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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have what started life as a Go-Autoworks turbo kit with the GT28 journal bearing turbo. All intake and exhaust tubing and clamps are complete. An adapter has been welded to the downpipe to connect to the stock catalytic converter or test pipe (also included). The downpipe also has a port to facilitate connection to the output of the external wastegate. Wastegate comes with 8- and 6-pound springs.

I have 2-1/2 turbos. The GT28 that originally came with the kit is currently disassembled. I have 2 chinachargers with various namebrand turbine and compressor wheels (I think the compressor wheels are Garrett and the turbines are Mamba). One of the chinachargers is watercooled and currently has the Garrent exhaust .64 AR exhaust housing mounted to it. That is not the one that has been used for the last few thousand miles. The other charger and the one that has been in use is an oil-cooled T28 with a .48 AR exhaust housing. I also have one additional turbine wheel.

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I have two versions of BOV. The one that blows to the atmosphere is a true TIAL. The recirculating one currently installed on the intake tubing is no-name but with the TIAL diaphragm. I didn't care for the blow off noise, but frankly, the recirculating setup wasn't much quieter. The components between the two are completely interchangeable so you change them back and forth however you want. The spring pressure is 2 psi, which is apparently typical for the B18 motors.

The intercooler has the brackets I made for mounting to the front bumper bar of a 2001 Integra. The function would hopefully be self-explanatory to anyone undertaking this conversion.

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I have a replacement dash insert that allows for two 2" gauges. Currently installed are a manifold pressure and air/fuel ratio gauges.

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There is a remote oil filter kit that I setup to be mounted to the foot for the power steering reservoir. It assumes you have removed your power steering. As my car had also started life as an automatic, I had split off from the discharge of the remote kit and passed the oil through now unused transmission cooler section of the radiator before feeding the turbo. You obviously don't have to use any of that, but it does have the advantage that the oil feeding the turbo would have passed through the filter first. As provided by Go-Auto, the turbo kit taps the oil for the turbo at the pressure switch, which is before the oil filter in the oil system. It's up to you.

I also have a very old LC-1 wideband controller and sensor. It still works, but as I recall, it started every once in a while indicating full lean for a few seconds. It's not a big deal if you're just logging, but if you are leveraging the feedback for active control, it'll cause you problems. It may just need a new sensor or a firmware update, but I never dug into it.

On the management side, I have both an AEM piggyback computer and a microsquirt ECU. I ran the car at different times with both of them. With the AEM, I was seeing if I could maintain the OBD2 function without a check engine light. I was, but it required installation piggyback fuel injectors rather than manipulating the pulsewidth to the stock ones. I have the hardware, but you'll have the weld the assembly back to the intake tubing if you want to use it. There was also a transient problem in that when the throttle is stomped, the stock ECU does not immediately go into open loop control. This basically resulted in a lean stumble any time jumping from part throttle to full, and forcing the computer to always run open loop would have defeated the purpose of what I was doing. For the most part, I ran the car on the microsquirt computer. You have to invert some signals to use everything (like AC). I don't recommend going that route unless you just like fiddling with stuff. As I understand, most people who turbo these cars get an OBD conversion harness and reprogram an OBD1 ECU.

Finally, I have various miscellaneous items like four 381cc OsideTiger fuel injectors, a heat shield to go between the exhaust manifold and intake tubing (and probably where you'll relocate the radiator overflow), low profile cooling fan, oil catch can (which I pretty much didn't use), bracket to hold the AC lines away from the charge pipe, and various fittings for the installation.

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The price is for everything, but I am willing to part some stuff out. I would prefer that major components of the original kit stay together though.

And though not the purpose of this thread, I may also be selling the car within the next year or so. It's an '01 LS Integra that started life as an auto but now has a 5 speed that I think used to be attached to an early 90s B17 motor. It's geared pretty short. It's still running the auto ECU, but I've connected a few resistors, appropriate jumpers, and one component from the original transmission so the computer doesn't know the difference and thus doesn't throw a check engine light. And I still have the original auto trans and everything to convert it back.

Have a nice day :)
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