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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Well, I just finished getting the jdm b18c motor in my GS-R. Now, when I try to start it, it acted like it wanted to start, but then just shook the car violently and sputtered like it was firing out of order or something and died after it turned over once or so. After that it threw code 10, "Intake Air Temp." I checked, and sure enough I had the wrong clip plugged into the IAT sensor. The right clip was just dangling behind the intake manifold. Now the clip that WAS in there is just dangling. Its bundled with a clip that clips into the throttle body, I don't think it's the throttle position sensor, thats located on the side of the TB toward the rear of the car, right? This is toward the front. So I don't know where the clip that is a duplicate of that clip goes.

Anyway, having fixed that problem, now there is no CEL. Hooray! Unfortunately all that means is i have no way to diagnose my problem
. Now when I start the car I get a loud POP. Kinda like a backfire, but not from the exhaust.
And thats pretty much the end of the story. I don't know if the car dies after that. I'm just assuming it does, but as soon as I hear that I'm ready with the key to shut the ignition off. I wasn't expecting the motor to just fire up, so I was ready with quick hands to shut 'er down.

I pulled the plugs, and they are covered in gasoline. I smell a real heavy smell of gasoline. But when I ground the plugs on the valve cover and turn the car over, they all spark consistently.... Last I checked, gas + spark = fire. But that equation might not hold true if I were running on more than a combined 6 hours of sleep for the past two nights.

This motor is from hmotorsonline. I can't think of anything else atm, I'm terribly tired and need to go to bed.

If anybody has any ideas it would please me very much........



P.S. I WANT A CAR!
 

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you can always send it back since they have a start up gurantee.
 

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92BLKINTEGRA on Sep/20/07 said:
you can always send it back since they have a start up gurantee.
good point...it would be a pain to be engine-less for that period of time though.

My uneducated guess, and all I can think of, is maybe one of the cams is one tooth off and causing some bad misfiring...maybe?

I don't think you can rely on the CEL at this point cause usually it takes a second or two of the engine running for most codes to be thrown.

I say call up HMotors see what they can do for you...if they're gonna replace it, try it one last time and see if it starts and what it does...
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I'm not gonna pull the motor BACK out and load it up on a pallet and send it BACK to california.... I don't believe that's how it works, at least I hope not.

I just can't think of a reason that the motor would be out of time. If it was pulled from the car timed decent enough to run, it should go back INTO a car and be in time enough to run. I was thinkin there was something I hooked up improperly, but this sounds too serious to me to be a clip that is plugged in the wrong spot or a hose that still isnt connected.

Does anyone know what that clip is? It's grouped in the harness with the clip that goes in the throttle body, I'm at work and I forget which of the two clips it is, but the other TB clip isnt grouped with anything. The clip in question is a perfect fit for the IAT sensor up on top of the intake manifold, the wire is even the perfect length. I wish I still had my old motor and I would look and see, but I think this motor is minus a sensor. Although, I was told the JDM B18C was identical to the USDM B18C1 except for compression. And I later found out the vtec solenoid is different too, but that is resolved.

Also, i don't know if this could be related, but it's running on the stock USDM ecu right now. I figured it should run alright until the weekend when I can get it to the tuner to chip the ecu.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
mrmad on Sep/20/07 said:
I would disable the injectors so you quit flooding it, and get a timing light out and see where the ignition timing is.

How am I supposed to check the timing if the car won't run? Wouldn't it be hard to see the mark if I was only cranking over the motor. It would flash like once every second. Well I don't know, I'll give it a shot.

Oh, and I guess the clip goes to the IAB? Apparently they have identical clips, but I don't see it reaching all the way over to that side of the IM. In fact, there's no way it will.
 

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Thrasher865 on Sep/20/07 said:
I'm not gonna pull the motor BACK out and load it up on a pallet and send it BACK to california.... I don't believe that's how it works, at least I hope not.

Also, i don't know if this could be related, but it's running on the stock USDM ecu right now. I figured it should run alright until the weekend when I can get it to the tuner to chip the ecu.
Oh yes, that is how it works. I had to do that. I had all sorts of problems like you getting my motor started. And at the end of the 13 hr day when we got it to finally start right...rod knock.
We had to pull the motor and send it back. I just wanted a refund. only got half my money back due to the company being assholes and saying we demolished the motor and sent it back in bad shape. As far as the ecu, i ran a LS P75 with a JDM b16A. Ran fine, so that shouldnt be a problem for you right now.
 

