Good luck with it man... How much is all this running you?
manual swap Hell
yea... so for the past 3 weeks I've been swapin my 96LS over to manual.. its been a fun learning experience. Ive beened helped by a friend whos a Honda Tech, although he has realy no swap experience. Finialy get the car started last night and I've got a fast Idle problem.
Also, the Clutch dose not engage/disengage when I press the clutch in. Its always engaged. only way to get it to move is start it already in gear. Otherwise with the clutch engaged its impossible to put in gear without grinding.
I'm sorta giving up and taking it to a local shop 1 mile from my house to get finished up in the next couple days and work out the bugs.
Pics and more info to follow
Also, the Clutch dose not engage/disengage when I press the clutch in. Its always engaged. only way to get it to move is start it already in gear. Otherwise with the clutch engaged its impossible to put in gear without grinding.
I'm sorta giving up and taking it to a local shop 1 mile from my house to get finished up in the next couple days and work out the bugs.
Pics and more info to follow
1 - 15 of 15 Posts
prob lil over 3grand, but list of parts as follows
LS trans fully rebuilt all new gear set and synchro's
Quaife Limited Slip
ACT prolite 8lb flywheel and clutch
Mugen pedal set
Spoon Shift knob
HCM Motor mount or something like that
master/slave
pedal assembly
linkage
ecu
Therers more I cant think of now
LS trans fully rebuilt all new gear set and synchro's
Quaife Limited Slip
ACT prolite 8lb flywheel and clutch
Mugen pedal set
Spoon Shift knob
HCM Motor mount or something like that
master/slave
pedal assembly
linkage
ecu
Therers more I cant think of now
aw man...don't give up! You've gotten this far!
If it's staying engaged...check the fluid level in the C.M.C.check the slave cylinder too.
Good luck though whatever you do!
If it's staying engaged...check the fluid level in the C.M.C.check the slave cylinder too.
Good luck though whatever you do!
3 weeks...good lord. How many hours a day have you been puting into it?
Good luck with it. At least you got it this far. Don't be ashamed if you really need to bring it somewhere. Better pay for it then to mess it up.
In Reply To Version 4 User:
yea... so for the past 3 weeks I've been swapin my 96LS over to manual.. its been a fun learning experience. Ive beened helped by a friend whos a Honda Tech, although he has realy no swap experience. Finialy get the car started last night and I've got a fast Idle problem.
Also, the Clutch dose not engage/disengage when I press the clutch in. Its always engaged. only way to get it to move is start it already in gear. Otherwise with the clutch engaged its impossible to put in gear without grinding.
I'm sorta giving up and taking it to a local shop 1 mile from my house to get finished up in the next couple days and work out the bugs.
Pics and more info to follow Don't give up man. If the clutch won't disengage, you could have air in the line, a lack of fluid in the master cylinder, etc. How does the pedal feel?
yea... so for the past 3 weeks I've been swapin my 96LS over to manual.. its been a fun learning experience. Ive beened helped by a friend whos a Honda Tech, although he has realy no swap experience. Finialy get the car started last night and I've got a fast Idle problem.
Also, the Clutch dose not engage/disengage when I press the clutch in. Its always engaged. only way to get it to move is start it already in gear. Otherwise with the clutch engaged its impossible to put in gear without grinding.
I'm sorta giving up and taking it to a local shop 1 mile from my house to get finished up in the next couple days and work out the bugs.
Pics and more info to follow Don't give up man. If the clutch won't disengage, you could have air in the line, a lack of fluid in the master cylinder, etc. How does the pedal feel?
i reccomend u dont give up yet man, me and my friend are doing the same thing on his maxima and are almost done so i will tell you shortly weather or not we have any of those problems and how to fix em... or if u fix the problems first tell me what was wrong... ps: we should be done by this saturday or sunday
Hey out of curiosity..how much did the rebuild cost you? I'm assuming the quife was put in at the same time?
did you bleed the clutch line completely? You may have air somewhere in the line (however, this would mean that it would just never engage) When you put the clutch in, did you put the clutch fork on right (the thing that pushes moves when you put the clutch in.)
on a diffrent note, what mount did you use for the tranny? Did you just buy an aftermarket mount or did you use an OEM manual mount and just take off the bracket and weld on a manual tanny bracket?
on a diffrent note, what mount did you use for the tranny? Did you just buy an aftermarket mount or did you use an OEM manual mount and just take off the bracket and weld on a manual tanny bracket?
hehe im here to solve your problems...
couple quic questions...
