Team Integra Forums banner
1 - 16 of 16 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
13 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
It's a 92 civic with GSR swap. car sat for years. Car was cranking but was not starting, so i took the engine out and did i changed rear main seal, transmission oil, Oil pan gasket , Engine oil, oil filter, water pump, timing belt, spark plugs, fuel lines and brake lines. Sent out my ECu to get benched tested; turn out it was all good. When i dropped the engine back it, it continue to have no start problem, and now it won't even crank. IT DOES crank if i jump the starter. I tried starting the car while jumping the starter, but i have no spark. I replaced the ICM, Ignition Coil, and the Dizzy Cap. Still no spark , but I can feel the Spark plug wire Tube Pulsing. I checked all my fuses and they were good. Also i replaced brake fluid and Clutch fluid. Could bleeding the clutch line have something to do with it? since the pedal was all the way down on the floor (I know theres a rubber on top of the pedal). I"m gonna try The crank sensor tomorrow since When i crank it the speedometer jumps.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
31 Posts
Did it run previously with this swap?

What injectors are you using?

What ecu are you using?

You dont have an actual crank sensor unless you converted to obd2 harness and ecu.

Is the fuel pump priming?


Have you checked your main relay?


Sent from my SM-G960U1 using Tapatalk
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
13 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Yeah it ran fine Then it sat in a garage where it gets over 100 degrees in the summer, there was bunch of acorns and sunflower seeds under the front seats and side panels. As far as injectors, I'm not 100% sure but i think they are stock with aem fuel rail. No fuel filter. But i do have a fuel pressure guage and when i jump the starter and crank there's fuel pressure. Im running OBD1 P72 hondata s300 v3. I bought a new Main Relay and nothing changed, so i returned it. I sent my ECU out to Burton-racing to get it bench tested because my fuel pump was not priming (Even after i replaced it with new one,). It was priming when i jumped 5 and 7 On main relay but no priming when 1 and 7 was Jumped. They said nothing was wrong with the ECU but replaced IC17 chip just because of my No prime problem. Got it back and When i turn the key on On position fuel pump primes continuously. When i was doing the timing belt and water pump behind the gear there's a black wire i though that was the Crankshaft sensor?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
31 Posts
Yeah it ran fine Then it sat in a garage where it gets over 100 degrees in the summer, there was bunch of acorns and sunflower seeds under the front seats and side panels. As far as injectors, I'm not 100% sure but i think they are stock with aem fuel rail. No fuel filter. But i do have a fuel pressure guage and when i jump the starter and crank there's fuel pressure. Ecu Im running OBD1 P72 hondata s300 v3. I bought a new Relay and nothing changed, so i returned it. I sent my ECU out to Burton-racing to get it bench tested because my fuel pump was not priming (Even after i replaced it with new one,). It was priming when i jumped 5 and 7 On main relay but no priming when 1 and 7 was Jumped. They said nothing was wrong with the ECU but replaced IC17 chip just because of my No prime problem. Got it back and When i turn the key on On position fuel pump primes continuously. When i was doing the timing belt and water pump behind the gear there's a black wire i though that was the Crankshaft sensor?
Yes but your car(harness) and ecu don't have the capability of using that sensor. Those came on obd2(b) vehicles.

I'd start looking for a cut wire unfortunately as it sounds like the mice got to it.

Sent from my SM-G960U1 using Tapatalk
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
13 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Damn i didn't know that OBD1 doesn't read the crank sensor , saved me 130$. I got tucked engine harness, so the wire problem probably will be inside the cabin somewhere.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
13 Posts
Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Yah I did that. They were good, but I sanded them anyway. I get .8 ohms on coil and 15 ohms on secondary. I'm getting 12 v to igniter and coil spring. When I crank my test light was not blinking as it should. Which means bad igniter but I used a new one so it's not that. I'm also not getting a spark to the coil spring when cranking. So I'm narrowing it down to having open circuit
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5 Posts
Yah I did that. They were good, but I sanded them anyway. I get .8 ohms on coil and 15 ohms on secondary. I'm getting 12 v to igniter and coil spring. When I crank my test light was not blinking as it should. Which means bad igniter but I used a new one so it's not that. I'm also not getting a spark to the coil spring when cranking. So I'm narrowing it down to having open circuit
You said you benchtested your ECM, have you checked to make sure that the ECM is getting power at the IGP1 & IGP2 pins?
Edit: Also, do you have fuel/hear the fuel pump prime? Never mind. Just read that you jumped pins 5 - 7 and pump primed.

Edit 2: do you have battery voltage at pin 1 on the main relay connector harness?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
13 Posts
Discussion Starter · #12 ·
It primed only when I jumped 5 & 7 before I send my ecu to get bench tested. They replaced ic17 chip and now it primes normal.
I have not checked the voltage on igp 1.and 2. I'm assuming they have to be 12v?
Battery voltage on main relay with key turned to on or constant 12v? I'll check all this tomorow
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
13 Posts
Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Today i plugged in my laptop to see if any error codes would show up on s300 - none. I Checked IGP 1 and IGP 2 and #1 on main relay for power - they are good. I also measured the Ohms on the CPK in distributor it was out of range. suppose to be between 350 - 750 ohms; mine was 335 ohms. I'm gonna buy a whole new distributor i think those sensors in the distributor are no good.
 
1 - 16 of 16 Posts
Top