my car I noticed these small orange dots on the doors moslty, but also on the front fenders and other places. They are very small like the size of a period ( . ) Anyone know what they are and how to take them off. Some came off after I rubbed hard enough with the sponge. Thanks
orange spots on car
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That is what is called Industrial Fallout. Do a search on it here. We have discussed it several times. Its something that happens when little pieces of metal from either polution or brake dust or something like that gets on your paint. It melts into your clear coat and rusts. That is what the orange dots are. You can clean off the rust stains with paint cleaner but the contamination will still be there. You need clay to remove the contamination.
sorry but nothing comes up when i search for Industrial Fallout. I tried just industrial and also just fallout but still nothing comes up.
thanks Furious94LS, i'll have to go buy a clay bar and Klasse
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search under 'IFO' as well. It commonly called IFO. I don't know why industrial fallout doesn't bring up any search results. I call it that everytime I post on it. I even called it that in a post earlier today. Weird... anyway, Chris is right. Clean it off and clay it. That's how you solve IFO.
Everybody gets IFO on their car. People with red or black cars usually have it the worst because its harder to see. People with white cars spot it right away. Even the blue cars can't hide it very well. The only way to protect yourself is to seal the paint and clean it often. A sealant won't stop IFO, but it will create a surface that is slicker than normal and most contaminents will wash off without settling into the paint. Its a fact that a car with even a coat of wax on it will have better protection against IFO than a car with nothing.
Everybody gets IFO on their car. People with red or black cars usually have it the worst because its harder to see. People with white cars spot it right away. Even the blue cars can't hide it very well. The only way to protect yourself is to seal the paint and clean it often. A sealant won't stop IFO, but it will create a surface that is slicker than normal and most contaminents will wash off without settling into the paint. Its a fact that a car with even a coat of wax on it will have better protection against IFO than a car with nothing.
The day I took my Isle green pearl teg home WOW it has so much on the back. I went through one entire piece of clay to remove it. It came out great after the Klasse.
I learned something new on this thread. Thanks.
thanks guys, i thought at first it was rust..that would suck. Would you guys know if I can buy the Klasse products at some store or it can only be order???
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You can't get Klasse in stores. Order from our sponsor premiumautocare.com. They carry it. You want the All in one (AIO) product. You can get the clay there too if you want. While you are at it, you should pick up some 4 Star Ultimate Paint Protection (UPP) and some microfiber towels. As long as you are on your way to getting fine car care products then you might as well go all the way, eh?
I've read a few threads and people recommend the AIO and SG. If I get those would I still need the 4 star UPP? Is there a certain clay bar I should buy?And what would be the steps i would take in taking these spots off?
I already have the microfiber towels...used them for the first time yesterday and lets just say I'm never using anything else but those towels.
I already have the microfiber towels...used them for the first time yesterday and lets just say I'm never using anything else but those towels.
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SG works too. Its a little more durable than UPP, but if you plan on taking care of your car often like you are supposed to then it shouldn't make much difference. UPP gives more of a deep wet look while SG is more of a hard polished rock shine. They are both awesome so you can't really go wrong with either one.
As far as claying goes, you just lubricate the surface and glide the clay along the car. I'm pretty sure you'll be able to find something about that process around here somewhere. I don't even bother drying the car off very well after I rinse it when I know I'm going to clay. I just use the water on the surface as extra lubricant. It works great. Then you just wash the car again when you are done. You'll see why when you are finished.
Clay Magic is my clay of choice. You can get it at AutoZone usually. The 100 gram bar with a bottle of lubricant is usually about 10 bucks. Don't use the whole bar at once, though. A 100 gram size bar will easily break into 3 or 4 useable sized chunks. If you drop the clay on the ground then you need to throw it away. Any little rocks or abrasive particles that are picked up will wreck your paint. If you drop a 10 dollar chunk of clay then it could get expensive for you to clay your car. So just break them off into pieces so its no great loss if you should drop it.
Remember to glide the clay in straight lines in the same direction the air moves over your car. (front to back) That's a big thing. And check the clay often. If you get a piece of sap stuck in the clay then it could cause problems. Not likely, but its possible.
Like I said before, I'm sure you will find more detailed 'how to' on this in the articles or on other threads, but hopefully this is enough to get you started.
As far as claying goes, you just lubricate the surface and glide the clay along the car. I'm pretty sure you'll be able to find something about that process around here somewhere. I don't even bother drying the car off very well after I rinse it when I know I'm going to clay. I just use the water on the surface as extra lubricant. It works great. Then you just wash the car again when you are done. You'll see why when you are finished.
Clay Magic is my clay of choice. You can get it at AutoZone usually. The 100 gram bar with a bottle of lubricant is usually about 10 bucks. Don't use the whole bar at once, though. A 100 gram size bar will easily break into 3 or 4 useable sized chunks. If you drop the clay on the ground then you need to throw it away. Any little rocks or abrasive particles that are picked up will wreck your paint. If you drop a 10 dollar chunk of clay then it could get expensive for you to clay your car. So just break them off into pieces so its no great loss if you should drop it.
Remember to glide the clay in straight lines in the same direction the air moves over your car. (front to back) That's a big thing. And check the clay often. If you get a piece of sap stuck in the clay then it could cause problems. Not likely, but its possible.
Like I said before, I'm sure you will find more detailed 'how to' on this in the articles or on other threads, but hopefully this is enough to get you started.
thanks alot...it is very helpful!!!!
After i use the clay i would wash the car then would I use the AIO and after that use SG or UPP (if i decide to go with UPP)??
After i use the clay i would wash the car then would I use the AIO and after that use SG or UPP (if i decide to go with UPP)??
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After you clay and wash again then you would use the AIO. AIO is a cleaner and a base for another sealant. SG or UPP would be excellent choices. I use 3 layers of UPP on my car for shows. It looks awesome.
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