Team Integra Forums banner

61 - 80 of 105 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
182 Posts
Discussion Starter #61
Hi Wunfstgsr,
Nice build and post! I read both your posts (team integra & honda tech) about your supercharge builds. I like how you keep your car's exterior stock as possible, but the engine all modded. It keeps the cops second guessing if your car has non-CARB parts. LOL!
Anyways, I am planning to install a turbo/SC in my '99 Teg GS-R. I came across 2 kits, Edelbrock 1505 & Procharger C-1A. Like you I am from CA so I gotta use CARB approved parts. Can you give me some advise on the kits or what to look for? Also I know that both kits says they can be used on a stock engine, but I plan to modify the engine, like the pistons, camshaft, clutch and headers. Is it necessary to change the engine block and transmission or was that just your preference? My goal is to reach 250+ WHP. I know your build can easily achieve that but I don't think I can copy your build.
Again nice build and post. I can't wait to start on my build!
Hello thanks for your comments. It depends if you get the kit new or used. The pro charger is near $6k and the turbo kit is $3k. now if you got the choice of getting either used i would go with the pro charger. For one you get a 60 +% in power increase with the turbo kit and the procharger is 50-100%. I would get the ATi because its much more cleaner it sounds way better and imo its a better power band. Its up to you but im just not a turbo guy. But it does look like a decent kit for the price! You just stand out more imo with the procharger. Imo everyones got a turbo kit its the procharger thats makes the engine unique. people wouldnt even see it if you diddnt tell them it was there. where as a turbo its just right in your face.

If you buy the turbo kit look for oil leaks and shaft play and with the procharger look for rust in the blower housing and damaged fan blades, make sure the fan blades are all in good condition, no chips or broken pieces.

Although this might deter you from the sc but i destroyed the fan blades. I hit a big dip in the freeway and my aftermarket intake arm came off the blower and it sucked a piece of plasic that i still dont know where it cam from cause i have the splash gaurd still there but it broke apprt the fan blades and its about $1,200 to get it repaired just for inspection shipping and the new fan blade and its about a 30 day turn around. but im not gonna give up on it and i will get it fixed when i can but its a bummer. and on top of that i slipped my timing belt and bent two valves and washed the rings on that cylinder.

I took off the head got it repaired and put it back on with a new h.g and timing belt. I put the stock injectors and ecu in and it runs ok but still has low comp/power. I poured a can of Engine restore and it helped out alot, it stopped some of the smoke that was coming out the vc nipple and also restored the compressikon a little, i still have to do another comp test to see how much but it feals allot better and has better drivability. sounds better too. It idles rich at 11 but once i get on it i have a good afr.

once i get some money ill get the block repaired and hopefully get the sc back on and retuned.

p.m me if you dont get the procharger and let me know where its for sale at.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3 Posts
Thanks Wunfstgsr! I contacted both Edelbrock & ProCharger and they are selling there kit for around $4,500 - $5,000. I decided to go for the ProCharger. They have good customer service unlike Edelbrock which you can contact them through email.
Anyways, I planning to prep-up the engine first, changing the clutch, flywheel, pistons, rods, header and manifold, then later this year I will install the ProCharger. But I have a few questions to ask:

1. I read that if you are going turbo/super charge that the stock valves on the cylinder head with get destroyed, so do you I need to change the header as well?

2. You think adding a LSD to a GSR transmission is good or should I just buy a ITR transmission?

3. Last, is it really necessary to change the fuel filter to the high performance one like AEM? My goal is to get 250+ HP and not 1000 HP, LOL!

Sorry to hear about your ProCharger but good to hear that you have your car running good. Hope that you will get it back up running again and hear more about your build.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
182 Posts
Discussion Starter #64
Thanks Wunfstgsr! I contacted both Edelbrock & ProCharger and they are selling there kit for around $4,500 - $5,000. I decided to go for the ProCharger. They have good customer service unlike Edelbrock which you can contact them through email.
Anyways, I planning to prep-up the engine first, changing the clutch, flywheel, pistons, rods, header and manifold, then later this year I will install the ProCharger. But I have a few questions to ask:

1. I read that if you are going turbo/super charge that the stock valves on the cylinder head with get destroyed, so do you I need to change the header as well?

