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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Casey has insipred me to post up my build thread. Well he's inspired many things, living next door and watching his teg come together.

Not the greatest pictures but I'll try and get better ones up.

The Block:
B18a1 Block
RS Machine ITR Pistons 81.5mm w/ Hastings Rings
Endyn Block Girdle
Endyn Block Posts - Not installed yet - decided to pass, mostly b/c i forgot before i installed the pistons and didn't feel like taking it back apart.
LS Rods and Crankshaft - fully machined
ACL Race Bearing Kit
ARP Main Studs
ARP Rod Bolts
Cometic Head Gasket (Replaced with OEM gasket. Cometic's leaked quite badly. Block and head are straight so i went OEM).
OEM Water Pump/Oil Pump/Timing belt kit/Lower Gasket Kit
Fidanza 7.5lb Flywheel
Exedy Stage 1 clutch kit

The Head:
Minty Fresh B18C5 Head
Skunk2 Pro Series Stage 1 cams
AEBS Intake Manifold - if i can get a friend to weld it back together when i port it (not installed. p30 currently)
AEM 5 Bolt Cam Gears
Hytech Replica Ti Coated Header
TDC Motorsports Sport Exhaust System
TDC Motorsports Short Ram Intake w/ K&N dry flow filter

Misc:(A lot of this was on the car before it went down for the build)
Braille Auto Lightweight Battery - to be relocated - failed inside of a month. wally world battery replaced it.
TDC Motorsports Fender Bracing - work in progress
Progress 24mm Rear Sway Bar - INSTALLED
Koni Yellow Shocks - INSTALLED
Skunk2 Coilover Sleeves - INSTALLED
(Koni/skunk setup sold. Eibach Pro Street S pending installation)
Titan Front Strut Bar (Replaced with Neuspeed 4 point bar)
Explicit Speed Performance Traction Bars - INSTALLED
Filled OEM Motor Mounts - Done
TDC Motorsports Front Torque Mount - INSTALLED
Homemade Grounding Kit - redoing this
HID Conversion to Ebay 1 piece Headlights 5000k D2S - pending
ITR Rear Seats - pending
EP3 Front Seats - INSTALLED
ITR SRS Steering Wheel - INSTALLED
ITR Shift Boot -INSTALLED
ITR Shift Knob - Spoon INSTALLED
Autometer Gauges - pending
TunerView - pending
Tuned on ECTune - stage 1 complete
Slim Fans - pending
OZ Ultraleggra Wheels 16" with Nitto Neo Gen Tires

They did a piss poor job of cleaning it, but i'll take some etching mag wheel cleaner and a wire brush to it later on. She'll be all pretty.





i didn't have time to remove all the old stuff so i'll have to take them off, and do some more cleaning


Endyn Block Guard - you can see how well they cleaned the gasket face. Yay thanks jerks.


Freshly bored. Makes me warm inside. Pics don't do it justice, up close you can clearly see crosshatching and see how smooth it is.




Polished areas of crank - again pics don't do it justice. Smooth as butter. Can't snag the edge of a piece of paper anywhere on any of the journals.


Weights (in grams)


More Goodies

NOW the good stuff . . .

Skunk2 Pro Series Stage 1 Camshafts - oo yummy
Intake

Exhaust


mmmmmmmm all motor springs


MISC OEM Honda Goodness . . . F*ck the rest, get the best!













HID Kit


And my guard lion. His name is Mugen. Yes you read that right, Mugen.




Other things left to be done:
I had a little accident and the front core support top has to be replaced. In progress.
I'm converting to non-abs as well.
I am also upgrading to single pot legend brakes.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
UPDATE*

Cleaned and scrubbed the block. Began assembly Sunday. For anyone who's interested . . . i'll post up how to put them together.

Step 1: Clean the Cyl Walls of all honing grit and grime. This takes patience. Automatic Transmission Fluid works well, and has great cleaning properties. WD40 works too. I hit them with brakekleen first, then went to work scrubbing.






