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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Been having low oil pressure problems on my 95 GSR. Spec says 10psi minimum at idle and 50psi at 3000 rpm. I've replaced the oil pump with a Type R pump and it will still dip at or below 10psi at idle and will just barely make 50psi at 3000rpm. But at higher rpm, it seems to have no problem getting above 60-70.

I've changed to 20W50 oil which at helped a little, but considering I've heard most GSRs are over 20psi at idle, I'm losing pressure somewhere. one possibility could be the oil squirters not holding the check ball in place at lower pressures. Before I tear it apart again, has anyone heard of this happening?
 

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Low oil pressure can be caused by a few things.

First make sure that whatever gauge you are using is accurate and that you are seeing a problem that doesn't really exist.

ok assuming you do have a problem, low oil pressure will be caused by a worn out engine from items such as the crank journals worn too far out of spec.

I'm going to go out on a limb and suggest you look at the oil pump assembly, specifically the relief valve and spring. These items control the actual oil pressure in the system and if the spring is weak, broken or gummed up you will have lower than expected oil pressure. You can find a diagram on page 8-10 of the manual.

The way the relief valve works is once the system reaches a set amount of pressure the pressure relief valve will start to open allow oil to bypass the engine oil galleys and go directly back to the sump (oil pan). If the spring is opening to early you won't get enough pressure build up and will be seen as a low oil condition.

Also the oil pump, provided it isn't physically broken, or have its seals leaking (badly) it will produce oil pressure,, the pump is known as a "positive displacement pump" and are common with hydraulics.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I replaced my oil pump with a new Acura Type R, so I don't think I have issues with the pump. The oil pressure made a couple psi improvement with the new pump. I think my oil pressure guage is accurate since I can occasionally see the oil pressure light flicker at idle (which is why I got the oil pressure guage).

I guess I could have worn crank journals, but I would think if they were worn so bad that I'm losing about 1/2 my oil pressure, I'd think I would have already blown the thing up or be hearing some ominous sounds out of it. I'm hoping it's something like the oil squirters, but have been a T-I member for a little over a year and have never heard of anyone having problems with them.
 

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Here is my question for you, is the oil pressure gauge reading off the same spot as the idiot light? if so verify the oil pressure sender so you can make sure your not chasing an imaginary problem.

If the oil pressure sender is correct you may want to drop the pan and make sure the pickup tube and screen are not plugged up too.

You can always increase the oil pressure by increasing the spring tension on the oil control valve (as long as the pickup tube isn't plugged), however make sure you don't make it so high that it blows the oil filter can off.

Lastly, the oil filter will not hurt your oil pressure problems. All oil filters have a bypass valve in them. basically if the media gets too clogged and too much pressure builds up, the bypass valve opens and allows unfiltered oil through the system.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
nj-acura on Sep/16/07 said:
Here is my question for you, is the oil pressure gauge reading off the same spot as the idiot light? if so verify the oil pressure sender so you can make sure your not chasing an imaginary problem.

If the oil pressure sender is correct you may want to drop the pan and make sure the pickup tube and screen are not plugged up too.

You can always increase the oil pressure by increasing the spring tension on the oil control valve (as long as the pickup tube isn't plugged), however make sure you don't make it so high that it blows the oil filter can off.

Lastly, the oil filter will not hurt your oil pressure problems. All oil filters have a bypass valve in them. basically if the media gets too clogged and too much pressure builds up, the bypass valve opens and allows unfiltered oil through the system.

My oil pressure gauge sender is attached to an oil filter sandwich in front of the oil filter.

I checked the screen on the pickup tube when I replaced the pump and it was fine.

I've never heard of increasing pressure on the oil control valve. Is this the relief valve on the oil pump? How do you do this?

Thanks for the responses.
 

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I personally hate fram. Their design for oil filters is outdated. Heres why:

Honda uses a rolled gasket on their oil filters, that always stays with the filter when you remove it. The fram filter's gasket almost ALWAYS sticks to the block when you remove them. If you dont catch this, you can put the new filter on with the old gasket still there. This will cause you to lose all of your oil fairly quickly. I did this, and nearly blew up my motor. Luckily I caught it in time, and shut the engine off. So be careful that you take the gasket off when you remove the fliter.