2. You think adding a LSD to a GSR transmission is good or should I just buy a ITR transmission?

3. Last, is it really necessary to change the fuel filter to the high performance one like AEM? My goal is to get 250+ HP and not 1000 HP, LOL!

Sorry to hear about your ProCharger but good to hear that you have your car running good. Hope that you will get it back up running again and hear more about your build.
Im glad you got the Procharger kit! you will fall in love with it lol. Yes there customer service is 100% they are great with that! they even gave me free parts! they gave me a free boost pulley to boost more! they gave me a idle pulley for free! thats $200 in parts free.

Stock valves are fine unless its a race motor or you want to upgrade them but stock valves are fine. Now when it comes to the valve SPRINGs thats what you wanna upgrade! espesially if the motor will be boosted and if your running aftermarket cams, you dont wanna float a valve in high rpm in boost! just get a nice set of dual valve springs and titanium retainers to match your cam shaft. if your using stock cams like a itr or ctr then you will still need dual valve springs and retainers because the motor will be under boost. brans=d is up to you! ferria and skunk2 are my choices.

I wouldnt put a lsd in a gsr trans. in my personal experience its more a headache than anything. The labor and cost is not worth it especially if the lsd is not installed correct you will kick your self for having to pull out the trans again. Best bet is to get a JDM gsr trans that comes with a oem lsd or get a ITR trans! i love my ITR trans.

You dont need to change the fuel filter at all but i recomend to upgrade the fuel PUMP to a Walbro 255 pump.

I also recomend to upgrade to a procharger big red race surge valve! it does a great job of relieving compressor surge and gives the blower a mean ass sound when cruzing. Its like a blow off valve too so it has a nice swoosh when you shift. i know its better than the stock bypass valve that comes with the new kit. its pretty pricy but its the best upgrade i gave to the procharger. Boosting more than 6psi your gonna get mass compressors surge that can cause damage to the fan blades so the big red race surge valve does a great job of relieving the unused air. And makes the procharger stand out even more! guaranteed just cruzing anywhere whether its down the street or in a parking lot ect your gonna get everyones attention! the sound just breaks necks! sounds amazing! lmk how it goes.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3 Posts
Thanks for the tip Wunfstgsr! I will keep that in mind when I order the kit. I also plan to switch the intercooler to a 3 core. I am just started ordering the other parts (clutch, flywheel, pistons, etc...) and I notice that you got a Skunk2 header. I thought those aren't CARB legal? I was thinking of getting DC Headers but would like to Skunk2 for their 2.5 outlet. Also what are those sleeves around your header? They look nice in the same time makes it look old, LOL!
Thanks again!

BTW any updates on your setup?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
182 Posts
Discussion Starter #66
Thanks for the tip Wunfstgsr! I will keep that in mind when I order the kit. I also plan to switch the intercooler to a 3 core. I am just started ordering the other parts (clutch, flywheel, pistons, etc...) and I notice that you got a Skunk2 header. I thought those aren't CARB legal? I was thinking of getting DC Headers but would like to Skunk2 for their 2.5 outlet. Also what are those sleeves around your header? They look nice in the same time makes it look old, LOL!
Thanks again!

BTW any updates on your setup?
Yes im using the skunk 2 alpha tri y header. I tack welded a DC carb plate to make it look street legal lol. I also wraped it in Titanium header wrap! it gives a kinda carbon fiber look as well as keep the engine bay temps down, this is a newer product and unlike the old header wraps theres no need for gloves or the sticky spray.

Dc header sucks get a good top end flowing header like the skunk2 its well worth the price. Your gonna need it because the Procharger makes good top end so you want the header to be too. I might venture into a bisimoto header one day but not now.

