Team Integra Forums banner

1 - 12 of 12 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
8 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
The other day I was coming off the interstate, car noticed the car was cutting out (no fuel) and was bucking when pulling from a stop. Well it made it about 1/2 a mile and I could no longer get it rolling from a stop. Every time I would release the clutch and give it a little gas it would just cut out and buck me forward.
Tried troubleshooting a little to no avail, let it sit til night and it ran like normal- until it reached operating temp and then it started doing the same thing. Basically any throttle over about 5 percent I will lose all power completely, A/F gauge will cut out and be blank. And this is only when it’s hot.

Replaced the spark plug wires, ICM and ignition coil but still nothing. I’ve searched all around and found possible culprits, but there’s not a single CEL being thrown. So I’m at a loss.

Car is tuned with S300
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
74 Posts
Did you check your actual spark plugs? I would have guessed the ICM (ignitor) or coil, but you said you replaced them. It can only be ignition, fuel, or electrical.

When you say lose power completely, does that mean the radio is shutting off too? That would make me think your battery has a loose terminal or you might have a bad ground somewhere.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
8 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
I have not checked the plugs. But I figured since it runs fine when cold it wouldn’t be the plugs?

Sorry I didn’t clarify, when I say lose power I meant all engine power. All else electrical works fine. It will idle just fine too but as soon as I put into gear and try and go it just craps out.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
2,584 Posts
Two additional things for you to look at. 1. Throttle position sensor - i had that go goofy on me when the car got to operating temps and it would buck back and forth and lose power intermittently.

2. Car stuck in open loop - i'm currently fighting that issue on my car. When it hits operating temps, it cant get into open loop and the car sputters and has zero power on tap.

what year is your car? you said it is tuned on s300, what are your mods?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
8 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
So just check the voltage on the sensor or what?

Being stuck in open loop would essentially mean that the O2 sensor is shot right?

The car is a 96, with a stock ls block, skunk cams and gears etc, 1000cc injectors, 50 mm turbo.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
2,584 Posts
Right, check the voltages to make sure they are within spec, i want to say it was .50 volts closed throttle and 4.5 or 5 with the throttle completely opened. I cant recall for certain, but there are threads around on that.

Stuck in open loop may not necessarily mean a bad o2 sensor as i am finding out, there are a lot of other things that work together to make the car go into closed loop.

so far my knowledge of troubleshooting basically only goes with stock-er cars, i cant say if being the forced induction stuff complicates the troubleshooting process any further.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
8 Posts
Discussion Starter #7
Looking at the tune that’s on the car now, closed loop is disabled already under parameters so it’s supposed to run open loop constantly.

I can check the voltages and see if anything is funky, I do know that Hondata showed a voltage of 3-3.8V on the o2 sensor when hot. I don’t think that’s normal but I could be wrong.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
9 Posts
I had same issues that youre having just not as intense, but it was my TPS sensor, took a crap but it threw a code, this was on a stock GSR. I would also check your o2 sensor. Theres a simple test you can do. Ive had one wideband o2 sensor go bad on me when I was turbo.

Pull the o2 sensor out.
spray brake cleaner on a rag.
turn key to on.
cover o2 sensor with rag.
check your AFR gauge, if its working correctly it will read full rich
remove the rag and it will slowly lean out.
You want to see a full range of rich to lean and it shouldnt take forever to get there.

If it is your o2 Amazon Prime has them for $40
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
8 Posts
Discussion Starter #9
Okay sorry for no updates but I wasn’t able to work until tonight. I checked the tps and map voltage, .13V and 5V respectfully. The map seemed a little high.

Tried driving back to my place when cold and now the car does this all the time. Doesn’t matter if it’s cold or not it will not move under any throttle whatsoever. The spark plugs should be here Monday and I’ll test the o2 sensor tomorrow.

The problem is getting progressively worse and it’s really bugging me so hopefully I can figure it out soon.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2 Posts
I've had a similar problem turned out it was a warped distributor cap. Car ran fine cold and would run worse the hotter it got until eventually wouldn't run. Once it cold off it would start right up and run fine until it got hot again.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
704 Posts
On my Integra, it was the TPS or wiring harness causing my issue. It still calibrated correctly, but the bucking would happen without a CEL. Ended up replacing both.

In my case, everytime I would replace the TPS the issue would go away, but then come back. But since I replaced the harness, I havent had the issue appear since.
 
1 - 12 of 12 Posts
Top