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Discussion Starter · #21 ·
The hoses in the back is both blow-by (crankcase pressure) and oil. Pressure in the crankcase will naturally cause oil to also be pushed out. Because the ports on the breather can are on the bottom, any oil that gets pushed out will also naturally flow back into the block via gravity.

And yes....#2 is what you should be doing.
Ohhhh... Okay.. Well in that case, IMO I don't think I'd ever run hoses to the actual crankcase, if I really wanted extra blowby plus the oil to return to engine, I'd just run 4 hoses to valve cover to can, then one or 2 hoses to the oil pan or filter or anywhere that can receive oil that doesn't have blowby pressure so it's strictly only going into oil system. But everyone is different and as I learn more maybe I'll end up changing my mind lol. Well sorry for this ridiculous convo and being patient with me and this misunderstanding, really appreciate the help! Most people would of gotten mad by now and tell me to go F myself and do more research, which I've done TONS of on these and still obviously learning lol. But thanks to you once again, I know what to do馃榿馃憤 Sounds like I'm going up to the shop rn to make some changes before I get this towed to the tune! Appreciate it man, wish me luck. I'll lyk the results and how it goes!
 

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Ohhhh... Okay.. Well in that case, IMO I don't think I'd ever run hoses to the actual crankcase, if I really wanted extra blowby plus the oil to return to engine, I'd just run 4 hoses to valve cover to can, then one or 2 hoses to the oil pan or filter or anywhere that can receive oil that doesn't have blowby pressure so it's strictly only going into oil system.
No.

The crankcase is the block. This is where you need to relieve the crankcase pressure the most, or at the valve cover....or both. You do NOT want blow-by to return to the engine. This is what you're attempting to get rid of.

The area under the valve cover and the crankcase (block) are all connected. These aren't separated. If they were, oil wouldn't be able to get to the cylinder head. Anywhere there's oil, there's crankcase pressure (blow-by), including the cylinder head. I keep seeing you reference blow-by pressure vs the oil system. It's all the same.

Running your hoses to the block is the easiest and most efficient way of reducing crankcase pressure.
 

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Discussion Starter · #23 ·
No.

The crankcase is the block. This is where you need to relieve the crankcase pressure the most, or at the valve cover....or both. You do NOT want blow-by to return to the engine. This is what you're attempting to get rid of.

The area under the valve cover and the crankcase (block) are all connected. These aren't separated. If they were, oil wouldn't be able to get to the cylinder head. Anywhere there's oil, there's crankcase pressure (blow-by), including the cylinder head. I keep seeing you reference blow-by pressure vs the oil system. It's all the same.

Running your hoses to the block is the easiest and most efficient way of reducing crankcase pressure.
Well what I meant by is if ever want extra crankcase pressure ventilation via using catch can going to one or the other then I'd just use the valve cover if it's efficient enough. Idk why the hell I said blowby right there lol. I just meant like if I wanted more than 2 hoses going to can from valve cover only, I'd just put 2 more on the other side of valve cover cus I figured it's easier to tap a hole and weld a fitting there rather than the crankcase block. But if it really isn't that hard then I'm sure later down the road if it seems like im not getting enough from just 2 hoses on VC than I'll give it a shot. I'll watch some videos of people doing the whole process. Thanks thou bro, really appreciate your time patience and helping me out.
 

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Discussion Starter · #24 ·
Hey so few more things while we're here. As of now until I have the time to drill my own holes for the - AN fittings on the side of VC, I have one hose coming from breather neck and other from pcv valve on top and I'm using the oem pcv check valve to connect the hose going to can. I know it's a one way valve so air can only go one way and I know I have it to where it'll go to my can and it's not backwards, but does this restrict the flow enough to make a difference to where I should use a 90掳 inlet into the pcv hole that is completely hollow on the inside? Like a hollow brass fitting or rubber angled one that my hose can clamp onto? I mean I much rather use something hollow on the inside for better flow but the rubber one I bought is just slightly not thick enough for a tight fit in the hole.. Guess I could get ghetto and throw some tape around the end to make it more snug and air tight plus prevent it from getting blown out from the pressure if there's enough.. I'll take some pics of what I got that I could use to replace the pcv valve that I almost used.
 

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Discussion Starter · #26 ·
Hey sorry been very busy with the build and getting her finished and on the road finally. On this subject I ended up bugging the intake inlet on mani that went to pcv. Tried using few different ghetto angle fittings that my hose will clamp on and go to can along with breather neck hose going to can, but the fittings I was using in the pcv hole in the valve cover just weren't seeling completely and was getting blowby and bits oil spit onto my cover, so I went back to using the pcv check valve with hose clamped on going to can for now until I make real legit fittings on the side with -an fittings. Drilled a hole in the top and put filter on can for ventilation. So pretty much I'm using top pcv hole port and breather port going to my can for now and seems to be working fine temporarily.
 

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Discussion Starter · #27 ·
Definitely gonna work on the KISS method more often lol. I over think things a lot.. Anyway as for the tune and how it's running now it's so much better! Put out way more power than I expected. It's been on 5psi for the first 500miles and once we got it dialed in, we threw in another spring and put the boost cut at 18psi expecting it to get close to that with the spring combo, and at about 17.5psi just b4 boost cut it was pushing 574whp on pump gas! But I didn't want it that high just yet so we changed up the springs and got it pushing 10psi and boost cut at 15psi for boost spikes or anything. And it was at around 380whp just under 10psi. But we did notice that a couple valve stem oil seals are worn and one is split a Lil bit so it's consuming oil and blowing smoke at idle, got seals arriving Wednesday and replacing all of them. Crossing my fingers that's the only thing worn oil seal wise that'd create smoke that's oil related. Definitely not rich anymore and isn't fuel or coolant. So we'll see. But I've been driving it here and there regardless and it pulls hard and runs smooth!
 
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