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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey guys,
Well, another $50 out of my teg fund went into maintenance instead of other mods...the front brake pads
but thats alright. I was jsut wondering what is the correct procedure to break in new brake pads to make sure they set in nicely. I have heard about it but wasn't sure entirely since this is my first time dealing with the teg's brake system. Btw the install was a piece of cake. 4 bolts
gotta love Honda.
 

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Some people have a very specific way to break in their pads, depending on what pads are being used. I remember I posted awhile ago on how Cobalt suggested I break in my Axxis pads but I can't find the post right now.

But generally for performance pads you do about five 60-5mph slow downs (don't stop) in a row, each time with increasing force until you do it so hard that the ABS activates. Then just drive for about 10 minutes to allow everything to cool down. Depending on what pad you are using they should be good to go after that, if they are a tougher/higher heat pad then you may want to do it a second time after the 10 minute cool down.
 

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Unless they are a performance pad you really dont really break them in. The Carbotech Panther XPs recommended 5 60mph-10mph stops and 5 60mph-0mph, then allow them to cool by a few minutes of non-brake driving.
 

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For stock pads, it is recomended not to do any heavy or "panic" braking for 2-300 miles. Especially if the rotors were resurfaced or replaced. Drive moderatly.

If you have performance pads follow the guys above posts.
 

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acurasquirrel on Apr/08/04 said:
Unless they are a performance pad you really dont really break them in. The Carbotech Panther XPs recommended 5 60mph-10mph stops and 5 60mph-0mph, then allow them to cool by a few minutes of non-brake driving.
never come to a complete stop while breaking in pads, unless you want warped rotars.
 

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I was just about to post this exact question, thanks alvin.

When do you generally replace the pads? The reason I ask is because I plan to go autoxing in two days but I'm not sure if I need to replace the pads or not. If I do, I guess one day wouldn't be enough time to break them in right?
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
No problem Ben, thanks everyone for replying.

I replaced my pad because they were worn down and the metal piece that indicates the pads are worn were touching the rotor and making noise. When I heard that I stop driving my car and parked her home til yesterday when I bought new pads.
 

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I too am left wondering. Anyone know of a good pad.... that wont dust so much? I had axxis metal masters first, they dust, and grab.... now ive got axxis ultimates, and they stop like no other, but dust worse then ive ever seen.
 

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In 1996, when I was 16, I did the following to my '79 5-Series.

-Purchased remanufactured 4-pot '88 M5 calipers for all corners.
-Installed new OEM ATE M5 rotors (huge, all 4 were vented)
-Slipped in some PBR Metal Master pads
-Installed hardware kit

About 3 miles into my initial test drive, I started to get heavy fade. I was frustrated, so I kept pushing the brakes harder and harder. Pretty soon I was getting intense fade, and smoke coming from the front wheels! When I got out to inspect the smoke, the front brakes were on fire! Ahhh! I had to put the fire out with an extinguisher.

I had the car towed to my mechanic's shop. When we looked at the car, I learned that I had warped my new rotors, funked my pads, and melted my new calipers' seals (front only).

We're not sure what caused the problem... It's not like I cleaned the packing materials off with gasoline. I can only guess that the cause was lack of proper break in procedure. I am still not sure what was on fire... does brake fluid burn?

In any event, when I got new stuff, I used PBR Metal Masters again, which I really liked--they wore like iron, didn't require "warm up" and always scrubbed the rotors shiney!

I'd be willing to bet that I'm the only T-I member that's actually managed to get their brakes to spontaneously combust! :)
 

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i've got a pretty long commute to/from school that is pretty early in the morning. i did my brake-in on my R4S pads my first time out with it. plenty of room to do 60-5... 90-20... after 4-5 of each there didn't appear to be any fading present. went to an autocross event and didn't get any fade.

i should also not that i cut a little off my new rotors and crosshatched them to ensure that they were nice and straight since they were cheap-o napa rotors.
 

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Just commenting cause I think its sweet that there are other people out there with Teg Funds. And I just busted into mine for all new rotors, and pads all the way around. but its ok the funds will get back on track.
 

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What does "fading" mean?

I changed my brake pads with stock pads and drove about 150 miles (freeway). Then I took my car autocrossing. Could I have damaged my rotor or brake pads since I didn't break them in?

Thanks in advance.
 

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i just put my GreenStuff pads on my rears with new rotors... i followed the break-in instruction on the pads box. it says from 40mph to 5, increasingly harder for 5 times... 1 minute intervals between braking.
 
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