Since im rebuilding the motor im still deciding what I wanna do, I might either rebuild my motor stock and get the procharger rebuilt, Or sell my motor and invest in a fully built motor and boost 20 psi on the pro charger that would be fun! or.. do a k20 swap and supercharge it with a rotrex unit.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
182 Posts
Discussion Starter #67 (Edited)
Update, The super charger filter came off and sucked some debri in and destroyed the impeller on the SC and to make it worse the belt from the SC ripped and got into my timing belt causing it to skip timing and bent the valves and cracked a piston ring gland.

So I assembled a new motor. I purchased another Crate block from the dealer and used the same head but had it reworked at a performance shop. They did a lil extra custom porting for the supercharger build. The head came out very nice with a nice port and polish on both sides along with a full rebuild.

I reassembled the motor and had a friend/tuner setup a decent base map for the motor. The motor was not dyno tested but was set with a safe AFR and a 7500 rpm rev cut just to be safe. The same setup with out the ported head and supercharger made a strong 187 WHP on a Mustang dyno which is the lowest reading dyno. With this new Type R motor with the reworked Ported cylinder head the motor feels completely different just from the reworked ported head. I'm absolutely amazed on the throttle response and feel of the motor. I would of never thought just a ported head copuld make such a difference. although I asked for a custom port it still feels much more powerful now. I wanna say its all from the ported head because the motor hasn't even been fully tuned yet N.A and the base tune feels great thanks to my tuner. Thwe motor revs so nice and I like to compare it to my old Jackson supercharged GSR motor I had a few years back that made 230 HP with 6psi at church automotive testing on there dynapack dyno. For one I feel its easily 230 HP already N.A and it feels almost the same like I have 5psi of boost! it just feels very strong for a N.A motor, its by far my fastest N.A setup iv built. The last one made 216HP on a GSR motor and this thing makes that motor feel like nothing! that's allot said.

So the motor has about a 2k miles I think, I have to look at my papers but the next oil change will be the synthetic oil and I should be ready to retune the supercharger. I already purchased the new Impeller for the supercharger from this company that rebuild centrifugal superchargers, it cost $375 and I just have to send a money order for $130 and the blower to order for the labor to have them assemble the new impeller on and inspect the blower for me.

once I get it back in about a weak I will invest in grams or ID 1000cc injectors and a new EMS like at least a hondata s200 but I just might keep the s100 but its so old. I also want to fab up a water to air intercooler with a ice box tucked somewhere in the front bumper. My goal with this setup is about 320-350 HP with about 12psi.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
182 Posts
Discussion Starter #70 (Edited)
I decided to update this thread i have a lot of new updates,

Well the company didn't have a impeller for my supercharger so i had the sc returned and I'm going to have to send the blower to Pro charger themselves so i plan to do that sometime next weak or so i been holding off on boosting it for now.

I took the car to church automotive and cleaned up the AFR again but no real tuning for hp and still pulled 200whp with the setup it had My tunner said it has a lot of more power to pull out but i saved it for when i get the sc back on so all he did was a safe AFR for now. I now have a few upgrades i have done. So far i installed a set of new Skunk2 tuner 2 cams to replace the Tuner 1 cams that were in, i also have upgraded the Skunk2 Pro series intake manifold with a Skunk2 Ultra street manifold and upgraded the 70mm throttle to a 74mm black series throttle.

I have not yet retuned the motor but the motor is running very good even with the base tune from the last setup! AFR is still good at part throttle,

My AEM Fail safe gauge stopped getting a correct reading so i sent it in and got it fixed but sold it cause I'm tired of all the AEM products that keep failing! prior to this my AEM C.O.P kit failed on the dyne and it was brand new! and also the AEM EMS V2 failed as well! So I'm back on the hondata s100 and also upgraded the afr gauge with a new Innovate MTX-L air fuel ratio gauge, it was so easy to install and its a 100% accurate afr reading! its there latest one that has came out! it works perfect!

