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My clutch was engaging higher and higher to about a half an inch from the end of the slack (slack is the distance from disengaged-clutch pedal not stepped on--to the point of engagement). So I just press the clutch pedal about 1.5 to 2 inches down and the clutch engages. Is there anyway I could tell if I need to change any of my clutch's parts without removing the tranny?

The OEM clutch kit cost roughly 480 bucks and I am planning on doing it myself.

By the way, I was looking for info on refilling the A/C fluid because my A/C was pushing out room temperature air. I didn't find much information. So I bought a Haynes manual for the teg and I decided to do it myself! It turned out great! As for the skill needed to refill the A/C, it's wayyyyyyy easier than changing oil...It's more like changing a fuse! I got cold A/C again for those trips to Sacramento and Stockton, California!
 

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To check the physical condition of the clutch you pretty much have to remove the transmission and look at it that way. You should inspect the master and slave cylinders for the clutch first as it sounds like that might be what is going bad. The master is on the engine side of the firewall connected to the clutch pedal. The slave is attached to the outside of the transmission on the front of the car.

When either of those go bad the hydraulic fluid won't compress fully and it will give you a strange feeling pedal, or an engagement point that doesn't stay in the same place. Check for signs of leakage in the ****pit-side right where the rod on the clutch pedal goes into the master cylinder. Also check the other side of the master in the engine compartment, and the slave on the transmission for any signs of leakage. If you see fluid in any of those places you will need to replace both the master/slave cylinders.

It is also possible that the clutch simply needs to be adjusted, which can be accomplished by loosening the jam nut on the clutch pedal rod I spoke of earlier, twisting it clockwise for a lower pedal engagement and vice-versa for higher, and tightening the nut again. Post back if you need any clarification on what I said.
 

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I'll try to take a picture tomorrow which would make it a lot easier to understand..

If you look at your clutch pedal, there is a rod connected to the upper end of it which is connected to the clutch master cylinder on the other end (where it passes through the rubber boot mounted on the firewall). on that rod there is a nut at the pedal side that is tightened down to keep it from turning by itself. All you need to do is loosen that nut until you can turn the rod freely, and that is how you adjust the engagement point. once you have it set where you like, just tighten the nut back down and you're finished.
 
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