Be sure if you're using ATF, SOAK the towel. Be liberal with it. I basically soaked a towel, scrubbed cyl1, then got a new towel and did it again, repeating until the rag comes out clean. First time you do it, you'll be able to see how dirty and black it comes out, despite looking clean.






once you're done, some more brakekleen and a BOUNTY paper towel will remove all the lint and such from the towel.


Here the bearings are installed as well as the main studs. Before installing the bearings i took another paper towel soaked in brakekleen and LIGHTLY wiped the surfaces down.






Crankshaft was cleaned off all assembly lube and oils, as well as the surfaces soaked in brakekleen and let dry. Here it is sitting in the cradle.


Here you can see the journals clearly, as well as the dimpling done when it was balanced.


Setting the plastigauge
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Installed the main caps, main girdle, and hand tighten the main hardware.


Torquing to spec, inside out, 40 ftlbs then to spec.


We stopped for the day here, due to an unforseen issue when we removed the main caps to measure the clearance, i'll explain later.
 

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M_Shaffie on Mar/11/09 said:
I can imagine you were quite upset haha. Well I guess I'll shop for something. Or maybe i can talk a machinist friend into making a weighted Spoon knockoff? Hmmmm.
That's what I did. I looked up the thread size and then made a dimensioned drawing of one on a drafting program I use for Engineering and then gave it to one of my dad's friends to make on a lathe. It's made of stainless and the guy did it for free.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
n_tegs_we_trust on Mar/17/09 said:
Quote: M_Shaffie on Mar/11/09I can imagine you were quite upset haha. Well I guess I'll shop for something. Or maybe i can talk a machinist friend into making a weighted Spoon knockoff? Hmmmm.

That's what I did. I looked up the thread size and then made a dimensioned drawing of one on a drafting program I use for Engineering and then gave it to one of my dad's friends to make on a lathe. It's made of stainless and the guy did it for free.
got that handy by chance?
 

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Well, I can send you the drawing, but you would need to have Autodesk Inventor on your computer to open the file. Here are a couple of low res. pics of the knob though:


I decided to make the knob similar to the ITR knob, but a little bit bigger.
 

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Thanks man. I just took some measurements from the stock knob and thought about measurements that would make it ideal to fit my hand. Then I just kinda rounded a bit to make the numbers cleaner and easier to machine.

Haha actually, now that I think about it, I might go put it back on next time I drive! I took it off for the winter because stainless feels like an icecube on your hand during the winter lol.
 

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DUDE hell yea! It must be great living next to casey too. he's a good guy. Anway, I've been debating between my b18b bottom end, or just to get a b18c bottom end. I know the gsr has the main girdle, but also comes with oil squirters under the piston, so im debating which i should go with. Either way, great build you have here man, good luck and hope there are no problems
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Crankshaft turned out to have rod journals too small. Acquired a new crank and started over. BUT I've made lots of progress since then.

Here's a little mini writeup. (Just for the record, I do do my own work, but I'm paranoid about my DSLR camera so i stop to take pics of my buddy Nick doing work only b/c I don't want it to break and then my be pissed at him or anyone else)

HUGE Props to him for teaching me libraries about my engine.

Bout time I updated things here.

First off, a little tidbit/teg tip for you all. OEM bearings come with chamfered holes designed for lubrication. ACL Race bearings are not. But that shouldn’t stop you from buying them. Here is a little trick you can try. We picked this one up from the boys at King Motorsports, the Mugen gurus on this side of the Pacific.

ACL Bearing. You only need to drill the top bearing halves. There are 4. I did half, Nick did half (while I shot pics).


We start with an old LS rod. As long as the bearing areas are clean and round this will work just fine. Step one is to cut the piston pin area off, or press the pin out and remove the piston (if one is on there already). Here is my head tech, and one of my best friends, Nick demonstrating the procedure.

Here we begin with drilling through the stock oiling hole. Use a bit that is BARELY larger.


Make sure when you’re drilling, don’t push too hard, and don’t jostle the drill too much. Go slowly and let the bit do the work. USE A NEW BIT, It’ll make things a lot easier.