I also installed a new set of Skunk2 pro S 2 coil overs on the car and the Skunk2 Tuner 2 cams! heres some pics,















Installing the Skunk2 Ultra manifold and 74mm throttle!,





















Installing the Skunk2 Pro S2 coil overs,












My new Innovate MTX-L air fuel ratio gauge! and old AEM fail safe gauge,















 

·
Registered
Joined
·
182 Posts
Discussion Starter #71 (Edited)
So i have a small update, I installed a new fan switch and wrapped the Skunk2 Alpha header with white Titanium heat wrap and i washed and detailed the engine bay and took some pics! by next weak i should have the Pro charger rebuilt with a few small parts im missing from the sc kit.












URL
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
182 Posts
Discussion Starter #72
Small update, 9/19/14

So My Procharger is repaired and on its way to me along with a whole new assembly bag so ill be getting all new parts to mount the blower which is great! They made a new impeller for me and replaced all the bearings they also They threw in a new boost gauge!, decals a t shirt and some more goodies for me pics will be up soon. Thanks Procharger.

On the bad note my axle boot ripped again so i just ordered me a drive shaft shop level 0 replacement axle.

Also the new ebay fan switch and thermo sensor is crap and on top of that my cheap ebay radiator is leaking! Im surprised it lasted 2 years so ill be ordering a new mishimoto radiator along with there fluid chill additive and mishimoto thermostat and there fan switch and a new oem temp sensor.

Next plans are to install the new axle then the upgraded cooling system then ill order my 1000cc injectors and s300 and have the motor fine tuned then its off to paint. I do plan to do some upgrades with my suspension like control arms and sway bars but after that i will feel I'm done with this project and hope to get some track time with it.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
182 Posts
Discussion Starter #73
So I got the Pro charger back and its rebuilt! Pro charger did a full rebuild with new bearings and a new improved impeller! I also got a new main bracket assembly bag so it comes with all new mounting hardware and pulleys to mount the blower. Since i will be using a B20 crank pulley and a 2.95'' blower pulley i had the main bracket modded to clear the B20 pulley and also had the idle pulley relocated to get better belt wrap with the smaller 2.95'' blower pulley. I also got a adapter for the filter as well as the correct filter from pro charger.






New impeller is installed!





Here you can see how the idle pulley was relocated closer and how its now much closer to the blower pulley to eliminate belt slip!



And heres the new filter and adapter for the 90 deg coupler.



 

·
Registered
Joined
·
182 Posts
Discussion Starter #75
Good stuff. Glad to see an update on this bad boy. Love how different this is from other tegs. If I could afford it I would be right there with you lol.
Thanks man! I have an extra mounting bracket I want to find a pro charger blower that spins ccw and see if it mounts or mod it to fit the bracket and i could possibly have another pro charger kit to sell someone! but thats still in the air if it would work.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
182 Posts
Discussion Starter #76
Bringing this thread back, lots and lots of updates, I'm just gonna copy my threads from honda-tech.com and share it.

I just ordered a weighted Skunk2 shift knob since i get great deals from them so I'm looking forward to how it feels after the instal, should be much better and smoother shifting. Next weak all the cooling system components will be upgraded including a Mishimoto radiator, mishimoto thermostat, new fans, new oem fan switch, oem ECT sensor, radiator cooler additive from mishimoto. Will update with pics soon!. one step closer!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
182 Posts
Discussion Starter #77
So i wanna update a few things, I installed the shift knob and to my surprise it greatly increased the ease of shifting and i really like it! driving is more pleasant. I ordered some maintenance parts such as a new Gates racing timing belt, A Mishimoto radiator, thermostat, and fan switch from Mishimoto. both OEM ECT sensors, a OEM water pump, and a few gaskets here and there. I did replace my PCV valve and hose because the hose i had on was so janky i didn't have a correct hose for the PCV valve when i installed the Ultra manifold so i got that done and working better. Don't have much pics cause my tablet broke but ill have some up soon.

But I'm holding off on installing these parts before i install the Pro charger and retune because my brakes took a crap on me, so I'm going to have to order some front rotors for the 96 spec JDM ITR and I'm gonna get some stop tech brake pads and brake lines while I'm at it. Once those are on ill do the radiator, timing belt valve lash then install the blower and tune.