1st and foremost did you use a new MC? if not look for leaking points and also leaks in your hydralic line...
2ndly re-bleed you hydralics...ive seen people do this wrong and get very very pissed off...a vacuum bleeder will help get some of the air out of the lines...but if your a one man operation like myself you can find some one way valve that you can open and just keep depressing the clutch to get the air out of the lines...i forget that link to the site...but their inexpensive and a solid way to make sure you have the air out of the lines...
lastly pull the rubber boot off the Y-arm goin into the tranny and make sure it feels right...many people when re-installin the tranny nock it off the throwout bearing causing it to well...not function properly...therefore not disengaing the clutch....
the reason you can roll and shift is well due to the way a tranny works...but forcing it you are making the syncros work really hard...but it will engage when the speed of the input shaft corresponds to the engine speed...and whamo the both mesh together...
ive personally never changed a teg to manual but its not that hard...ive done a chevy corsica manual swap...
if you have any more questions post them up here...and ill try my best to solve your problems etc...good luck!
couple quic questions...
1st and foremost did you use a new MC? if not look for leaking points and also leaks in your hydralic line...
2ndly re-bleed you hydralics...ive seen people do this wrong and get very very pissed off...a vacuum bleeder will help get some of the air out of the lines...but if your a one man operation like myself you can find some one way valve that you can open and just keep depressing the clutch to get the air out of the lines...i forget that link to the site...but their inexpensive and a solid way to make sure you have the air out of the lines...
lastly pull the rubber boot off the Y-arm goin into the tranny and make sure it feels right...many people when re-installin the tranny nock it off the throwout bearing causing it to well...not function properly...therefore not disengaing the clutch....
the reason you can roll and shift is well due to the way a tranny works...but forcing it you are making the syncros work really hard...but it will engage when the speed of the input shaft corresponds to the engine speed...and whamo the both mesh together...
ive personally never changed a teg to manual but its not that hard...ive done a chevy corsica manual swap...
if you have any more questions post them up here...and ill try my best to solve your problems etc...good luck!
get a stock mount w/ a energy suspension insert and youll be more than happy and have a much cheaper alternative...there is no welding it should all bolt upasmallsol on Feb/25/04 said:on a diffrent note, what mount did you use for the tranny? Did you just buy an aftermarket mount or did you use an OEM manual mount and just take off the bracket and weld on a manual tanny bracket?
ok... here I go
Trans mount I used an aftermarket mount otherwise rewelding of the passengerside upper trans mount is needed.. OEM manual trans mount WILL NOT FIT, I tried I'll get the brand name soon
Brand New OEM Master Cylinder
I bled the clutch like 5 times, pedal feels great
Trans Rebuild my friend whos helpin me works for Honda hes a tech, he rebuilt it before I ever got it.. I just threw the LSD in.. to my understanding it costs 1000 for new internals but we got dealer wholesale. I spent 1200 including his labor for the swap so I guess 800 on the trans
Trans mount I used an aftermarket mount otherwise rewelding of the passengerside upper trans mount is needed.. OEM manual trans mount WILL NOT FIT, I tried I'll get the brand name soon
Brand New OEM Master Cylinder
I bled the clutch like 5 times, pedal feels great
Trans Rebuild my friend whos helpin me works for Honda hes a tech, he rebuilt it before I ever got it.. I just threw the LSD in.. to my understanding it costs 1000 for new internals but we got dealer wholesale. I spent 1200 including his labor for the swap so I guess 800 on the trans
oh man ...thats alot of cash, almost a turbo kit..haha! good luck man
could have sworn they were the same...Oops my b...ill take a closer look at a teg in the yard...huh kinda of odd honda decided to change that...usually cars are manual/auto capable and its just the difference of the manual compnents, but neways glad to hear its going well!PhantomTEG on Feb/26/04 said:Trans mount I used an aftermarket mount otherwise rewelding of the passengerside upper trans mount is needed.. OEM manual trans mount WILL NOT FIT, I tried I'll get the brand name soon
youll love rowing it thru the gears
1 - 15 of 15 Posts
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