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I looked up old posts about what rpm is good to launch at, and I found several posts about launching in m/t. But I have an a/t gs, and was wondering if i should launch at about the same as m/t, or would it be better to launch at a different rpm? If so, what rpm would be good for a/t?
 

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if you like your tranny then launch by releasing the brake and mashing the gas (but not pressing the gas before releasing the brake... trying to lauch at a higher rpm with kill the auto tranny fast.
 

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ive launched my auto LS at redline before, but I wouldnt recommend it. only do it if you really really need to. It gives you a hellified launch, but its only a matter of time before your transmission bails
 

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how do you launch a auto at redline, n-bomb?
 

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hpracing007 on Feb/15/04 said:
how do you launch a auto at redline, n-bomb?
or one helluva torque converter?
 

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Personally, I don't even launch at a set rpm, I just floor it when the light turn green and let off very slightly if I hear anything more than light squealing.
 

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dont try to launch and auto thats the key... or get a manual.. mine will be done in like 2 days
 

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PhantomTEG on Feb/15/04 said:
dont try to launch and auto thats the key
What? This has been covered before but I believe the best way to launch in an auto is to powerbrake. Keep the rpms under 1800 and then release the brakes. If you go any higher the tranny will start in second gear and then downshift.
 

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Obviously he's reffering to what RPM to do a neutral drop from.

Any of you guys with A/T's shoulda known that the only answer to that question is:

DoNT DO NEUTRAL DROPS!

You have no idea just how fast neutral drops will destroy the delicate bands in the transmission. My dumbass friend had a 97' eclipse GS auto and totally blew it within 3 weeks of repeated drops,

The same thing goes for integras. It doesnt take too many drops to kill an A/T, and it takes even less to make it shift like sh*t.

The only way to "launch" an A/T is:

A: Power braking
B: A tranny brake.

They both accomplish the same thing, forcing the input side of the torque converter to spin up while the output side is locked. Power braking does this through you're stepping on the brakes, a tranny brake physicly locks the transmission.

You'll find that you're car lacks the torque and the stall speed to get much of a launch out of either of these methods, but it definetly beats a destroyed transmission.
 

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I understood that, in my car if I powerbrake over 1,800rpms the car bogs and then picks up, like it's trying to decide which gear to shift too. I actually have been testing it alot this past week or so, and as far as I can tell the "best" way is to just mash the gas from a dead stop, but not completely to the floor to avoid wheelspin.
 

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Not an integra transmission, but they're all bassicly the same inside, clutches, bands, and gears.

The neutral drops f**k up the clutches too, but the shock of a full power drop does the most damage to the fragile metal bands. They were designed to shift the car into gear at idle, not absorb the engines full power output while engaging first. They'll be destroyed FAST
 

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Hakamoto on Jun/03/04 said:
I understood that, in my car if I powerbrake over 1,800rpms the car bogs and then picks up, like it's trying to decide which gear to shift too. I actually have been testing it alot this past week or so, and as far as I can tell the "best" way is to just mash the gas from a dead stop, but not completely to the floor to avoid wheelspin.
With an auto, if you're just driving it in a straight line, you're best of just mashing the gas and go, it's been covered a thousand times. If you're driving the car through something with corners aggresively, it doesnt hurt to shift it so it doesnt upshift everytime you let of the gas during a turn.
 
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