 

·
Registered
Joined
·
182 Posts
Discussion Starter #78
Seems more and more things are getting old on the engine as far maintenance parts. Last night i was inspecting things and noticed my sk2 valve cover gromits are leaking oil and oil got in my spark plugs and gave me a missfire so i reset the ecu. i cleaned up everything and noticed oil on a few plugs near my vtec solinoid, so i took off the plugs off the wires and cleaned up all the connections and also redid my thermostat plug, the wires was a bit cut on the harness so i redid those with new wires. Also the cheap ebay radiator is leaking, one fan is broken and the motor over heats if im stuck in trafic sometimes. Im gonna get everything back in order and running like it should soon.

Also a friend of mine is going to polish my Injen CAI and my Pro Charger snail cover and my driver side Avid motor mount. Ill be picking up a old school ice man intake and a oem motor mount to use while those are being polished up. Got it on a trade for my old coil overs. I also need two new tires fml :(

I decided to do a full tune up this next weak some parts i already have but all this will be done at once and ill take my time do to the brake job. Im also switching to valvoline VR-1 10w30 racing oil. Parts and maintenance ill be doing soon are,

Gates Timing belt
Valve adjustment
OEM water pump
OEM ECT sending unit
OEM ECT sensor
Mishimoto radiator
Mishimoto fan switch
Mishimoto thermostat
Ngk plugs and wires
distributor cap and rotor
fuel filter
O rings for Sk2 valve cover washers
rewraping the skunk2 header
new JDM 96 spec 4x114.3 drilled/slotted front rotors
stop tech brake pads and stainless steal lines
New oil change using Valvoline VR-1 racing oil, oem oil filter
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
182 Posts
Discussion Starter #79
01-4-14


Small update well I ordered a after market ICM and swapped it in and still no start so I'm guessing it's the primary coil so I ordered one of those for a few bucks and I'll try that when it arrives in a few days. I barely ever have time to work on the car these days it's killing me, I didn't even bother testing the coil I'm sure it's the culprit but if the new coil don't work I'll barrow my friends multimeter and test the distributor.


I did however come across a great deal on a pair of rear seats that have been reupholstered to match my red Recarro SRD seats, it's made with the same suede and tweed fabric as the OEM Type r seats. I've been wanting to do this for a while cause I love the look of the CDM rear seats and these look just as good IMO. Here's some pics,

My old ITR seats,


















 

·
Registered
Joined
·
182 Posts
Discussion Starter #80
01-6-15

Well the new ICM and coil still didnt help start the car so a friend of mine came over with a gsr distributor and the motor starts right up. I already ordered a brand new distributor from Richporter so not sue now if im going to keep it or return it, i do however want to install it to see if the tach still jumps but that wont come in till next weak.

Now im still having a few issues so to update whats going on and what i plan to do so far is this,

One of the radiator fans doesnt work
The engine over heats in traffic
The engine has a cold start issue
The tach jumps around crazy still after the used good one was installed just like it did before the old distributor died..
just found out the pass side axle is now bad with a torn boot, and i just replaced the driver side not to long ago fml!
stupid exhaust rattle when reved around 1,500 rpm need to take it to a exhaust shop soon.

So tomarrow i will have some time to inspect the engine, i will check my grounds and swap in the new ICM i baught just to see if that fixes the jumping tach.

Next weak i will buy a new jack and stands and some fluids and the VR-1 oil and start the maintenance which includes,

switching to valvoline VR-1 10w30 racing oil.
Gates Timing belt
Valve adjustment
OEM water pump
OEM ECT sending unit
OEM ECT sensor
Mishimoto radiator
Mishimoto fan switch
Mishimoto thermostat
new fan
Ngk plugs and wires
distributor cap and rotor
O rings for Sk2 valve cover washers
rewraping the skunk2 header
new JDM 96 spec 4x114.3 drilled/slotted front rotors
Willwood DPHA brake caliper and pad upgrade
stoptech SS brake lines
I might just go ahead and do the passeger axle while its in the garrage.

The brake job i just might take to a friends shop cause i wont purchase the caliper upgrade till next weak or so and i can have the exhaust rattle fixed while im at it.
 
61 - 80 of 105 Posts
Top