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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
** DIY PAINTED KIT INSTALLED :) **

Well I finally installed the kit this past saturday with my dad. Kit went on pretty easily... not too difficult just took some time.

Here's the pics of the final results:
Day I installed (car not washed):


Rear shot:


I got to clean the car and look at her shine :) woo hoo :)





this pic shows the paint match... great for DIY painting :)


** END UPDATE **


** UPDATE 2 - KIT COMPOUNDED **

So i went about and used rubbing compound on my kit, and 3m swirl remover afterwards. All i have to say... amazing results on the one rear valence i've done so far...

Valence on left is not compounded, valence on the right is compounded and swirl remover put on afterwards... all i can say is wow :O


different shot of the treated/untreated valence:


close up of untreated valence:


close up of treated valence:


all i can say is wow and i will be doing this process to all the parts now of the kit i painted and it should look amazing :)

let me know what you think

** END UPDATE 2 **


** UPDATE - OEM KIT DIY PAINTED - STEPS AND PICS BELOW **

2 coats of green on the rear valence:


closer shot of rear valence painted:


rear valences drying with clear coat on it:


closer shot of rears clear coated:


oem lip with clear drying and side skirts with only basecoat:


front lip with clear:


another shot of the lip:


shot of sides with clear on it:


pic of lip quickly put on car to see color match:


another view of lip on car:


side shot with some light hitting it:


another pic of the lip:


pic of all parts:


pics of side skirts held in place :p


rear valence in place:


** END UPDATE **


Hey Everyone,

I've got my OEM kit and i've decided to give a run at painting the parts myself as well as my side moldings. I have some paint experience and will be doing this with a rattle can that I am looking to get mixed by a local shop.

Here are my steps:

OEM Kit:
Wet sand 320/400 grit sandpaper
Prime with Duplicolor Sandable Black Primper (3 coats)
Wet sand primer (600 grit)
Color (g95P - clover green pearl) (3 coats)
Clear coat (3 coats)
Allow to cure

Apply rubbing compound and swirl remover?
Wax after 30-60 days


Moldings:
Wet sand 600, 1000,
Add plastic adhesion promotor (# coats?)
Prime with flex additive (5-7 coats)
Wet sand (1000-1500)
Color (g95P - clover green pearl) with flex additive (3-5 coats?)
Wet sand color???
Clear coat (3 coats)
Allow to cure and wet sand at 1500
Buff with polish, add glaze and wax
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
oh i think i know why... i think the canadian SE is different than the american SE... i think you guys still might have had a 99 RS in the states? and we didnt... not sure though... ahhaha

but yeah we didnt get them painted up here :( and now i have the hassle to paint em ahah
 

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yes, the canadian SE's all have black moldings, no paint. all years have had an LS, RS, GSR trim in the USA. RS is base model here.
 

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ohh i dint even notice the location. anyways. good luck on the diy project.

i painted my side moldings myself. came out really good. then went thru winter and one side skirt got swiped in my accident. time to repaint mine as well.
 

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your going above n beyond wat i did. all i did was clean mine. primer, color, and clear. and i think they came out pretty decent.
 

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By Flex additive do you mean the color-shifting paint? Just wondering 'cause I work at that company and used to work in that dept...
 

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naah... flex additive will allow your paint to flex on rubber or plastic parts, so if you bump your moldings, it wont crack as easily, it will flex.

they use this on bumpers mostly... and pretty much most painted plastic parts
 

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you gotta be easy on the primer. primer cracks just like body filler. you got everything right but , primer is only really needed to cover body filler, as where body filler well soak the paint.

but for your moldings you are correct. flex should be added into the paint and or primer. as high quality paint is already flexible enough. but which ever way you feel comfortable.

you sound like you have been thru all this a number of times.

only peeve i have is the so many coats of primer. wet sandingthe guide coat is the only step your missing.

haha i forgot its little pieces and not long smooth panels hah. guide coat is not needed!

good luck and have much fun
 

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I just finished polishing and wetsanding my entire car after a repaint so I'll add a little on that part of it.

I wetsanded after 3 coats of clear with Meguiar's 2000 unigrit. I followed that up with #84 Compound Power cleaner with a burgandy pad, #83 DACP with a burgandy pad, #83 with a polishing pad, then #80 Speed glaze with a light polishing pad. All with a Dewalt 849 rotary between 1800 and 2200 rpms.

If you're going to go with the 1500 I'd go with #85 Diamond Cut or what ever heavy cut compound you choose, and a wool pad.

If you have the time I'd sand the base coat as well. After wetsanding and polishing my car is noticably better looking. However, there are still some waves or orange peel that aren't in the clear coat that I notice. Wetsanding the base coat would have helped

Don't wax the parts after painting. The paint should be allowed to cure for 30-90 days. The glaze will be fine. It won't offer any protection but will keep it looking good.

The nice thing about the #80 Speed Glaze is that besides having light polishing ability, it contains a new paint safe polymer that will protect like a wax until curing.

Let us know how it goes. Your experience would benefit all of us.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
ok i've begun this project... slowly after work and some time i've had on weekends in between all the rain...

only so far begun sanding... i've sanded the front lip and rear valences... will be doing the side skirts possibly tomorrow... here's some pics of what i started

OEM Lip in burning red pearl before sanding:


my weapons of attack lol wet sand with 320 grit adn 400 grit wet/dry sandpaper


up close shot of the lip paint untouched:


lip all sanded with white residue from wet sanding


rear valences untouched:


one valences sanded... one not:


closer shot of one sanded and one not:


both valences sanded:


will keep everyone updated once i sand the side skirts... and i'll have updated pics once i prime the kit...
 

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I have a few suggestions i might add...

- dont sand the paint (color) -- it is not necessary and will destroy the alignment of flake in the paint if there is one.

-finish sanding the clear with a 2000 grit wet before buffing, it will make your work a lot easier, start with either 1000 and work up to 1500, or just start with 1500 if you don't need 1000.

- I wouldn't sand up to 1000 before spraying color, 600 is what i would recommend, as you are sanding to allow the paint to have something to grab onto, and 1000 isn't quite enough IMO.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
yeah i was thinking that sanding the basecoat on the clover green would make the pearl not look right and have decided im just going to paint the basecoat, let it dry and clear it the same day ( a few hrs later )...

yeah i've been reading that 600 is all you should sand the primer to and then basecoat... somewhere I read to do it to 1000 and thats why I was going to do that... but from my new readings i've found most say sanding and painting at 600 sanded primer is the way to go... so I think I will try that...

as for sanding the clear... i will see how it feels and how much I think I need to sand and what grit I should start with... i will be doing it very lightly and will see how good i do the clear... (if its very wavy then i will start with the 1000 grit but if it isnt i will start with even higher like you suggested - 1500)... but that will be from how my eyes sees it...

as for buffing it any products recommended to doing it by hand?? i know it takes longer but I dont have any buffing tools and would like to do it by hand... and something preferably I could find off the shelf maybe...??
 
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