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so is uneven pad wear a problem when using the dual piston calipers since we have to use them on the opposite sides compared to the legends?
 

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*** Removed by user at Jan 11 2011 8:03PM (Server Time) ***

Okay, I'm thinking of going with this brake setup for my 95 gsr:

Front:
ITR front calipers with the bracket milled down 3mm
ITR front 11.1" Brembo cross drilled rotors, re-drilled to 4x100

Rear:
ITR rear calipers
ITR rear 10.2" Brembo cross drilled rotors, re-drilled to 4x100

I really chose this, soley, because I want to use Brembo cross drilled, cadmium coated rotors but they don't make those for 92-96 prelude vtec. I love the way they look and am willing to pay extra for aesthetics. My questions are: From my understanding with this set up the bleeders will be in the right direction and I will be able to get the rotors re-drilled without any issue. However, will I need to get the rear caliper bracket milled down as well? Are there any other compatibility issues or additional items I will need to buy? Lastly, any recommendations on stainless steel brake lines, as in brands or types?

Also any insight or advice would be appreciated.

on a side note, I got a really good deal on the ITR front calipers but they are dirty as hell! In the threads I've read people suggested simple green or brake cleaner used with a wire brush. However I'm a little leery, I'd really like someone with first hand experience to recommend a product or cleaning process. My main concern is to finding something that will be friendly to the rubber seals on the caliper. Please PM me with any suggestions related to cleaning so the thread doesn't get off topic. Thanks!!
 

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Old thread but hopefully someone has the answer to this.

With the Legend caliper swap and 92-96 prelude rotors that are 4x114. Would the 88-91 Prelude Si rotors work? They are already 4x100 and are actually 10.3" in diameter and eliminates the re-drilling vs the 92-96 10.2" diameter.
 

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If you use those rotors, you will have same size as stock integra rotors, and the whole point of the swap is to have more braking surface (11in rotor)
I am going to do this swap in about a week and I just have one question: has anyone tried using 3mm spacer between rotor and a hub instead of grinding 3mm from the bracket? I know it will offset my wheels but with my set up its not gonna hurt anything
 

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yup, I use a 3mm spacer on my dedicated racecar. No issues. My friend (National HC champ) used the same setup with no issues either. The key is to make the spacer have full contact between the hub and the backside of the rotor. Fastbrakes used to sell 3mm washers to go on the studs. But then you have a 3mm GAP between the rotor and the hub creating a heat insulating barrier that didn't allow the heat to dissapate into the hub. Brake fade among other problems was the end result and they don't sell that kit anymore.
 

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^ That is one way to do it for sure. That would actually give you the same stock hub offset as an R.

only issue I see with that is that you'll likely lose your hub-centric lip due to the spacer. Stock cars have a ring in the middle of the hub that centers the wheel. A spacer might bury it so it's no longer functional.
 

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MeltMan on Jul/21/08 said:
Here's a listing of compatable pads:

# 97-99 CL 3.0L
# 97-01 Integra Type-R
# 91-95 Legend
# 91-04 NSX
# 96-98 RL
# 95-98 TL
# 98-02 Accord Coupe V6
# 95-02 Accord Sedan V6
# 91-97 Accord Wgn
# 97-01 Prelude
# 92-96 Prelude VTEC


These front pads are all the same part.
So which brake pad would be the best to use for this upgrade?
 

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"kc-db1
Alright, I finally got around to doing this and to be honest the amount of trouble I've had it with... just makes it not worth while.
I used prelude rotors on the front, legend pads, legend dual piston calipers russell brake lines. on the rear I used EP3 rotors, EP3 caliper (and pads) brackets, DC calipers and russell brake lines. Stock 15/16th MC/Booster and DOT4 Fluid. The calipers are mounted with the bleeder facing upward. I drove the car for a little bit after getting everything together, got on the high way and went about 2 miles. If I let off the gas the car would immediately start to slow down, so I got off on at an exit, pulled over and my front brakes are smoking something fierce. So, I let it cool so I can get it home. I get it home, pop the calipers loose and pull the pads to remove the shims. I removed the shims, put it back together. Did the same exact thing. So I track down a set of reman'd calipers for the front and and put em on... The car is doing the same bullshit it was yesterday, but not as bad. Now, yesterday when we put the stuff all together we adjusted the pedal because we felt it was too low. Should I adjust it back out, do you think maybe its dragging because of this? Any insight from the guys who know what they're talking about would be very helpful."

I'm having this same issue. More so on the left caliper. I've got the mini rotors and tsx pads setup. Initially I thought it was the new pads being a little new and snug but I did a few 60-20 brake stops to try to bed them in and they're smoking something fierce. I had a minor issue bleeding the FL caliper, air was coming out of the base of the bleeder and not out the tip, eventually after about 10 tries, it started properly bleeding. At cold start nothing rubs but when i press the brake there's a minor pause before the brake enforced, then a massive bite and the FL wheel locks and skids. Im going to disassemble and redo the slide pins adding more silicon grease and making sure everything sits flush. Any other thoughts? Im running the calipers with the bleeder facing down and using the 2x4 technique to bleed. Another worry was the brake line is pulled extremely taught when the setup is mounted, could that also be the issue or does that usually only happen when the wheels off and the hub settles a little?
 
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