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i remember having the same problems with my first swap. I reccomend using your helm manual ( i really hope you have one) to make sure you have the right connectors in the right places. Alot of the plugs look the same but the wire colors will tell you whiat is what. IT doesnt take much to make it not run but it will be a PITA troubleshooting it.

Your mystery lug is probablly for the iab. I had a ton of spare lugs left over from my gsr to itr swap i jsut had to sort through and find wire colors in the schematic to figure out which ones i needed.

You need to run the proper ECU, thats probablly majority of your problem. The jdm engine does not have soem of the sensors that the usdm ecu will look for. This will cause alot of cel's and will also cause the engine to run badly if it does crank.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Well, I'm thinkin I don't want to run the JDM ecu because of the speed governor at 110mph. Granted I have driven that fast in my car MAYBE 9 or 10 times in the four years I've had it. I usually save that for my bike
Call me a squid all you want.

Anyway, couldn't all those sensor problems be cleared up when I get my ECU chipped and tuned with crome?

I do have a recently acquired Helm manual, and I have read through the engine swap chapter, don't see anything I missed. All clips are clipped in. I don't know if they're all in the right place
I thought that the IAB and IAT were the only wires that had identical clips, at least that were decently close to one another. I'm thinkin I have bigger issues.

What was the problem when you did your swap?

From people I talked to on hondaswap.com, the jdm motor and usdm motor are identical, provided they are both OBD-I, which both of mine are.


SO does anyone know definitively if the JDM motor lacks those two sensors? And can I effectively check my timing with a timing light without running the motor?
 

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nevermind your talking obd1...i dont know about obd1. i know my 99 itr swap did not have a cfk sensor an oil pressure switch or a secondary o2 sensor.

I still say you need to use the jdm ecu, it was made for the engine. I tried to crank my enigne with the usdm gsr ecu and it would crank barley but it would die.

I had several plugs swapped around, got those in the right spots and it fired right up. User erroe on my part.

I can not emphasise how important it is to label everyhting!
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
ARGH! IM AN IDIOT!

Note to self: Always work from SIMPLEST to MOST DIFFICULT

Here I am about to take the valve cover off and look at the timing belt, when I just stop for a second and check the plug wires.

SURE ENOUGH, those wise guys at hmotors shipped it to me setup to fire 1-2-3-4, changed it to 1-3-4-2 and she fires right up and purrs like a kitten. Or more like shrieks like a scandinavian *****. I dont know what that means, but I need to adjust some belts when I get home. Other than that, no CELs, and no misfires. I still have that mysterious clip just hangin out next to the throttle body....... Any ideas?

BTW I did this over my lunch break, so at 5 I'll go home and adjust that belt and pray that she runs good. I can't bear to leave it running more than 5 seconds with that shrieking noise! And I need to go to Acura and pick up my shift linkage bushings that for some reason weren't on the car. There were a buttload of metal washers in the bushings stead. Sweet! I love ghetto cars.
 

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glad you got it fixed...forgot to mention i did the same thing during my first swap
. Happens tot he best of us.
 

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yeah... i was reading through your earlier posts and was thinking the whole time that your issue was the firing order. i got aggravated because the helmes manual lists the correct firing order but numbers the cylinders incorrectly and shows the distributor upside down and backwards... which caused me a headache when hooking the stuff up on my motor. but neway, gas in the combustion chamber is always an indication of sparking way out of time or not at all. also, having the iat sensor not hooked up will throw a code but your car is running in open loop at cold start neway so it shouldnt keep it from idling. i've seen alot of kids that mix their tps and map sensors up which will cause a problem at startup. soo... how much did you pay for the motor? i want a gsr motor too =)
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Well I already had a GSR motor
But it spun a rod bearing, so I bought this one off hmotorsonline.com for $1700 plus shipping. Just the motor, no transmission.

Edit: the thing is, it was shipped with the plug wires already installed, but I know they changed out the spark plugs before they shipped it, at least I think they did. I think they changed the oil filter too, it looked brand new. Anyway, I didn't even think to check it, because I assumed they just pulled the motor out and shipped it to me. And if it was running in the old car, I assumed it would still run fine in my car. Thats what I was assuming it was something that I did. Something I didnt hook up or something.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Yeah, I just noticed that I described the noise like it was "firing out of order."

WOULD HAVE BEEN A GOOD FIRST THING TO CHECK. God I feel stupid about now. It's hell just sitting here at work waiting to get off and see if it's gonna run good.... An hour and a half. I'm getting so anxious, I have done nothing for the past couple hours but surf T-I basically. I'm a worthless employee until I get my car fixed so they should just let me go home!
 
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