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Well its winter time and i need something to do to my car. So i have decided to do a complete wire tuck. Im going to remove everything out of the engine bay minus the brake system. This means fuse box, coolant overflow, battery, fuel filter and line, whats remaining of the evap system and the clutch fluid resivior. Everything will still be very accessible. All of the holes will be filled in the engine bay and it will be re painted.

I have a decent amount of it done. Im working on it about 10 hours a day. I will post my prgress daily.


This was my engine bay last year. cluttered and un organized.






This is how the car sat for 2 months. Blown up inside my car port. So i gotta pull the motor.






Pulled the blown motor. Notice the sweat card board cover i made to prevent squirls and things from living inside it.







Now that the engine is removed, it will make this prossess a lot easier. Everything will be tucked from the engine bay. minus the brake system.






Here are the wires that will be tucked. The fuse box is going to be pulled through the fire wall and mounted inside the vehicle. The fuel filter will be removed. The fuel line will be redisigned to feed on the other side of the fuel rail.





There is the clutch line and slave cyclinder. I am going to mod the clutch line to route differntly across the tranny so its out of sight. Im also going to get rid of the ruber line and replace it with steal braided line.





Driver side. All wires will be tucked. The clutch resivior will be moved out of the engine bay as well.





So basicly to do a wire tuck and bring stuff inside the car, then out through the fender without having any wires in the bay, you have to take your dash all apart. You will have to remove you center consol, your cd player, gauge cluster, stearing wheel and all of your vents. There is a bunch of 10, 12 and a couple 14mm bolts holding it in. Also some wire harness clips. It takes about an hour to remove.






Removed the airbag which weighs about 8lbs. It is held in by 4 bolts and a harness. There is also 2 big steal bars that will have to be removed on the driver and passenger side that weighs around 8lbs each. If you plan on having passengers or having your car as a daily driver put them back in after the wire tuck. Ill be leaving the passenger side air bag and steal bar out and keeping the driver side bar in, due to this car going more and more as a weekend driver and strip car.







I already removed my ac box which is a big black box that is inbetween the heater box (to the left) and blower box (to the right). A couple bolts hold the A/C box in. After taking the bolts out you will have to give the A/c a little tug, its sealed in a little bit.






Remove the blower box wich is held in by a couple of bolts and a harness.






The spot to the right, where you see the wiring going into the side of the body is where im going to be routing the wiring through. It leads to the fender which has a rubber weather gromet. The harness is to feed all of your doar accessories.






Back to the engine bay. The big hole right of the fuse box is where the air conditioning lines used to run into. You can buy a gromet from honda that will block the hole off if you do not want A/C or you can weld a plate and block it off which ill be doing.






Remove the fuse box. 3 10mm bolts. Ill be mounting it inside the cab.

ATTENTIoN: Ive read a couple wire tuck threads where they cut the harness going to the fuse box. You do not need to cut them. If you take the bottem of the fuse box off there are 3 harnesses that you can unplug.







I will be running my head light, head light ground ( little white box ), rad fan and signal light wiring through the fender. There is also a harness for A/C , horn and evap system which was delted. The fender will have to be removed. To remove the fenders you will have to remove your side skirts as well.







This is the outside of the body where you seen the wiring going to on the inside of the cab. It is used to power all of the doar accessories. I will be using this hole to route the wiring up into the fender.






Now the fun begins. Tracing all the wiring, seperate the accessory wires and the engine harness, Then pull it back through the fire wall. Leave your engine harness in the engine bay for now to make less confusion when routing wires.







The wire harness going to the right is for the motor. So i will not pull that through or touch it for the time being. The harness going to the left if for all the accessories (head lights, marker lights, head light ground box, fan, fuse box, evap system, horn and A/C)






Pull back the carpet and you can see where the wires come Through the fire wall and into the cab.






To make it easy tape the engine harness wires together at the fire wall so you know which is which wile your on the inside. These are all the accessory wires.





This is what is left inside the bay as of now. Just the engine harness that will be moved when the time comes.








Now pull the rubber gromet off and feed all the accessory wires through the hole and in the fender. I left the fuse box wiring on the inside the cab because it will be mounted inside. You can make up your mind on where you want the fuse box to be mounted. You should reloom all the grose old looming wile your doing this and delete all the accessory wiring you will not be using.








The wiring will be mounted to the side of the body. There are a couple holes where you can use push clips or you can just use self tapping screws, up to you. Before you start mocking things up make sure you have enough of the wire harness left in the cab for mounting and fitment.







Wire harness was reloamed. Here are the head light and rad fan wires that have to be extended about 5 inches to fit depending on how you plan on routing them. Please sodder them properly and use heat shrink, dont just twist and tape them because it will not last.







Here is the wire harnes reloamed and mocket up until i properly mount it. Make sure you mount that little white box to the body or else your head lights will not work.







Here is the passenger side pretty much completed. I used self taping screws and drilled them into the body







This is where the harness enters the cab. I cut a slit in the side of the existing gromet and push the harness inside of it. It would be a good idea to put some ****ing where you slit it to prevent any water from entering the cab.





Another shot of the wire harnes going down into the bumper. I used some zip ties to keep the wires together and make them more tidy







Here is the bottem. Notice where i routed the wires for the headlights. The wires going to the bottem right are for my rad fan and marker lights.







This my friends is what a fully functional head light, rad fan and marker lights looks like. I routed one through a little whole under the driving lights, the other one is routed directly under the high beam through a whole that was there. Everything is plugged in. The rad fan wire is not 100% done yet. I need to put the rad back in to see where i can route it the best.








Well its off to the driver side now. To the bottem right you can see where the harness goes through the fire wall and into the cab. I detached my clutch resivior to make it a bit easier, it as well will be relocated aswell.






