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Discussion Starter #1
my engine idles low and it feels like it's about to die..(between 2nd-3rd line on the rpms). it usually happens whenever i push my car hard...not hard like i'm killing it, but i gotta get to where i'm going quick, kinda hard. anyways, lets say i'm at a stop light, my exhaust sounds like it doing some kinda of bass drum beat. the whole thing feels like it's gonna die. and if i push some gas, rpms would go up and when i let go...the needle DROPS (falls like a brick) and catches itself at the first line, just almost about to die, but doesn't. then it goes back to that drumbeat. i dunno what's up with it. distributor, wires, spark plugs were changed, compression tests taken by three different mechanics all saying it's normal. anyone have any ideas what's up here?
 

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I have a similar problem. When I'm idling at a light, the rpms drop to like 500 and it starts to chug a bit as if its gonna die, then I guess the IAC opens up an the rpms shoot up to 1100, then it slowly falls back to 500 rpm and repeats. Whole proces takes about 10 seconds or so.

I've been chasing this one for a while. First assumption of course was the IAC valve so I took it off and clean it out with TB cleaner. Problem is still there.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
how do i go about resetting the idle time? i read somewhere about adjusting something on the throttle body...i'm gonna try that out. blackaddr, i think yours is a different problem. mines is constant, whenever i'm in neutral. i'ma ask my brother about what you have. i think i've heard mention something that sounds like what you have.
 

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idling problems (too high or too low) should always be stated in the context of whether they are occurring when the engine is cold vs. after it has been warmed up AND whether this occurs while other accessories are on (like A/C ) or while turning the steering wheel.

warmed up, low idle without steering input or A/C problems are either due to needing an idle adjust screw adjustment (on your TB), a malfunctioning IACV (very common in older Tegs), or an alternator connection problem.

It's always a good maintenance thing to buy one of those electrical connector cleaner sprays (get it from Acura) and clean out all your connectors/contacts. It's something that's an "attention to detail" item you can do that the dealership rarely does for you and is not a task or listed as part of your routine maintenance schedule items in your owner's manual.

thanks
 

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Discussion Starter #7
thanks! yeah...it happens when its all warmed up. i just adjusted the screw on the TB and took it out around the block...i'm on my lunch break right now. but...it's still going on. i'll go check out my iacv and alternator once i get the chance. Thanks!
 

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My engine idles around 500 warm or cold. Yesterday though, i started giving it gas and pulling forward and the entire car really shook the sh*t out of me(engine was cold when this happened). I don't know much about cars, but it felt like it wasn't getting gas or something. Similar to when you just let the clutch out without giving it gas, but it was a much more violent shake, not so much of a jump.

What should a 97 GSR with nothing but an intake idle at?
 

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500 rpm is fine.

stock idle is 750 +/- 250 rpm from the Helms manual and stated a million times in many idle threads.

for people with high rpm idle problems, here is the COMMoN TOPIC thread over in Performance forum and the bad idle help links page in the COMMoN TOPICS.

also please search in the advanced search under "erratic idle" in the Topics window and this Gen 3 forum and you'll find a ton of old posts on this to help you solve the problem...the answer is using a systematic approach (see the Helms manual in the fuel chapter) and not a bunch of random wild guesses.
 

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Ye, 500 RPM is normal idling for an integra. My suggestion to you is to buy a Haynes Repair Manual. THey explain a lot of things in there, including your problem. A quick explanation though is, sounds like you need to mess with your IAC, then reset the ECU. Buy the repair manual or look it up, easy fix, just a little bolt.
 

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man, ma car always idel at around 700-800ish.. i know its fine and all, .. but just wanted to throw that in there...lol

And MD has neone ever told u.. DUDE U ROCK>>

man its such a privilage to have u as a member of our TI family..
 

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My car does that after i drive it for minutes or so too like at a redlight it drops to under 1000...but when i start my car its like almost 2000
 

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i asked the guys on boosted hybrid about this and Jeff Evans (owner) responded with:

Its the fast idle thermo valve located underneath the throttle body. I have to constantly fix this on obd-1 customers car before tuning sessions, with high miles they tend to back out and get loose. This creates a vacuum leak, and causes the idle to be irratic.

-------------------------------------------

it seems that this problem is actually quite common and this is the cause of the problem more often then not, i have to take apart my throttle body this weekend and i will let you guys know the outcome..
 

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JersNb18c on Dec/22/04 said:
1st thing u should do.......check battery voltage and charging system voltage.
what is the easiest way to do this... with a volt meter?

what should the reading say?
 

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I dont think its an IAC problem, I think you're missing on a cylinder.

When cars have hot-start problems, where they miss on a cylinder, and the car vibrates/idles low, it's an ignition thing. This sounds like the same thing.

Cap, rotor, wires, plugs replacement time.
 

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**********
well the car's been running fine (except for the idle sticking at 2k rpms sometimes)

so today i:
changed the OIL
installed new NGK Plug wires
Cleaned, and recleaned the IACV

and i just took her around the block... low low low idle... like everyone else is saying.

so right now i'm reseting my ECU, maybe the new CLEANED IACV is working properly now, and the ECU cant figure it out yet?
 

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Ya I have a low idle too. Oh and dont think I'm an idiot, cause I already know it, im pretty new with cars but im learning. Whats an IACV?
 

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I actually just experienced the same problem earler today... Well, much earlier... (if you check out the time of my post
)

I was doing a valve adjustment and, personally, I think it's just that I might've plugged my spark plug wires in wrong...for some odd reason, as simple as it is. (I was kind of in a hurry after I got the valve cover back on). But, I'm also smelling something that I can only describe as a "burning rubber" type smell. I can't explain why. Nothing I did would have caused that. But, the low idle and shaking are also there, too. Except that, in this case, (it might be the same in everyone elses), I get my check engine light to flash if I start to "push it" at all. The only safe zone for it, seems to be between 1k and 3k rpms.

I definately keep this car maintainted and pretty much all general maintenance is done when it needs to be done. So, I'm not worried about anything like that going out on it. (I'm sure everyone else here has the same mindset anyways ^_^) Any help would be greatly appreciated.
 

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Quick update::

Just checked all the spark plugs/wires and distributor. Still same problem. *sigh* Can't seem to figure out what it is right now. Frustration doesn't even begin to describe it. Since it worked fine an hour before I took the wires out and the cover off...

Any suggestions would be helpful. I still feel it's just the wires. But, my Haynes manual that shows the plug order... well, it sounds worse if I change it to that particular order. I know it sounds odd, but, it's true.
 
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