Here you can see where the bit will exit the rod.


Chase the hole the opposite direction.


Done. Notice that it looks like it’s freshly drilled. The hole is SLIGHTLY larger than normal, and you’ll see why.




Clean Clean Clean! Keep things clean when you drill metal parts that may see the inside of an engine. CLEAN THEM!



Now what you’ll do is set the bearing inside the “Bearing Driller Tool” you just made. Set it in a vice like so and drill from the outside to the inside. The vice keeps the bearing flat and secure while you drill. GO SLOWLY. I get these cheap as hell so I can afford to ruin them. I’d hate to see you all destroy a $70 set of bearings.


Done. Drilled. And Awful looking. We don't want that in our engines now do we?


Now what you need is a chamfering tool. If you’re familiar with woodworking, it looks almost exactly like a countersink. Now BY HAND gently insert the tip and twist applying gentle pressure. The effect you’re aiming for is a clean smooth transition from the bearing surface to the oil hole.


There you go. Do this front and back.



Repeat this 4 times and you're all finished. Now you can have proper oiling with your aftermarket tri - metal bearings, increasing their life and possibly increasing your performance potential. A cool lubed motor is a happy motor!:leghump:
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 · (Edited)
Here's our progress from this weekend.

Just a note I'd like to make . . . the 'model' here is my buddy Nick. He's not doing all the work. He demonstrated while I shoot the pictures. Some things I'm not personally familiar with, so he'd show me, and I'd finish em off. He's kinda teaching me how to do some things and making me do them as well. In the interest of the delays we've encountered he'll be seen doing lot more work b/c frankly . . . he's faster haha.

Checking Piston Ring Gaps


This is the right feeler gauge to use. should slide right in between the ring end gap.


Remember Which ones go where.


Drilled Bearing. See how it lines up with the oil hole?


Here Nick is showing me a neat trick. These are actually called rod bolt protectors and are made to keep the bolts from scratching the journals. Interestingly enough they are very similar to the handle covers on most pliers and wire strippers. Hmmm.


Nick did the pistons. I don't trust my paranoia enough. Here is the oil ring.


How to clock them correctly. Notice the website link on the top right?


Closeup of clocking/gaps


Clocking the secondary and primary compression rings


Oiling them prior to install


Piston Ring Compressor attached. First tap the edges of the compressor to make sure it's flush with the block. Tap lightly.


Install piston and rod. GENTLY now fellas. Make sure your rings don't pop out or snag on anything.


Rod now in contact with the crankshaft.


Rod Cap and bearing. Notice the alignment tab is offset. Also if you are unsure of which cap goes with which rod . . . when you put em together look at the side . . there's a number cut into the rod itself, half is on the cap the other half on the rod, put em together and you get a full number. 1,2,3,4 neato!


Plastigauge and set your torque specs



It was here we discovered the crankshaft was useless. After we got everything set right we got to this point.


Somebody's [email protected]!!!!!
Finally go things where they needed to be. Spent a long night but I finally got things clearanced right. Next morning we completed the block.









Valve to Valve Clearaces. Here is where adjustable cam gears come into play. You use these clearance markers to set the cams to where the manufacturer designed them to work. Subtract your measurments and you now know how much overlap you have to play with. WINNAR~!


Dowels installed. Top right is the pipe plug installed.


Ready to have it's camshafts degreed and piston to valve clearances checked!


This part is all Nick. I've never run a cam other than oem or larger than a ctr so I have absolutely 0 clue how this works. BUt i'll explain it as I learn it later this week.


:lol:
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·






Non-ABS Conversion


The key to the power lies within.




The crappy certifit hood i put on tonite. Found out the hinges are bent so it's not sitting right.



Misc

Yes EP3 seats do fit in a DA cabin . . . but not easily or cheaply.


hmmm.


The tuning setup.



Before you all ask. Yes I had an accident the first day within the first hour of being done with the car. Hood flew up during tuning and smashed the windshield and sunroof.

Good news is insurance is paying for everything.

I will keep you all posted.
 
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