I have recently made the switch to OEM honda for a few reasons. First is the gasket, the OEM filters dont have this problem. Secondly, the OEM gaskets are known (rumored, perhaps), to give the engine higher oil pressure, especially in VTEC. I have yet to see concrete proof of this, but the extra dollar or two I spend on an OEM filter is worth it to me, so I run OEM Honda filters now. Hope this helps!
 

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I've gone through probably 18 to 20 FRAM oil filters on various cars and have never had a problem with them "almost ALWAYS" separating on removal. Hell I had one on there so hard (on my celica) that it took 20 min to get off, but nothing about it fell apart or separated.

ANyway, this isn't the point of the thread.

As far as your oil pressure goes, I'd definitely try moving your oil pressure gauge to a different part on the engine, if you still get the same reading I'd take the pan off and check for debris clogging up the screen and pickup tube. If that still doesn't fix your problem, then you've got something serious going on most likely.
 

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I personally wouldn't remove the oil squirters, but if you want to I think you can get to them by just removing the oil pan. You'll probably just have to put a breaker bar on the crank pulley bolt and cycle the engine to get the crank out of the way as you go through each one.
 

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NicCantDecide on Sep/16/07 said:
I've gone through probably 18 to 20 FRAM oil filters on various cars and have never had a problem with them "almost ALWAYS" separating on removal. Hell I had one on there so hard (on my celica) that it took 20 min to get off, but nothing about it fell apart or separated.
Lucky you. Ive used 3. All 3, the gasket stuck to the block.
 

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Try an OEM honda oil filter first off....yea, there isnt anything "wrong" with a fram, but I've had bad luck with them in the past and the filter can make a difference. The oil "check" valve that "increases" pressure is actually the relief spring that sets max pressure that only occurs at 5k or whatever (basically it blows off pressure at 70psi or something around that point)....thus, replacing it isnt going to help. I would find it more likely that you have an internal oil leak then the bearings being out of spec to the point that you have low pressure. Have you seen how much oil dumps out over the cam lobs? Its ALOT more then oil squirters....thus, I'd roll w/ the oil filter idea first....its cheap and easy to do. Also, you dont have anything dumb going on, like your vtec point set at idle, on constantly or anything like that right? Because feeding the oil into the rockers will decrease pressure, which is unsafe at lower rpms.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
integra366 on Sep/16/07 said:
Try an OEM honda oil filter first off....yea, there isnt anything "wrong" with a fram, but I've had bad luck with them in the past and the filter can make a difference. The oil "check" valve that "increases" pressure is actually the relief spring that sets max pressure that only occurs at 5k or whatever (basically it blows off pressure at 70psi or something around that point)....thus, replacing it isnt going to help. I would find it more likely that you have an internal oil leak then the bearings being out of spec to the point that you have low pressure. Have you seen how much oil dumps out over the cam lobs? Its ALOT more then oil squirters....thus, I'd roll w/ the oil filter idea first....its cheap and easy to do. Also, you dont have anything dumb going on, like your vtec point set at idle, on constantly or anything like that right? Because feeding the oil into the rockers will decrease pressure, which is unsafe at lower rpms.
I can't argue with you on trying an OEM filter for being a cheap and easy thing to try before I dig into it further. It might not make a difference, but it isn't going to hurt to put a Honda filter on the car.

If I do have an internal oil leak, God knows how I will be able to find it. I don't know if it is related, I've had the car for 3 years and put a new head on it last year. A few thousand miles after the new head was on, I would occasionally get a CEL when hitting Vtec and then the oil pressure light would occasionally flicker when the idle dropped below 600rpm. In the past month, this got worse and would always flicker at idle. That's when I got the oil pressure gauge, replaced the oil pump, and went to 20W50 oil. Now it is barely at the minimum oil pressure spec so am open for ideas. Since the squirters are not supposed to open until 28psi and my problem seems to bemore at lower rpms, I'm thinking they could be a possibility. once over 5K rpm, it's pegging against the 70psi relief valve.
 

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If your going to try a different oil filter, id try a Hamp filter.. They supposedly raise oil press by nearly 5psi, at least thats what ive heard about them.... hell, worth a try IMO..
 
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