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I kind of agree with Josh. All the fancy AEM ignition stuff is not necessary, especially where you are at. Stock ignition is usually healthy enough for 500+ before coils.

But the car is nice and Im sure its fun as hell.
 

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Discussion Starter #23 (Edited)
awesome build man, very unique!
Thank you.

I believe the S2K kit must have used another blower. The kit was made by Comptech and I forget who supplied the SC for the kit, obviously wasn't Procharger though.
It had to be the old comptech supercharger!

But man this set up is so much less maintenance than a turbo set up. The self contained oil set up is so ideal. No heat from the engine oil (Which will inturn keep your oil temps down as well), PLUS an intercooler for the charge. And I believe your total charge piping length is probably a foot or so shorter than the common B series turbo set up.

:runs off to research Prochargers: :icon_twisted:

EDIT: Wow that Tech video. These things are so damn simple. I can't believe more people haven;t used these set ups.. There has to be a catch. This blows a turbo set up (sub 400 WHP) out of the water, in every way possible.
I just think everyone leaned taward the turbo scene imo.

I've seen this on H-T, lots of work put into this setup. Do you have any dyno graphs?
I do ill post em up soon once i get my new dyno done., this first proto type setup made 275hp and 191 lbft @ 7 psi! at churches

ITR gsr intake cam ITr ex cam
Sk2 red pro series intake manifold
ITR block
DC 4-1 header
custom test pipe by Ed Hanson
Buddy club spec 3 catback 2.5''
Magna flow muffler w/gsr polished tip 2.5''
ATI Pro Charger
HKS black series ssq blow off valve
front mount intercooler painted black 2 1/4
rc 550 cc injectors w/ password JDM injector harness
walbro 255lb fuel pump
hondata s100

I retuned back at churches with a TDM tri y header and 3'' cat back ex.and 70mm sk2 alpha tb and new pulley good for 10-12psi and the new upgrades lost hp and tq on the dyno and lost 2-3psi of boost, last tune made 275hp @7psi, new upgrades made 266hp and still boosts 7psi with new smaller pulley,. the big hp and tq loss was i think mainly cause theres a 6mm step at the throtle inlet cause i didnt port match the pro series manifold. I really dont know what cause the psi to not rise, maybe the 3'' ex and tri y header.

I recently did a base line pull no tuning at a local dyno (car tune in s.d) to see where the motor stands with the new current upgrades but with the 3.15'' (7psi pulley) this is on a roller dyno not a dyna pack dyno like at churches, there dyno reads aprox 45-50hp more! base line pull hit 240 whp @ 6.4 psi, which would translate to roughly 295 hp on churches dyno untuned! with the new current setup. I figure with the port match and new setup it made roughly a gain of 25whp untuned. I will now be retuning the motor with the new AEM gear and a smaller s.c. pulley to achieve 10-12 psi. at dynotech motorsports.

current setup:
Bisimoto cam gears
Skunk 2 tunner 1 cams
Skunk 2 pro series manifold ported 70mm
Skunk 2 70mm Alpha throtle body with coolant bypass
Skunk 2 fuel rail
Skunk 2 vtec solinoid
Skunk 2 Alpha header
Skunk 2 mega r 2.5'' cat back
ed hanson 2.5'' test pipe
Injen 3'' cold air intake arm
AEM coil on plug conversion
AEM twin fire module
AEM EMS V2
rc 550cc injectors
ATI pro charger super charger 9-12 psi boost pulley
HKS ssq bov tucked
front mount intercooler with 2.4'' charge pipes
out law engineering thermal spacer kit


This setup shared here is almost all difrent, i changed almost all the mods so im interested on the outcome. Getting the psi to rise seems tricky, im using a smaller 2.95'' pulley and a big B20 crank pulley to try and raise it above 10psi this time. But i will not have it dynoed at churches going with a new tuner.

^No kidding. Except one issue.. It is a $5k kit.. Yikes! :eek:

And it basically is the charger, IC, piping, and mounting hardware for the charger (belt, pulley, etc..)
I got mine for less than $1500 used, and there way less than $5k just find a seller who sells them i seen a guy post here that had one a while back and claimed he sold them pretty cheap new.

Wow! Well based off that statement nvm �� 5k will more than get me my goals and be reliable. I am envious of your setup though. Went a different route and sometimes it pays off, and in your case it really paid off. ��

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Imo its better than any turbo kit i can ever find or put together for the price and its simplicity and ease with maintence and install makes it even more worth it. Also its street legal and comes with a carb sticker.

