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CAR: 1997 Acura Integra GS (OBD2)
Head: JDM b16a1
Block: B18b1
ECU: stock B18B (OBD2) ECU
OBD2 (GSR) ECU

1. Should I use the OBD2 GSR ECU or purchase a OBD1 ECU & OBD2-OBD1 jumper?

2. If I use the OBD2 GSR ECU, how do I over ride the knock sensor & and get my vtec to work since I don't have any wires hooked up to the Vtec solenoid?

3. If I purchase a OBD1 ECU & a jumper, what wires do I have to run?

4. Which OBD1 ECU should I get? Are the so called Mugen/Spoon/Jun/Skunk2 "chips" worth the extra $50-$80?

Thank you for any information. I've rebuilt my short block w/ new bearings, balanced crank, shot peened rods, & ITR pistons. I've only added CTR cams & skunk2 cam gears for my head. I didn't have the CR tested, but I'm assuming that my CR will be roughly 11:1, is that true? I didn't have the head milled, except for making sure it was flat. Do you have any other recommendations on what I should do, in order to achieve 200whp? thanks again.
 

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1. use the GSR ECU. you don't have to do an OBD1 coversion if you don't want to. I hope you know why you would want to (like if you bought a Hondata system for tuning).

2. install the knock sensor and connect it up to the GSR ECU. c-speedracing.com shows you how to do it on their How To section under LS/VTEC.

3. You run the OBD2 harness and connect or plug them to the OBD1 connector harness which then plugs into the OBD1 ECU. There is no specific wire to wire splicing. The company that sells the OBD1 conversion harness did that for you already. You just connect the male plug to the female plug.

4. OBD1 ECU's in cars which had VTEC: P28, P30, P61, P72, P73. The companies you listed like Mugen sell the reprogrammed PROM not the entire ECU. Now if you have not read my article on ECU programs that are 1 size fits all and full of compromises and why you should not get one, then please do so now...it's in the Performance section of the articles. thanks.
 
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