This is what it looks like inside on the driver side. A LOT HARDER!!! to get to the wiring. That is the big steal bar i was talking about earlier. Its held on by a couple bolts and a some harness clips. I had to remove my gauges to pull the dash





If you look to the top left of the picture you will see a really thick group of wires with pink tape around it. You have to pull it from its harness. behind that is another harness which you have to remove.








MORE TO COME! Im alot farther then this but its 330am so i will continue posting tomorow!
 

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Very informative. I attempted a wire tuck around this time last year but simply didn't have the time to do it correctly so i just put everything back and said eff it. When i get a second vehicle though and i pull my motor for boost sometime in the next 1.5-2 years or so i think i will tackle it the right way. Good write up!
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Here is more as i promised. Ill keep posting my progress throughout the thread, until i am finished and then ill put all of it in one post at the begining of the thread so its in order and easy to follow.




Here is what it looks like under the dash once most things are removed. You will have to remove and un clip a couple harness to make it easier to get to the wiring.







The hole you see in the middle of the page is where you will have to pull all the wires through. Its very crouded and a little anoying but its doable lol.







Go back outside to the bay and do the same thing you did on the other side. Seperate all the accessory wires from your main engine harness. Again, put tape on the engine harness so you know which wires to pull through once you are inside of the car.






Heres a cool little trick. There is no way to tuck the wires going to your brake resivior and make it look good. So simply pull them off your brake resivior.






Then attach them to each other. Your check brake resivior light will not come on when you have low fluid but it also wont stay lit now wile having it detached. If you brake light ever comes on becuase its low its because you dont look under your hood enough and check things lol. Its just a dummy light lol.







Pull the accessory wiring through the fire wall.







Now push them through the side of the body. Its the same as the passenger side. There will be a little weather gromet that will have to be pulled out, and cut to push the harness into.







Here is all the wires pushed through. on this side there will be your head lights, market lights, head light ground, horn, windshield wiper pump harness front and back. windshield wiper motor, brake resivior fluid indicator and day time running lights.







Again mock it up and make sure you have enough of the harness still inside of you car to mount up.







I deleted the horn, windshield washer pump motors front and back, windshield wiper motor, horn, day time running lights and brake resivior fluid level indicator. Everything is all re loomed and mounted up.
Again make sure you mount your head light ground or else your lights will not work.







This is how the head light wiring is routed.







Second shot.







Everything is mounted and working.







lower shot.







This is what the driver side looks like completed. Head lights are pluged in and working.



 

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Discussion Starter #9
Ok so im done wiring for now. Ill do my engine harness once i get a mill connector.

NOTE: some of the things i did were at previous dates so if your wondering why some things arnt tucked or backwords its because i did this before i tucked the wires on this side. I just want to kinda keep things in order.



There are a couple ways to clean up your clutch resivior. I moved mine. You can also just tap the rubber line into your brake resivior and use the same resivior and fluid. I just wanted mine seperate.



This is where it sits from the factory.






First obvsiouly detach it. Its held on by 2 10 mm bolts, and the rubber line.







There was already a bolt hole here from the mounts for the wipers so i just drilled it out bigger to run the clutch line through.







I made a little braket to hold the resivior in place and level.







Mounted it and ran the rubber line through the hole and connected it. Out of site out of mind lol.







Also sence you are running a rubber line through a metal hole. Make sure you use a gromet. It wouldnt take long for that line to get cut and leak.










MORE TO COME!! ive half completed a couple of things and im waiting on parts. So once ive completed certain things i will post them. I dont want to post half progress of a bunch of things all out of order. I rather have start to finish of all the projects.
 

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Very nice. So you said you have to extend some wires of the PS side tuck depending on how you route them. I take it this means you can do a complete accessory wire tuck without extending any wires?!?!?!

awesome.

Edit: what about the ABS wires could they be tucked this same way? and it would be a pain, but is it feasible to do this with the engine still in the car?
 

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Nice Project! Looks like a mess to me with all those wires! Hope you dont get lost. It would be cool if at the end of your project, you had an approximate number of hours and days it took you to complete it all! Good luck and I hope it turns out like you want it to! -Aaron
 

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Discussion Starter #13
thunder2709 on Oct/10/09 said:
Very nice. So you said you have to extend some wires of the PS side tuck depending on how you route them. I take it this means you can do a complete accessory wire tuck without extending any wires?!?!?!

awesome.

Edit: what about the ABS wires could they be tucked this same way? and it would be a pain, but is it feasible to do this with the engine still in the car?

you can route the wires for your head lights through the big whole on ur passenger side where the air box used to go. But then you will see the wires coming into the bay obviously lol. depends how for you want to go and if your going for the clean look or the straight up no wires look lol.



i never had abs in the car.. but im asuming you can. just have them come in through the big hole lol.

You can defenetly do the accessory wire tuck with the engine in the car. Most of the other things you can to. But some of the things ill be doing would be hell with the engine still in lol. It take a couple hours to pull a motor but give you so many more hours of making things easier to work on.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
theivjackal on Oct/10/09 said:
Nice Project! Looks like a mess to me with all those wires! Hope you dont get lost. It would be cool if at the end of your project, you had an approximate number of hours and days it took you to complete it all! Good luck and I hope it turns out like you want it to! -Aaron
Im mostly scared of the filling, priming and painting portion that will come lol..

I actaully know how many days and hours ive worked on it so far. im at 5 days with about 30 hours of a decent pace.
 

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ive made some progress on some other things that i will post later. Im just trying to find a wire bulkhead.

something like this





So i can route my main engine harness through my firewall. Does anyone know what there called or where to get one. Im having a really hard time finding something like this.
 
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