Unless.... I can pick up a slightly used procharger kit... ��


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just search for a used one, but there real hard to find sometimes, i came across one on honda-tech.com but the blades looked rusted so i passed on it but i would of got it for a future project just because it was going for pretty cheap.

I kind of agree with Josh. All the fancy AEM ignition stuff is not necessary, especially where you are at. Stock ignition is usually healthy enough for 500+ before coils.

But the car is nice and Im sure its fun as hell.
Yea of course the oem ingnition is "good enough" but i sugest you should research what the advantages a cop kit can give over the oem ign. it eliminates the dwell issues common to the factory distributor as RPM increases by providing an individual coil for each cylinder.

It is commonly known that the factory igniter on the B-Series engine is prone to failure. Further, as distributors age timing signal quality can decrease and lead to poor engine performance. AEM鈥檚 B-Series COP Conversion Kit eliminates energy losses associated with a deteriorated cap/rotor/wire assembly and includes an igniter that has been tested under the most rigorous conditions we could conceive鈥攔un at over 10,000 RPM for over 24 hours with a dwell time that was advanced almost 50% of the way past current saturation (3.2mS versus 2.2mS)鈥攁nd it did not fail.

IMO the hondata s100 is outdated so instead of going with a s300 i researched the new AEM V2 ems! and it has very great reviews and has so many great features one which is traction control boost control 2 step rev limiter smooth boost per speed functions speed governor and much more. along that it alowed me to upgrade to the aem cop kit and run the new AEM fail safe boost gauge that was released not to long ago! a new gauge that will literally save your motor from blowing in the event it goes lean in any cond.

I am a firm beiever that the ems is if the one the most important parts of a engine build. All the free software to tune your car is not really safe, theres storys of free soft ware glitching and motors being destroyed, motors going lean from not having a wide band gauge for air and fuel. so for this new setup i wanted to upgrade the ignition system as part of the engine build, to many people over look there engine managment.

All the aem upgrades were baught new but not anything near retail lol i got a great deal on the cop kit i couldnt pass, i got a huge discount off the AEM v2 and my a.f gauge from aem was greatly discounted by a friend of mine who sells them whole sale.

Thanks guys for the positive comments!
 

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Discussion Starter #26
Looks great! I was wondering when I would see someone with one of the red SK2 IM's. I ended up getting the black one
when i got mine they were only available for the Type r/b16 head the black ones were made only for the gsr.
 

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Yea of course the oem ingnition is "good enough" but i sugest you should research what the advantages a cop kit can give over the oem ign. it eliminates the dwell issues common to the factory distributor as RPM increases by providing an individual coil for each cylinder.


It is commonly known that the factory igniter on the B-Series engine is prone to failure. Further, as distributors age timing signal quality can decrease and lead to poor engine performance. AEM鈥檚 B-Series COP Conversion Kit eliminates energy losses associated with a deteriorated cap/rotor/wire assembly and includes an igniter that has been tested under the most rigorous conditions we could conceive鈥攔un at over 10,000 RPM for over 24 hours with a dwell time that was advanced almost 50% of the way past current saturation (3.2mS versus 2.2mS)鈥攁nd it did not fail.
Yes I know what coils do lol. I also know factory ignition isnt the "best" but certainly not bad enough to spend the $$$ on a stand alone ignition system. If I did upgrade my ignition, I would just a coil bypass and run an external coil anyway.

IMO the hondata s100 is outdated so instead of going with a s300 i researched the new AEM V2 ems! and it has very great reviews and has so many great features one which is traction control boost control 2 step rev limiter smooth boost per speed functions speed governor and much more. along that it alowed me to upgrade to the aem cop kit and run the new AEM fail safe boost gauge that was released not to long ago! a new gauge that will literally save your motor from blowing in the event it goes lean in any cond.

I am a firm beiever that the ems is if the one the most important parts of a engine build. All the free software to tune your car is not really safe, theres storys of free soft ware glitching and motors being destroyed, motors going lean from not having a wide band gauge for air and fuel. so for this new setup i wanted to upgrade the ignition system as part of the engine build, to many people over look there engine managment.
Other then Crome, which works fine if you know how to get around its bugs, I dont know what other free ones their are. Hondata, Ectune, and Neptune are all great programs that have all of those features you just mentioned through the factory computer, and have a much more friendly user interface.

