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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey guys I tried searching "motor silk" but nothing came up. Anyway, has anyone ever heard of "motor silk" and is it compatible with all types of engines? I remember adding this to my car...I dont know if that was a good idea or not...its supposed to make your engine run smoother and it chemically bonds making a very silky smooth surface on the metal parts or whatever inside the engine.

My car is a 2001 LS...no engine mods except AEM CAI. It has about 72,000 miles now and its burning oil....about a quart every 500 miles....I do not know what the cause is...visually I see no leaks and my engine sounds and runs fine...no loss of power. I'm using 10W30 regular motor oil...i havent tried synthetic yet.....what should i do please help


**UPDATE** here is some info on "motor silk"

MotorSilk™ Engine Oil Treatment is designed to extend the life and operating range of your engine. It blends with your existing engine oil and contains boron-based components that protect vital working parts from friction and corrosive elements.

The main component of this blend is Boron CLS Bond™. Boron CLS Bond™ is a U.S. Patented ingredient whose basis was developed in U.S. Government laboratories. "MotorSilk™ Engine Oil Treatment" with Boron CLS Bond™ is many times slipperier than PTFE (Teflon) that is often found in engine oil additives.

However. Motor Silk™, (aka Motorsilk™) with Boron CLS Bond™ is not an oil additive; rather, this advanced technology - developed at the Department of Energy at Argonne National Laboratories - creates a permanent Crystal Lattice Structure on all metal surfaces - 85% the hardness of a diamond - virtually eliminating friction and wear in fluid systems.

The new surface also blocks oxygen to prevent corrosive activity. This micro-layer of protection is bonded to metal surfaces with strong covalent and ionic bonds (atomic and sub-atomic bonds). It provides a long-lasting, low-friction surface impervious to most contaminants. Most treatments last as long as the vehicle.



Click here for motor silk info
 

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anything external added to the existing motor oil unbalances the additives package formulation.

your oil is a balance of ingredients that includes extra anti-friction/wear, detergents, anticorrosives, suspending agents, etc.


if you arbitrarily throw in an anti-friction component and it unbalances the formulation, it can inactivate other additive components and how they work.


it's better to know what temp your engine stress works to and then choose the right formulation oil with the right weight and additives package to handle that load rather than throwing in blindly a single additive.


if you don't lap the car at high rpms for a long time then a standard 30 weight oil is fine. Synthetics can withstand viscosity breakdown longer than dino (non-synthetic) oil and there is no point in getting semi-synthetic since you're just watering down the synthetic's effectiveness by cutting it with half dino oil. The other thing a synthetic offers is longer time in between changes since it holds up longer.

if you're burning oil, find out the cause rather than dumping in an additive that you don't know what will do to the oil formulation.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
MichaelDelaney on Jan/26/06 said:
anything external added to the existing motor oil unbalances the additives package formulation.

your oil is a balance of ingredients that includes extra anti-friction/wear, detergents, anticorrosives, suspending agents, etc.


if you arbitrarily throw in an anti-friction component and it unbalances the formulation, it can inactivate other additive components and how they work.


it's better to know what temp your engine stress works to and then choose the right formulation oil with the right weight and additives package to handle that load rather than throwing in blindly a single additive.


if you don't lap the car at high rpms for a long time then a standard 30 weight oil is fine. Synthetics can withstand viscosity breakdown longer than dino (non-synthetic) oil and there is no point in getting semi-synthetic since you're just watering down the synthetic's effectiveness by cutting it with half dino oil. The other thing a synthetic offers is longer time in between changes since it holds up longer.

if you're burning oil, find out the cause rather than dumping in an additive that you don't know what will do to the oil formulation.

It says it is not an additive....so i dont know

I took my car to get oil change at a maintenance place like 2 years back, and thats when I added this thing... Its been within the past 6 to 12 months that my car is starting to burn oil...
 

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Anything that changes the surface of your cylinder wall to ring interaction will make things worst not better eventually and will require you to rehone the walls and change out the rings. I'm not a big fan of adding any boron based product that binds to the walls. You hone a crosshatch on their for a reason to that the rings have a working surface to grab. According to a well respected engine builder tha I talked to, if the piston to wall clearance has been increased by more than 0.5 thou due to ring wear or wall wear, it's time to rehone not add bandaids that will make matters worst.

That thing will make your burning oil worst not better.

The other thing you must consider is this: if you add to it your oil, it doesn't selectively go to certain surfaces . It binds to all surfaces that the oil sees including your cams and rockers. Boron binding to my cam lobe and rocker arm surface ? No thanks.


PS it says it's not but you just added it to your oil....that makes it become an additive. LOL. I love marketing BS language. If you don't know how it works or what it does or if it affects the additives package then don't add it...just spend the money on a quality oil.

do a compression test and leakdown test and test your PCV valve.
 
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