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Stock water pump on left, Meziere (AEBS sells these) water pump's idler pulley to replace it on the right. Notice the size difference in impellers.











here's the result of swapping out the stock water pump (red) for a Meziere water pump (blue): 4-6 whp on a basic i/h/c/e setup.

 

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ya gotta love what the simple things can do
 

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It is an electric water pump...
I have one sitting in my room and have not been able to install it as of yet. You have to replace the stock water pump with a dummy pulley plate and that requires you to remove the engine to get at this.
Basicly I'm waiting for my clutch to go so I can drop the whole engine instead of just the transmision to kill two birds with one stone.

I have heard that they can "overcool" your engine when you first start your car. The engine needs to be operating at a certain temperature to work efficiently and these electric water pumps run at a constant rate even at idle unlike a stock water pump.
Also with the electric water pump you have to drill 2 holes in the thermostat so the electric water pump does not get restricted.
The thermostat is no longer closed an thus it takes forever to warm your engine when you start your car.

Here is a solution I figured out...
a company called CSI make a digital temperature guage which can control when you want your electric water pump or fans to come on at any temperature desired.
I'll give this a try and see how it works for me.
 

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I went to Meziere's website and was unable to find a Honda/Acura application. Is there one that isn't listed on the website, or was it just a pump from one of the other applications? I guess I may have to try contacting my local Meziere vendor in the morning before bed.
 

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The Pump is not located on their website ...
1990 - 2000 honda civic or acura integra B series engine part # is
MEZ-WPK500

they cost 349.95 from Summit racing ...

Do not just run out and buy this.... THIS WIll be a pain in the ass to install... YOU have to remove the whole engine to install the dummy plate... and iron out complications such as the one described above
 

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Thanks for that info.


I'm not too worried about my car taking time to heat up. I live in Phoenix so I'm not too concerned about it taking longer to heat up. I am not in a hurry to buy it, just doin' my homework.
 

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Here is an update with more info on the electric water pump
...
4 months ago I installed The Meziere Electric water pump on a b18c1 ...

Install process= Pain in the Ass...
Since you have to remove the stock water pump to install the dummy pully you will have to remove the Crank pulley ... which you could go about it by either doing this by locking the flywheel or by using the moroso crank lock tool you can buy for 70 bucks through Summit....
Clearences would be very tight if you tried to do it while the engine is in the car and it definetely will be a pain in the ass ....I did mine with the engine out so it was easier...

Overcooling the engine= YES, YES, YES!!!... THE Thermostat cannot help you at all ... you ARE REQUIRED to drill 2 3/8th holes in the thermostat to insure the electric water pump does not seize up because of no coolant flow....
YOUR CAR DEFINETLY WILL OVERCOOL upon startup if you simply leave the water pump on ...

Granted I HAve a Fluidyne radiator to help with my cooling, but I have to still get into my car and drive around for 3 minutes with absolutly No pump movement just to get my temperature up .. then switch the pump on for 30 seconds , then off of for 2 minutes , than on for 30 seconds , off for 30 seconds , on for 30 seconds .. ect....
A TOTAL PAIN IN THE ASS ....

These past couple days it has been cold out .. 40-50F ... My electric water pump was on for maybe 5% of the time .. if not less ... This thing is really efficient and works really well at cooling your engine... I added 80% radiator fluid to 20% water just to attempt to try to decrease my cars cooling efficiency ... before I was running 80% water 20% coolant (because I raised the PSI in my coolant system with a Greddy radiator cap)....

Possible solution??? I purchased a CSI Water temp guage which allows said user to set a preset temperature for any accesories like a electric water pump to be turned on and off via a relay....
Problem solved? No more turning a switch on and off? No....
The CSI unit resets the temperature to 300 F everytime you step in the car .. so you have to reset the preset everytime ... not good for valet or handing the keys to your friend ... Solution= attach to a constant Hot volt so the guage never turns off .. power drain should be menial ....