Im only "arguing" because you've got the parts to support 1000whp in the ignition and EMS, but your on a stock bottom end.
 

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"New Type r head from dealer
New ITR block from dealer
New ITR trans from dealer"

"My last gsr block cost me around $2,000 for a complete rebuild pistons bearings oil water pump gaskets ect. I got my new block for $2,500 complete."

Bought from dealership? The hell? I find this VERY hard to believe. An ITR crank alone (from acuraoemparts, cheaper than dealership) is a grand. I was talking to a dealership out of curiosity awhile ago about buying a new engine and they said it would run up and over 10 grand. Not hating or anything I'm just flustered at the price of this, I feel like if new engines were that cheap Machine shops wouldn't even exist. My rebuild using existing parts and replacing some others is running around $2000 (and trying to stay conservative). To have a new engine for $2500 is mind boggling.
 

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Discussion Starter #29 (Edited)
Yes I know what coils do lol. I also know factory ignition isnt the "best" but certainly not bad enough to spend the $$$ on a stand alone ignition system. If I did upgrade my ignition, I would just a coil bypass and run an external coil anyway.



Other then Crome, which works fine if you know how to get around its bugs, I dont know what other free ones their are. Hondata, Ectune, and Neptune are all great programs that have all of those features you just mentioned through the factory computer, and have a much more friendly user interface.

Im only "arguing" because you've got the parts to support 1000whp in the ignition and EMS, but your on a stock bottom end.
Hondata s100 dont have near half as much as the new AEM V2 ems! maybe the s300 might have a few of the same features. Those are all still chipped soft ware in the stock ecu where this is a fully programable stanalone ems.

Just because my motor is stock now dont mean a motor that can handle high hp wont ever find its way in there someday! and its always good to leave room for growth, thats why im using the AEM twin fire module, if and when i boost over 15psi on a motor the AEM twin fire will be sufficient. And the fact that the ignition system can handle 1000hp on this setup is always a good thing.

"New Type r head from dealer
New ITR block from dealer
New ITR trans from dealer"

"My last gsr block cost me around $2,000 for a complete rebuild pistons bearings oil water pump gaskets ect. I got my new block for $2,500 complete."

Bought from dealership? The hell? I find this VERY hard to believe. An ITR crank alone (from acuraoemparts, cheaper than dealership) is a grand. I was talking to a dealership out of curiosity awhile ago about buying a new engine and they said it would run up and over 10 grand. Not hating or anything I'm just flustered at the price of this, I feel like if new engines were that cheap Machine shops wouldn't even exist. My rebuild using existing parts and replacing some others is running around $2000 (and trying to stay conservative). To have a new engine for $2500 is mind boggling.
Do a little research you can find em not that hard, back in 2010 lasvegasacura had a few type r heads they discounted on ebay i found, they were $1,575.00 USD total was $1,606.03 shipped.

00 to 01 Acura Integra Type R Cylinder Head $1575.00

I found a few online for a little more but $2,000 is still a great deal. If you order it now from the dealer it will be $2,500+!.

USDM Integra Type R ITR B18C5 VTEC Cylinder Head BRAND NEW

https://www.jhpusa.com/store/pc/viewPrd.asp?idproduct=3620&idcategory=224


The block you can still get from ebay,

Integra Type-R B18 Engine Short Block NEW | eBay

I got the trans from my hoda-tech.com member irev210 he works at the dealer and got me it for around $1,600 then i sold it and got another one from him for less i think about $1300. All these were brand new straight from the dealer :)
 

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Discussion Starter #30
Seems pretty dead on this site in the f.i forums, haven't seen much activity here.
Well i just upgraded my valve train, i installed skunk 2 alpha valve spring and retainers with the cylinder head still on, it was back breaking work. Also upgrade the boost pulley and installed a overdrive crank pulley from a crv so more boost is available. Lost some cash this weak somehow so ill be tuning it sometime next weak.
 

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Interesting, thanks for showing info on those prices wunfstgsr.

I checked over my expenses on my build, and comparing the prices I'd still always go the rebuild route. I do see where you are coming from. I can see how easily headaches can happen buying used (finding bad crank/bad clearances/the problems that can come with a backyard build). But its still very pricey. The block comes complete, which is nice - the block for that price I'd actually consider. While I'm nowhere near your cost, there were so many headaches, that and running around. Every time I notice I'm missing another bolt is another bit of running around trying to find one for example.

