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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have a problem with my 94 Integra LS. When I start the car from a cold start, my ABS unit makes a super loud noise that anyone can hear in the area. It's like a loud ringing sound that even I can't seem to take. When I start the car, the noise starts and then after 2-3 minutes, the noise stops and my ABS light turns on. From what other people have been saying, I may be out of fluid for the ABS unit. I don't want to take it to a dealer since they will probably charge me for it. I don't want to them to charge me just to tell me that I need fluid for it.
 

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The sound you hear when you first start your car is the ABS system pressurizing. This only pertains to '94-'97 Integras, because they have a different ABS system from the '98-'01 Integras and '97 Type-Rs. The '94-'97 Integra's ABS system has a seperate brake fluid reservior (#3 in diagram). The ABS brake fluid should be bleed and flushed periodically to remove air from the system. If you hear the buzzing for more than a couple of seconds (~2-5 sec.), this is a good indication that the ABS system needs to be bleed. Now if you hear the buzzing for ~60 seconds and then it shuts off and the ABS light comes on, it means that the ABS system could not be pressurized and the ABS has been disabled. The main cause is a small rubber O-ring (#23) which seals the brake fluid ACCUMULATOR (#2) which is under extremely high pressure. If this O-ring fails brake fluid will leak out and you will see it under the ABS module.

Here is a diagram of the '94-'97 Integra ABS module:

 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
So if I get the O-ring replacement then that would fix the problem? Is it recommended for an amateur like me to fix this problem? How do you remove the accumulator?
 

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Zclyh3 on Apr/01/03 said:
So if I get the O-ring replacement then that would fix the problem? Is it recommended for an amateur like me to fix this problem? How do you remove the accumulator?
The O-ring will prevent the fluid from leaking out under pressurization of the system.

To replace the O-ring you will need to disconnect the brake lines that connect to ABS modulator and remove it from the car. You will need to unbolt the accumulator to replace the O-ring. once the O-ring is replaced, you just reinstall the ABS modulator and reconnect the brake lines. Then you will need to bleed the brake system, as well as, bleed the ABS system.
 

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Are you working out or trying to fart?

I mean if your working out, yeah your abs will start to cramp but it sounds to me like your farting or something since you said you make a loud noise.

;)

*Check article*
 

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i dont see a reason to justify the need to upgrade the ABS system to the 98+.

What Bret (BSQ5) was talking about doesnt happen on a daily basis, as long as you bleed the ABS system and make sure the pressure built up is in spec, you will not have any problems with the ABS system. And if you do bleed the ABS system it wont make that noise.

I have the noise as well for about a second. I'll be taking his advice. The effort and trouble and money you will need to spend to update the ABS system to 98+ spec just doesnt seem worth it.
 

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DeadLock23 on Apr/02/03 said:
i dont see a reason to justify the need to upgrade the ABS system to the 98+.

What Bret (BSQ5) was talking about doesnt happen on a daily basis, as long as you bleed the ABS system and make sure the pressure built up is in spec, you will not have any problems with the ABS system. And if you do bleed the ABS system it wont make that noise.

I have the noise as well for about a second. I'll be taking his advice. The effort and trouble and money you will need to spend to update the ABS system to 98+ spec just doesnt seem worth it.
I agree 100%. Well said!
 

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M_Shaffie on Sep/15/04 said:
i have a 92 gsr and i have the exact same problem. is my abs system similar in that replacing the oring will solve the problem, and if so does anyone have a diagram of where it is and how to replace it. thanks.

I also have 92 gs and have what I think is same problem. I seem to lose the ABS fluid. But I would describe the noise as more of a groan. Anyway, did replacing the o-ring resolve your problem? Is it expensive?
 

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Last week I had my master cylinder, the 2 front rotors, the passenger side rear rotor, the rear passenger caliper, and all 4 sets of brake pads replaced. After bleeding the brakes using the RR, LR, LF, RF method, I started my car to check the pressure of the brake pedal. Right after I turned the car on, the ABS unit started to make a whining sound for ~30 secs then it stopped and the light came on. We shut the car off, pumped the brakes some more, then turned it back on. Same noise started again so my Dad added brake fluid to the ABS thing and it's still making that noise. Now everytime I start my car it makes that noise for approx 30 secs and stops and the light comes on and stays on.

Also, my brake pedal still has a lot of "slack" in it. When I press the brake pedal it travels about 60% of the way then begins to stop. I was having similar problems before, that's why I replaced the master cyclinder. My Dad said part of the reason might be that my new RR caliper hadn't adjusted yet so I needed to pump my e-brake. I did that like 50 times and my braking response has improved very little. Is this problem being caused by the ABS system not working?

Btw, I put Hawk HPS pads in the front w/Brembo blanks, thermoquiet ceramic pads in the rear w/ a blank rotor from advance auto parts, and a brand new OEM master cylinder.
 
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