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10 Posts
Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Hey y'all,

I've been doing a bit of researching, but just wanted some more clarity/help here in 2019 lol. If you guys can help me, that'd be great. Most of the threads I've read, folks are shooting for 300+, which I don't really care to go for. I mainly just want that extra kick, as well as the fun sounds for my daily.

I currently have a stock 98' GS, just threw on a fresh head gasket/timing belt/etc. Have always wanted to turbo, and finally the window is opening to where I can do it.

My power goal, I want to shoot for 180-200WHP. I know our B18B1's can do more, but I feel like that number is the sweet spot for every day driving, and the occasional heavy foot for a smile.

I'll be using an oil sandwich plate for the feed, as well as a OEM oil pan w/ the bung welded on.

Main questions are -

Turbo size, which one do I get? Tried watching YouTube videos on the compressor housing and all that, I'm still lost lol.

- People at car meets and what not, always tell me, "you're fine with a t3/t4 turbo if you want that power." That's fine and all, but what size? Isn't t3/t4 just the flange size?

- I'm assuming something small for a quick spool will work for my application correct?

- For the feed line to the turbo (depending on turbo), would I need a restrictor fitting? I've read about some folks not running them and blowing their turbo seals out.

-- For wastegate, I'm aiming at a TiAL MV\S or F38, will also do TiAL BOV as well
-- Piping/Intercooler, will be eBay
-- Manifold will be some cast iron from Go-Autoworks or whichever reputable brand falls into my lap (will be removing AC to save from headaches)

Fuel -
- Plan on running a Walbro 255LPH fuel pump
- 310cc/370cc injectors fine? Looking at RC Engineering injectors

Engine Management -
- Since my engine is OBD2a, I'll be needing an OBD2 -> OBD1 conversion harness right?

- As for ECU, I believe I can just use a P72 ECU chipped with..., which brings me to-

- Which is the preferred tuning option for my application? Is Crome just fine? Or is the Hondata S300 the coveted one here?

I think that answers all of my questions. Thanks in advance.

689 Posts
Turbo: Get an entry level turbocharger by Precision 4831B MFS (

Don't use an oil restrictor.

Tial BOV and either type of the wastegate you listed would work.

Piping from Ebay will work, but may need some work to make it fit.

Cast iron manifold will work. Get one with the wastegate port between 2nd and 3rd runners: (Go Autoworks Honda / Acura B Series Cast Iron Turbo Manifold)

Walbro 255 will work.

Get 370cc RC Injectors

Correct, you will need OBD2 to OBD1 conversion harness.

P28 or P72 chipped

Tune on Crome will be just fine, but Hondata S300 would be my personal preference.

Here is more info you may want to read:

32 Posts
I’m in the same boat as you right now bud, just with a little higher power goal. I’m interested in what people have to say for this. Keep me updated on your build if you can please!! I also have a question: when using the obd2 to obd1 conversion harness, will I obd2 injectors still work with the ecu?

8 Posts
It's nuts cause I'm also In the same boat ... I'm getting into a 98 ls. For now I just want to make it run reliable. I want to swap the engine to a b18c, mostly cause the car currently has over 200k miles. My goal is about 200hp

95 Posts
It really depends on cost. This is all my opinion of course.

I'm super cheap, but also like to have fun. I'm running a B17A1 (92-93 GSR) in a '94 GSR car. Long story lol.

I like to make room to make more power later...upgraded components are not really much more, and the old tunability issues are not a huge deal anymore. For example, I'd go with a 500cc or so injector. I recommend high impedance injectors rather than the low impedance/resistor route. Simpler and better response imho. I ran the stock fuel pump initially, but it sucks. Walbro 255 is sufficient. I run one...pretty well understood and good upgrade.

What I did was buy a used EVO8 turbo off ebay. I wouldn't suggest this route though, even though it's been a good performer. The reason is the twin scroll design. It's awesome, but there are not any aftermarket parts available that I've found that I like. For me, it's not a big deal, because I tig weld and always wanted to make my own manifiold etc.

So, the Garrett T3/T4 hybrid equipment is the popular way to go. VERY popular. Lotsa parts. Inexpensive parts.

You can easily achieve your goal with a T3/T4...I'd do a .48 turbine wheel and a 50 compressor wheel. That should get you to 250+ hp if you want to increase later. This would give you quick spool and decent airflow. As you climb past 250hp the .48 turbine will be limiting your efficiency due to backpressure. Many have had success with ebay turbos, although return may vary.

You could go with a .63 turbine, which will let the exhaust breathe easier, at the expense of spool. Don't do this if you don't plan to run higher boost.

Use a log manifold but make sure the wastegate vents from all the cylinders (Center mount), not just a couple.

You may be able to retain your full size radiator with this setup. I did with my custom manifold, but it was tight. I highly recommend the full size rad. Just better cooling vs the half rad, especially if you retain AC etc. Rads work better with more surface area vs more thickness.

I went cheap on the bov--it's a hks knockoff from ebay and works well.

I went cheap on the intercooler/piping. EBAY special. Works great according to my IAT sensor. Due to my custom install I had to modify the piping a bit to work. You will likely have to do the same, unless the intercooler/piping kit are matched to the turbo and the manifold (IE: Placement). Again, I tig weld so for me this was easy. Any tig welder should be able to modify it pretty easily though. Make the fitup as good as you can, then take it over.

I used cheap silicone couplers and band clamps from ebay. The ones I got are great.

Use Vbands/flanges on the exhaust as much as possible. It makes things sooooo much easier. Incorporate as much flex as you can into the exhaust fittings to prevent cracking (IE: if the wastegate is a direct mount, add a flex coupling before it integrates back into the exhaust pipe, or simply run a dump pipe (Not connection to the exhaust pipe).

I also went cheap on the wastegate...but I have also rebuilt it once. Spend the $$ on this one. 38ish mm is fine. Bigger is not always better here.

Get Hondata 300. I modified the ECM to 'chip ready' myself, but I have experience in doing soldering work. It's not hard really. It's worth it though. Just the best and also great support, both from the company and the extensive user group. I was lucky to have a OBD1 ECM given the year of my car.

Get Wideband O2. There are lots to choose from. I went with Zeitronix and have been a happy user.

That's all I got.

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