My GSR rebuild is running around $2650. That includes the price I paid for the block and head. But also includes a bunch of brand newparts (arp bolts/oem valve guides/oem dip stick/oem gaskets/oem bearings (pricey bastards)/tensioner/magnetic drain/thermostat/distrib/sandwich adapter/turbo oil fittings/oem pistons). And on top of that the block and head were worked over well (valve seats/cleaned/resurfacing/overbore/rings/).

Not running yet though... going in within a few weeks. So I guess I can't say for reliability (if it DOES fail it will more than likely be because this is my first build as an amateur)
 

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Discussion Starter #33
Interesting, thanks for showing info on those prices wunfstgsr.

I checked over my expenses on my build, and comparing the prices I'd still always go the rebuild route. I do see where you are coming from. I can see how easily headaches can happen buying used (finding bad crank/bad clearances/the problems that can come with a backyard build). But its still very pricey. The block comes complete, which is nice - the block for that price I'd actually consider. While I'm nowhere near your cost, there were so many headaches, that and running around. Every time I notice I'm missing another bolt is another bit of running around trying to find one for example.

My GSR rebuild is running around $2650. That includes the price I paid for the block and head. But also includes a bunch of brand newparts (arp bolts/oem valve guides/oem dip stick/oem gaskets/oem bearings (pricey bastards)/tensioner/magnetic drain/thermostat/distrib/sandwich adapter/turbo oil fittings/oem pistons). And on top of that the block and head were worked over well (valve seats/cleaned/resurfacing/overbore/rings/).

Not running yet though... going in within a few weeks. So I guess I can't say for reliability (if it DOES fail it will more than likely be because this is my first build as an amateur)
Your welcome! Just take your time dont rush it at all. I built my first b series when i was 23. Have the machine shop assemble the block complete and the rest is easy, assembling the head and all the components is pretty straight foward if you do enough research on the procedure. Theres many vids and how to's on assembling the motor to help.
 

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Discussion Starter #34
I am so jealous of all of this. Simply amazing.
Thank you! hopefully ill have good vids of the dyno and some street runs for people to see how this car is. I walked a dodge srt-4 on the freeway then a sti saw and came and i walked him like nothing, shifting at 7-8k on a 3rd gear pull, still on the last base map tune. Hopefully the new tune will wake the motor up to its full potential and ill take it to full boost. I glanced at my boost gauge and saw around 8-9 psi at 7-8k rpm i guess im at around 10-11 psi at redline at wot.
 

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Your welcome! Just take your time dont rush it at all. I built my first b series when i was 23. Have the machine shop assemble the block complete and the rest is easy, assembling the head and all the components is pretty straight foward if you do enough research on the procedure. Theres many vids and how to's on assembling the motor to help.
Thanks, I did the assembly myself. Engine is just waiting to be swapped over :p
 

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Discussion Starter #37
Totally awesome man!! I've looking for a used procharger setup forever!! Never can find one tho :( FML
Yea man i search for months and passed on many kits like the comptech, vortech and came across this and never heard of it and it was like everything i wanted, It utilized a intercooler like i wanted and It could use a bov and it sounds 100 times better than my old JRSC setup, It has a higher psi output and blows much cooler air. I love this kit!
 

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Discussion Starter #39 (Edited)
Any updates on this beast? Did you ever get off the base map tune and get fully tuned?
Yes well i just upgraded my valve train, i installed skunk 2 alpha valve spring and retainers with the cylinder head still on!, it was back breaking work. Also upgrade the boost pulley and installed a overdrive crank pulley from a crv so more boost is available. Lots of low and mid range has been freed up.
I also started to get mass compressor surge from the upgraded boost pulleys. So i had to disable the s.c and save up for a Pro Charger "big red" race surge valve. I recently got it in and welded up to my charge piping right after the blower so now theres no more compressor surge and the motor feels much more crisp and gets into boost much better. The sound is awesome!! sounds like a big water fall under my hood untill i get into boost, The bov sound is sweet!







I installed the big red surge valve right where the small piece of charge pipe is going in to the intercooler in the pic above.

I just set the dyno for this tues so hopefully ill have it done by next weak. The motor should see somewhere around 300 whp so ill see how close my guess is. The motor feels much more crisp and is very fun to drive.
 
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