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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So I’m getting ready to create my Turbo VTec, b18b block with a b18c1 head with type R cams

I have everything for the head, so that’s fine

but I need suggestions and help finding what I’m missing for my block
I have a b18b block that burns oil like crazy, I’m using this motor to rebuild because my other block is gonna be saved as a spare as it runs perfectly and doesn’t burn a drop.

I want a full rebuild all seals and bearings you guys suggest, only thing I plan to keep is the crank (but I’m open to suggestions)
So far this is what I have found

1.Eagle Specialty Products CRS5630H3D 5.63" 4340 Forged H-Beam Connecting Rod Set for Honda

2. B16 / B17 / B18 Block Guard

3.Golden Eagle B-series VTEC Conversion Kit (Full)

4.CP Pistons SC7009 B Series 83mm Bore, 10.0:1 Sleeved B18/B20 Block w/B16A or B18C Head

Any body got links to maybe a master kit with Everything?
Send me any and all suggestions I want this motor perfect for my build and I’m building it Myself

I know I’m missing things help me out , thanks
 

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Stay away from a block guard. Period. These were a band-aid solution back in the early 2000's since there was no cylinder support system, and sleeving was waaaaaay expensive and only used with racing teams.

The two problems with block guards:

1. Engine Overheating
If they don't have channels to allow coolant to flow up to the head and close the deck, the upper part of the cylinder will heat up causing engine overheating and head gasket failures.

2. Distortion of the cylinder and the cylinders become oval or not round any longer. As you press in the blockguard , the contact points against the outer cylinder wall aren't the same. the uneven pressing distorts the cylinder.


Really, to fully answer any questions that you have, it would really help to know what your power goals are. Knowing this can help myself and others suggest a path for you.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Stay away from a block guard. Period. These were a band-aid solution back in the early 2000's since there was no cylinder support system, and sleeving was waaaaaay expensive and only used with racing teams.

The two problems with block guards:

1. Engine Overheating
If they don't have channels to allow coolant to flow up to the head and close the deck, the upper part of the cylinder will heat up causing engine overheating and head gasket failures.

2. Distortion of the cylinder and the cylinders become oval or not round any longer. As you press in the blockguard , the contact points against the outer cylinder wall aren't the same. the uneven pressing distorts the cylinder.


Really, to fully answer any questions that you have, it would really help to know what your power goals are. Knowing this can help myself and others suggest a path for you.
thank you this is exactly what I heard from a friend but wasn’t sure on how true it was,
So I’ll avoid the block guard, and my power goals are a little over 400 HP, not ever going to see a track, it’s a 94 shell with a rebuilt Gsr transmission. Hx35 turbo, precision wastegate, tile blow off valve, skunk 2 66mm throttle body, edelbrock vector x intake , 1320 turbo manifold and down pipe ,Grimm speed manual boost controller(might switch to electronic) ID 1050 injectors, type R cams, VTEC Gsr head all rebuilt. Walboro in line high pressure fuel pump, Neptune chip going to be tuned by them professionally, street tires no drags or super wides or anything. From what I’ve heard 400 with this setup is achievable but I wouldn’t be surprised if I was under. Lmk any other questions thank you
 

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I would use more than a Neptune chip. Look into the demon2 board. 400 on street tires may be too much for a fwd that light unless you can take advantage of boost by gear in order to maintain traction. But no matter what, go to a tuner and get on a Dyno.
 
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