Another problem ... The Guage seems to like picking up EMI and RF radiation in the engine bay via the water temp probe and wire ... CSI is aware of this problem and explain to the user that he/she needs to ground the outer layer of the coaxial cable on both sides of the Water temp sender wire ...
I did this , routed my cable in many different positions in my engine bay(as far away from the distributor as possible), I even went so far as to wrap aluminum around all the wire and probe to insulate it from this radiation.... NOTHING WORKS

So what happens to the guage when it starts freaking out because the interference gets picked up? It shuts off .... So you may be driving along .. and all of a sudden you notice your car starts overheating because your pump has been off for 10 minutes ... Or mabey you radiator hoses pop off and all of your coolant gets drained because the pressure in your coolant system is so high because of the overheating... This sometimes happens every 30 seconds or every 5 minutes ... completely random.. anytime.
The only way to reset the guage is to pull to the side of the road and turn your car off and on ....

Until I figure out to solve the EMI/Rf problems I will be stuck using a switch // and turning the water pump on and off again, on and off again, ect.....

Other problems ... Intake pipe, or KN filter might get in the way of Electric water pump which sits right next to the distributor on the lower radiator hose.

Some good things -- 3-5 whp gains throughout the powerband .. more up top...nice...
Car is really efficient at cooling and is great to cool down between runs at the track or pulls between the dyno...
Reliability is not an issue , this is a very simple 12 volt pump... well made, will last ...
Power drain not an issue ... this thing does not drain much power....

Some weird observations=
When cruising at constant speeds on the highway for longer periods of time air pockets can occur unlike the stock setup because of the placement of the electric water pump inline which will cause your car to run a little hotter than normal ...
solution speed up a little and slow down .. elimanating the pocket...

any other questions???
 

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Man you saved me, I was just shopping for one! whew, I love it when another TI member post long detailed "lessons learned" posts, it makes it better for us all. keep us informed
Terry
 

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Discussion Starter #16
but did you dyno her before and after?

again, thank you for posting this. very detailed and insightful.

as with any race only modification, you surrender convenience and comfort in the name of power efficiency. you will eventually solve this frequency interference issue (have you called MSD for tech support? they may have an idea). once that is out of the way, you will have back some of the creature comforts of a daily driver.

the question is how much efficiency was gained?
 

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no, since you can tap in a pressure sensor right off the outlet, then you would immediately know if it was the pump. actually troubleshooting would be easier since the components are seperate. imagine trying to troubleshoot your or replace your stock water pump in only a few minutes. not happening.
 

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I like Stewart Warner's new water pump system. It can hold an engine to an exact temperature, not to simply a temperature range. It's input uses rpm as well as temperature probes.
At least somebody's doing their homework and not just turning out gadgets.
 

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I haven't taken the car to the dyno... so the whp increases posted are based on other peoples dyno plots I have seen and my "Butt dyno" which isn't accurate ... I'm curious to find out too though...

I don't have an MSD Ignition so that isn't contributing towards any interference problems ... I'm assuming these are interference problems created by the distributor itself and other electronic equipment inside my engine bay ...

It will take some time to iron out these electrical/ emi problems ....

"If the electronic water pump fails, it can be much
more difficult to diagnose a problem & fix it,"

as far as being much more difficult this is simply not true.....
before i figured out my csi guage/ controller was reseting itself due to emi/rf interference I thought that my electric water pump had gone bad ... I tested it very easily and quickly my connecting the power wires to a spare battery to watch the turbine spin... simple and easy.... If you were curious to see if the pump was getting enough voltage than a multimeter would do the trick ....


"I like Stewart Warner's new water pump system. It
can hold an engine to an exact temperature, not to
simply a temperature range. It's input uses rpm as
well as temperature probes."

I checked out his website and only found water temp sending units and guages ... He doesn't sell anything which is a controller guage which connects to a relay which can control a 12 volt item (such as an electric water pump) does he???
 
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