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Discussion Starter #82
Installing the transmission Continued

With the bulk of the trans install done, it was time to move on to the linkage and clutch setup.

Here's a shot of the S2000 master cylinder tucked down on the firewall:


And the slave cylinder on the other end


I installed the pedals by unbolting the brake pedal from the frame and swapping it with the 5-speed part. The spring was a superbitch to get back on. Nick ended up being successful on that part.


With that in, the linkage was next. The holes had to be drilled in. You can use hardware store bolts to bolt in the linkage. I bought real honda bolts and hardware store nuts.


We then froze the ***** pin then hammered it in. It went in pretty easy this way.

With that in, it was time to mod the starter to fit. Do yourself a favor if you swap: BUY A 5-SPEED STARTER! The auto one will work but its a HUGE pain in the ass to make the bolt holes fit right. The auto bolt holes are too far apart, so we spent a good 45minutes dremeling/drilling out the factory holes.


With that all done and in I got to drive it. Everything seemed to run and work fine.


The next day I had to seal up the big assed holes in the console tunnel of the car. Its really freaky driving down the highway at 70 with big holes straight down to the pavement.

I started by hammering the flared up parts down with a punch and a hammer.


and a shot of the other hole hammered flat


Then I made a cardboard template and had to find some sheet metal. Being as it was labor day, I had no place to get sheet metal. I improvised by using a ChefMate baking sheet
. I figured it was already painted, non stick, and temperature resistant!

Look at that hawt baking sheet action!


I then carefully laid down some RTV and pasted it in


Here are the pop rivets I used to secure the panel


And the final product



That is where the car sits right now. I'll put up detailed electrical explanations when I get to them. Maybe tomorrow, maybe not.

Questions?
 

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Great write up Casey. I'm sure you'll love driving your teg even more.

I do envy your LS 5th gear, my GSR is turning just over 4000rpm at 80 and it seems the engine is screaming when I'm just cruising down the freeway. I'd give up a little acceleration in 4th to 5th shifts to get the freeway rpms down a little. With the LS 5th gear, what rpms are you turning at say 70 and or 80 mph?
 

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Discussion Starter #85
mrmad on Sep/06/07 said:
Great write up Casey. I'm sure you'll love driving your teg even more.

I do envy your LS 5th gear, my GSR is turning just over 4000rpm at 80 and it seems the engine is screaming when I'm just cruising down the freeway. I'd give up a little acceleration in 4th to 5th shifts to get the freeway rpms down a little. With the LS 5th gear, what rpms are you turning at say 70 and or 80 mph?
At 70 I'm at like 3400, and at 80 its about 3800, so its not too much less than the stock GSR
 

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thanks for the great idea to cover up my auto holes. I had such problems with the flared up peices of metal when trying to cover it up. ill have to try that soon.
 

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A tip on the tunnel area around the shifter:
I don't know if most salvage yards will do this, but if you can have them cut out the tunnel of a manual car. This will allow you to use the factory rubber boot that seals off the hole around the shifter.
 

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MeltMan on Sep/06/07 said:
Quote: RedTEGchick on Sep/06/07If you're able to get cruise control working, let me know. I never got mine to work afterwards.

Search TI, there is an explanation on how to do it...

Or wait till I post up pretty pictures of how to do it.
I've read every related topic on T-I, H-T, and SHO. I even posted a thread about it on here. My thread. Nothing has worked. The part #'s for the cruise control units are different between auto and 5spd, but from the helms manual they seem to both work the same way in regard to having the clutch pedal in or the car in d3/d4.
 

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I also got an opportunity to drive casey's car after we finished. All I have to say is "shorter pedal travel" is an understatement. The car is DYING for a B&M short shifter. His ability to rip through the gears with both a short shifter and his ridiculously short pedal travel is going to be an asset during autox and drag.

The shifting is extremely smooth, albiet the pedal has that sort of mushy feel of most hydros, which only those of us spoiled by cables notice.

The featherlight flywheel is really matched well with this combination of parts. The revs are crisply quick, but not so much so that one would be caught being overzealous with shifting. I expected it to be far worse than it was for being a 7 pounder.

We haven't really tested full throttle so I'm not sure on his shift points yet.
 

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RedTEGchick on Sep/07/07 said:
Quote: MeltMan on Sep/06/07Quote: RedTEGchick on Sep/06/07If you're able to get cruise control working, let me know. I never got mine to work afterwards.
Search TI, there is an explanation on how to do it...

Or wait till I post up pretty pictures of how to do it.


I've read every related topic on T-I, H-T, and SHO. I even posted a thread about it on here. My thread. Nothing has worked. The part #'s for the cruise control units are different between auto and 5spd, but from the helms manual they seem to both work the same way in regard to having the clutch pedal in or the car in d3/d4.


ill find it for you!
 

