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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
My goal: Want to run ~14.0 na on street tires.
My plans:
1)Comptech Short Ram
2)Comptech Ice Box
3)Neuspeed Shifter
4)12lb 16x7 Spoon wheels
5)205/45R16 Yoko Parada Spec 2
6)Spoon 1 Piece 4-2-1 Header
7)2.5" Carsound Cat
8)Hytech Cat-Back
9)Spoon Cams
10)Spoon Cam gears
11)Type R 62mm Throttle Body
12)Skunk 2 Intake Manifold
13)Apexi VAFC
14)Type R LSD
15)Dyno Tuned
Is that goal realistic? Also, later on if I decide to go JRSC, I know I will have to loose the Skunk 2 IM, but will the Spoon Cams work well with it? I also Plan on getting Spoon Springs and Koni Yellows, would that hurt my launch? Any Recommendations? Comments? Good Set up or no? Any input is appreciated.
Thanks
Cody
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Well, The Spoon's are lighter and Forged, so they will be stronger too. Plus, while I have the chance to afford the real things, I think I should, cause latter ill be kicking my ass...Plus, I like being original. Not many people around here have authentic Spoon wheels..
Cody
 

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if i'm not mistaken, i am not quite sure that the hytech cat-back will fit with the spoon headers...i'm not positive though. if i were you i would get the full hytech system...h/e. oh yea, get a carsound cat too, they help a lot.
 

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i doubt the spoon cams are good with FI... aftermarket cams for NA make for more overlap and stuff--things you don't want with FI. other than that, the header probably won't work with FI too well either.
 

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DaBoyNBlu on Sep/22/02 said:
i doubt the spoon cams are good with FI... aftermarket cams for NA make for more overlap and stuff--things you don't want with FI. other than that, the header probably won't work with FI too well either.
...ya u'll prolly want a header with short primarys for FI
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Isnt it possible to reduce the lobe overlap by adjusting the cam gears as needed? And I thought Hytech Custom made exhaust to you needs. Isnt the Spoon Header the same size as any other JDM header?
Cody
 

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I would loose the Spoon cams and get something better. Also think about upping compression if you do go with a wilder cam.

If there is a good Hondata tuner in your area I would think to drop the V-AFC and go with the Hondata Stage 2 instead. There will be a few extra expenses with it such as OBD-1 chip and conversion harness so research into it and see if it something to consider for you.

Lightweight flywheel should also be on your list. Upgraded clutch is a given too. If you want even more transient response out of your drivetrain go with a JDM 4.785 final drive but it can be costly for the part and install.

The HyTech catback will fit with any header, it's more or less a custom exhaust as each one is hand built to your needs.
 

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Yes, The spoon collector is 2.5" like the JDM ITR header and the JDM DC 4-1.

The primaries is what JiggyKooAndy was refering too. Take a look at the primaries on the kamikazee 4-1 header.

 

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And this does go out the window if you someday do a supercharger. Alot of parts will need to be changed out to better suit the needs of forced induction. N/A and F/I just don't mix very well as they both have two completely different ways of making power.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Thats wierd. on Mustangs, if you had FI, you wanted long tube headers...Thats funny...Well Anyways, Im not sure if Im going JRSC anyways...I have a bunch of mods to get first

Cody
 

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no offense to the FI guys on here...but i say go N/A just because on honda's i consider it more respectable AND reliable
...and yes i was thinking about turboing a gsr...still am, but i am not sure money wise yet hehe
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Yeah, I know that he was talking about the Primarys, but he also said that the Spoon header might not fit the Hytech, thats what I was refering to as size, actual length of the header, not the primaries. About loosing the Spoon cams, what would you consider better? I dont plan on making it a full drag race car, but I want to AutoX a little, infact I would prefer and autox type na engine setup. I thought the Spoon cams would help for mid-high range and would be a good choice for auto-xing.
 

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well u noted that u wanted 14.0, so i think we all assumed u were looking for more a drag car...you might want to look into some skunk2 cams/gears or crower 403's w/aem or skunk2.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Im sorry, Your right, I didnt make myself clear. What I ment to ask is with this setup, could I still pull close to 14s in the 1/4 mile? I think I am going to stay Na by the way. Crower 403s are good for Auto X ing? What about Toda? So Spoon cams arent a good choice for auto x? I figured they would be..I dont want anything too drastic, maybe at the verymost in the end, type R internals with a Mugen or Spoon head gasket.
 

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if you go with crowers definately go with 403's anything more...404's wouldn't be good for x-ing. type r internals are a good choice for x-ing. and yes with that setup and a good driver 14.0 shouldn't be super hard. that's a killer setup
 

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well for x-ing u need some low-end correct? the 404's pretty much deplete that...
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Thank you JiggyKoo. Lol. Anyways, Crower are good quality? Are they regrinds?
Cody
 

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JiggyKooAndy on Sep/22/02 said:
well for x-ing u need some low-end correct? the 404's pretty much deplete that...
Guess it depends on the cource. Optimally you should be in the high end throughout the cource with exception of the launch.

IE, if your redline is at 8k, and you are around 5k, you should probably consider downshifting.
 
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