[BlurredVisions]

So here is the story. I have a 2000 Automatic Integra LS that I have already put some money into. It has an AEM V2, headers, exhaust, spark wires, rims, gauges, etc... I just recently purchased a turbo, manifold, and downpipe, but now I'm second guessing this situation. If I turbo my car, I will be spending a lot of money to maybe only push 200 hp, and yes I have looked into the ups and downs on turboing the automatic tranny. With all the parts and installation, I'm looking at maybe close to $2000.

The reason I'm second guessing is due to an idea I had. After checking out homemadeturbo.com's custom made individual throttle bodies, I thought it might be easier and cheaper just to make that and buy some bolt on performance parts for my engine and try to hit 200 hp that way. The thing is, I can't seem to find any information on ITB's and tuning them for a daily driver.

Help would be appreciated.

 

[Integra15lb]

1 itb's should be like the last thing added to a n/a motor,dont look for a huge increase on an otherwise stock motor.
2 A turbo charged auto would chew up and spit out an automatic with itbs on a mostly stock motor.


imo itb's should be the last piece of a fiercely built n/a beast that was actually a beast before the itb's even got there, for that last little bit of ummph from atomospheric pressure.

 

[MichaelDelaney]

I think if you are planning to spend 3-4 x more than $2K, you would consider ITB's. It isn't a matter of adding the ITB and magically you have a monster motor.

why did you fixate on ITB's?

are you planning to keep the LS auto tranny or upgrade?

 

[TheGSRGuy]

ITB thread 1

ITB thread 2

I got these by typing ITB into the search box. I hope they help you in making a decision whether or not to get ITBs.

 

[pothiawala786]

auto to manual swap would be around the same price and u'd have more fun with it. also dependable for a daily driver.

 

[BlurredVisions]

I liked the ITB's due to it being all motor and having a better reliability than a turbo, but after reading on honda-tech I've realized the tuning and everything involved might be a little much. Maybe I will stick to the turbo, but my car is a daily driver and I'm fearing the worst. Having my car out for a week or 2 due to some problem would mess up my commuting.

I was going to do the auto to manual swap after the turbo ripped the tranny to peices.

What wastegate would I use with the auto tranny though? 5 psi?

 

[TheGSRGuy]

Ask that question in the FI forum for a quicker answer.

 

[MichaelDelaney]

I liked the ITB's due to it being all motor and having a better reliability than a turbo...

there is no "better reliability than a turbo" with NA.

this whole notion that NA is somehow "more reliable" is a myth started and perpetuated by people who never went and did either of these at high hp levels before. If someone grenaded a turbo because of reliability issues then they went in without doing their homework.

when you get to the level of 200 whp, you are dealing with higher CR and custom fuel/ignition in NA and that makes it inherently "unreliable" if you screw that up.

if you fuel and ignition tune properly, a 200 whp turbo is as reliable as any 200 whp NA motor. So whoever is giving you that BS is an asshat spreading wrong info because they don't know either way (NA or turbo) of doing things properly and is obviously inexperienced. Please spread the right info and not the wrong info. Stay away from novices who pull things out of their asses and give out BS advice.


5 psi? that's nothing. Have you done the calculations to figure out how much boost you need to make for 200 whp for the plumbing you are running? (read this) Are you running an intercooler? Is your priority responsiveness or peak power? Start at 6-8 psi. You won't need a "good" wastegate like a Tial for that low of boost. The precision wastegates have to have mechanisms for higher boost and backpressures.



with ITB's you need serious headporting, serious cams and big compression. they take 10-15 hr of dyno tuning/programming time if you're working from a blank program and stock basemap from the start. I think Toda at least gives you a basemap chip for their ITB. But it's not : oh just remove my stock IM and get an ITB and slap it on my stock cam, stock head 9.2 CR B18B, Blurred. That'd be pretty naive.

Your current header/exhaust is to small for ITB's.

Your stock auto tranny can't handle a 200 whp motor NA or FI.

lose it if you're serious about this project. Either go with a Level 10 upgrade auto or sell the car and get one with a manual tranny and upgrade tp a clutch designed to handle the tq load.