Team Integra Forums banner

61 - 80 of 116 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
21,509 Posts
blkdc2gsr on Jul/17/08 said:
ok but is the legend upgrade better than the itr/accord caliper upgrade?

is the 2 piston vs 1 piston that much better?


Honestly, they are about the same as far as stopping distances are concerned.

I read a thread on H-T that said the Legends just felt different under light braking pressure than the ITR/Accord V6 ones did. Felt smoother, like they were out of a luxury sedan (duh!).

If you do the math and calculate the area of the legend pistons added together it is less by a tiny bit than the ITR/Accord v6 calipers. Not significantly smaller, but smaller area none the less.

I got legend calipers because they sound cooler being 2 piston and all. :) The price was the same for either legend or accord V6 calipers.
And the whole more even pad wear thing, but that really didn't factor in much.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
47 Posts
powderman on May/16/08 said:
I wonder if anyone noticed his calipers are on the wrong side ,this is due to the Legend mounting them behind the wheel as opposed to in front of the wheel on the Teg,so you have to swap sides to make the bleeders upright.
I did these on my accord and your supposed to mount them with the smaller piston facing up (so it hits the wheel first when moving forward), which results (at least on the accord) with the brakes being upside down (and unbleedable). After an unfortunate test where I failed to realize this and almost wrecked, the brakes were bench bled (off the mount), and all problems solved)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
106 Posts
kc-db1 on Jul/17/08 said:
Quote: SDintegraGS on Jul/17/08I cant find the prelude rotors on fast-brakes.com
i must be blind




You just need 11" rotors for 4x100 off their site. I think a pair of OE's are 90 and drilled/slotted are $150.

http://fastbrakes.com/shop/product_info.php?cPath=23_52_254&products_id=1044

http://fastbrakes.com/shop/product_info.php?cPath=23_52_254&products_id=1043

ahh thank you very much sir

also in your picture what set up are the rear calipers and discs. EP3?

also does anyone know roughly how much shops charge for sand blasting and powder coating? Actually I dont even know what kind of shop does a job like this. Paint and body?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
831 Posts
No, not necessarily. The pads are the same size/shape and will fit, but the stock ITR pads are actually a pretty agressive pad, whereas say the Accord pad is more civilized. Just a small difference, but worth mentioning.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
215 Posts
ok ya that makes sense, the compound is different but the physical size etc is the same




just a question but will the 5th gen prelude calipers work??? a local guy is selling some

thanks
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
47 Posts
one more thing I thought of, is that you should keep a close eye on the brake fluid level, and definately dont let the pads wear down too far. on the accord (sorry, its all I know for this mod),

Since their is now more 'area/volume' behind the pistons, the upgraded calipers use more fluid vs the stock brakes. as long as you keep it topped off it shouldnt be a problem. The other thing that had me spooked on the accord was running out the MC if the pads were worn too far down (causing the pistons to be almost fully extended) and the resulting amount of additional fluid.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,706 Posts
it shouldn't i have been running nsx & spoon calipers on my R for a while or back when i had it &i never had a issue.

reason i didn't go with the legend calipers is that Legend caliper mount on the rear of the Legend rotor with the bleeders on the other end in order to keep them on top... so if you were going to use a rear mount caliper on a front mount car, you would have to switch sides in order to have your bleeder in the required position... Confused yet?

Well to add to that, multi piston calipers use different sized pistons front to rear in order to combat "pad taper" or uneven pad wear due to basic physics. If you "swap sides", simple logic would suggest that now you are inducing uneven pad wear due to the larger piston's pushing on the leading edge of the pad instead of the trailing edge of the pad... I don't know, however, if it would be any worse than the OE single pistons "taper wear"... esp if it were only used on the street vs heavy track use.

where it is my understanding, that the most uneven wear is prevalent... I've only seen really bad taper, of 1mm to as much as 3mm difference from one end of the pad to the other on pads used in single piston calipers that have had the **** beat out of them on the track... i would assume that for a DD vehicle its ok but that why i went with the nsx & spoon calipers no need to switch them over they are front mounted calipers, but they are allot more $$$$$ just figured i would share

-Jose

(ps. most of that info i got from fastbrakes.com several years ago when i was in the market for brakes, Great guys
)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
432 Posts
To avoid the problems he brought up you can mount the legend calipers onto the car but bleed them off the car using a block of wood.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
928 Posts
kc-db1 on Aug/20/08 said:
To avoid the problems he brought up you can mount the legend calipers onto the car but bleed them off the car using a block of wood.
Do you mean "a block of wood" in terms you stick that block of wood between the two pads, while in the caliper, so it presses against the block (so the bleeder screw to be pointing up) to bleed the brakes?

Just want to clarify it for other people and myself as I am wanting to do this upgrade as well.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
432 Posts
DARKNGL on Aug/20/08 said:
Quote: kc-db1 on Aug/20/08To avoid the problems he brought up you can mount the legend calipers onto the car but bleed them off the car using a block of wood.

Do you mean "a block of wood" in terms you stick that block of wood between the two pads, while in the caliper, so it presses against the block (so the bleeder screw to be pointing up) to bleed the brakes?

Just want to clarify it for other people and myself as I am wanting to do this upgrade as well.
Yes.

Got mine finished today.

 

·
Registered
Joined
·
432 Posts
Alright, I finally got around to doing this and to be honest the amount of trouble I've had it with... just makes it not worth while.

I used prelude rotors on the front, legend pads, legend dual piston calipers russell brake lines. on the rear I used EP3 rotors, EP3 caliper (and pads) brackets, DC calipers and russell brake lines. Stock 15/16th MC/Booster and DOT4 Fluid. The calipers are mounted with the bleeder facing upward.

I drove the car for a little bit after getting everything together, got on the high way and went about 2 miles. If I let off the gas the car would immediately start to slow down, so I got off on at an exit, pulled over and my front brakes are smoking something fierce. So, I let it cool so I can get it home.

I get it home, pop the calipers loose and pull the pads to remove the shims. I removed the shims, put it back together. Did the same exact thing. So I track down a set of reman'd calipers for the front and and put em on...

The car is doing the same bullshit it was yesterday, but not as bad.

Now, yesterday when we put the stuff all together we adjusted the pedal because we felt it was too low. Should I adjust it back out, do you think maybe its dragging because of this?

Any insight from the guys who know what they're talking about would be very helpful.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
432 Posts
The work:

In order to get the Legend calipers to clear the rotor you need to shave off approximately 3mm from the carrier bracket.

At first I decided to use my dremel




After breaking off about 6 grinding bits and not making much progress at all, I retired that idea


I was really bummed out a for a minute there but then I looked in my tool box and remembered something...

AIR TOOLS JACKASS!!!!

serious business bits


Grinding begins again and progress is made, the serious business kind



Piles of metal dust everywhere
I don't get why the mounting bracket had to be shaved.
The Legend GS rotors are 28mm thick, while the prelude rotors are 23mm thick. You should have 5mm of space to fill between the caliper and the rotors. Why are you having clearance issues?
 
61 - 80 of 116 Posts
Top