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RedTEGchick on Sep/07/07 said:
I've read every related topic on T-I, H-T, and SHO. I even posted a thread about it on here. My thread. Nothing has worked. The part #'s for the cruise control units are different between auto and 5spd, but from the helms manual they seem to both work the same way in regard to having the clutch pedal in or the car in d3/d4.
Read through this thread, this guy was able to make the Cruise Control work in his car, might want to get a hold of him if his explanation in his posts dont make sense to you :) hope this helps

http://www.team-integra.net/forum/display_topic_threads.asp?ForumID=15&TopicID=104094
 

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To make it easier here is a Quote from his Post:

"I have been able to fix the cruise control dilemma!
Under the cup holder there is a harness that is connected to a big white clip for the auto shifter. This harness is connected to another harness. From here, cut the small pink wire and the small black wire next to it. Connect these two together. But my problem was after I did this, the key wouldn't remove. So then what I did was connect the black that I had cut previously back to the black again. So basically my pink was spliced into the small black wire...
in short. Splice the small pink wire into the small black wiring. This worked for me. To turn off the cc, press in the brake as my clutch wiring is hooked up so this will not turn it off.
here's a pic I found on the internet:" - aznguyen316



"To get cruise control you have to connect the clutch safey switch. To connect the clutch safey switch you have to run two wires from the switch to the connector where the old auto shifter use to connect. you have to connect it to two wires at this hardness (will get you the colors later) that takes care of the car starting without the clutch pressed in. now for the cruise control you have to splice into the two wires that come from the clutch switch and connect them to two more wires at that same hardness(will get you the colors later). This is done so that when cruise control is on and you press in the clutch cruise control will turn itself off. " -Baze

"This is what I used. It's for a Civic EX swap the colors turned out to be the same.

Looking at Automatic Shifter plug, the positions are (left to right) (top row) 14,13,12,11,10,9,8 and (bottom row) 7,6,5,4,3,2,1.

Starter (top) Sensor: There are two heavy gauge wires (position #11 and position #12). Connect these two wires to the top sensor (clutch interlock switch) on the clutch pedal assembly. This will only allow the car to start when the clutch pedal is engaged. In other words, every time you press the clutch you will close the circuit.

Cruise Control (bottom) Sensor: The bottom switch is your cruise control disable switch. Run two wires from the switch: connect one to the position #7 (black) and the other to #13 (pink). Every time you press the clutch pedal, the cruise control will disable.

Removing the Key: on the 14-wire plug, there is a black wire you will need to connect to a green wire with a white stripe. This puts the car in “park” so you can take the key out at any time.

Reverse Lights: Look at the plug you used on the engine wiring harness to hook up to your reverse sensor on the manual transmission. Run two wires from this switch to the yellow wire and a green wire with black stripe (positions 4 and 5) at the big plug that you cut off from the auto shifter. Now your reverse lights should work. " -Baze
 

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Seen it, read it, tried it. Failed.

I think I linked to the same info in my original thread.

The rest of the wiring worked perfect from the beginning. I even did the reverse lights.

on the first attempt, I ran the small pink and black to the pin switch on the clutch pedal and soldered them in place. Nothing.
Second attempt, I connected the pink and black together. Nothing.
Third attempt, I had them connected and attached to the pin switch. Nothing.
Fourth attempt, I grounded the pink wire directly to the chassis. Nothing.
Fifth attempt, I took my old auto gear selector, made sure it was in the D4 position and reconnected the small pink and black wires.

From what I understand, the way CC is only able to engage if the car is going 25mph+ and the pink has continuity to ground. The clutch pedal being disengaged (with wires connected to the switch of course) or the auto gear selector being 2-D4 allow continuity to ground. If all the CC unit needs to see is continuity to ground, why would I need a different unit for a 5spd and why is there different part #'s?

Thank you for gathering the info though IntegraX97.
 

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RedTEGchick on Sep/07/07 said:
Seen it, read it, tried it. Failed.

I think I linked to the same info in my original thread.

The rest of the wiring worked perfect from the beginning. I even did the reverse lights.

on the first attempt, I ran the small pink and black to the pin switch on the clutch pedal and soldered them in place. Nothing.
Second attempt, I connected the pink and black together. Nothing.
Third attempt, I had them connected and attached to the pin switch. Nothing.
Fourth attempt, I grounded the pink wire directly to the chassis. Nothing.
Fifth attempt, I took my old auto gear selector, made sure it was in the D4 position and reconnected the small pink and black wires.

From what I understand, the way CC is only able to engage if the car is going 25mph+ and the pink has continuity to ground. The clutch pedal being disengaged (with wires connected to the switch of course) or the auto gear selector being 2-D4 allow continuity to ground. If all the CC unit needs to see is continuity to ground, why would I need a different unit for a 5spd and why is there different part #'s?

Thank you for gathering the info though IntegraX97.

It looks to me that you arent doing the second step to that write up... You are only connecting on set of wires to the pedal assy. There is a second step that needs to be done in order to work. Steps in bold...

1. "To get cruise control you have to connect the clutch safey switch. To connect the clutch safey switch you have to run two wires from the switch to the connector where the old auto shifter use to connect. you have to connect it to two wires at this hardness (pink and black) that takes care of the car starting without the clutch pressed in.

2. now for the cruise control you have to splice into the two wires that come from the clutch switch and connect them to two more wires at that same hardness(will get you the colors later). This is done so that when cruise control is on and you press in the clutch cruise control will turn itself off. "
 

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Discussion Starter #99
IntegraX97 on Sep/07/07 said:
It looks to me that you arent doing the second step to that write up... You are only connecting on set of wires to the pedal assy. There is a second step that needs to be done in order to work. Steps in bold...
No, step 1 is connecting the two big black wires together. The car wont start without these connected (or hooked to clutch switch)

Step 2 is the black/pink connection. I just twisted them together for my trip back to Manhattan tonight. I'll let you all know if it worked.
 

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that doesnt sound right.... those 2 heavy wires are for the starter only. you connect those 2 heavy wires in that harness to complete the circuit to the starter only.

I connected those 2 wires in my car and it was the only thing that would start my car. My clutch pedal doesnt need to be pressed in to start the car.
 
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