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Discussion Starter #1
I did it at 100k - Now its 140k

When should I change it?
I put NG Platinum sparks around 60k - how long will it go?
Lastly Fuel Filter - how often should I change?
 

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I did it at 100k - Now its 140k

When should I change it?
I put NG Platinum sparks around 60k - how long will it go?
Lastly Fuel Filter - how often should I change?
[/QUOTEFuel
I did it at 100k - Now its 140k

When should I change it?
I put NG Platinum sparks around 60k - how long will it go?
Lastly Fuel Filter - how often should I change?
Fuel filter should last you about 60k miles, while the distributor I would not change unless it needs to be replaced (ie. Misfiring, Crank but no start).
 

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the answer is ...never lol.
you need to change the cap/rotor/coil/icm/gasket/o-ring when necessary.
i'm at 380k miles and the rest is factory original.
here's some handy dandy guides:


 

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I do all maintenance items every 30k. The distributor items should just be a cap and rotor, although my distributor finally required replacing at 240000 miles
 

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I do all maintenance items every 30k. The distributor items should just be a cap and rotor, although my distributor finally required replacing at 240000 miles
I second that. Every 3yr/36k I replace all of the fluids (coolant, brake, ATF), filters (air & fuel), and distributor cap & rotor. The OEM dist parts are made by TEC. You can buy rebranded TEC made in Japan (by TEC for Bosch) equivalents under the Bosch name. Get them from Rock Auto--they're cheap. I haven't had an ignition, fuel, or transmission-related issue in the last 145,000 mi.

Distributor Cap - Bosch 03306 $9.38 @RA
Distributor Rotor - Bosch 04278 $6.40 @RA
Engine Air Filter - Denso 1433168 $11.04 @RA
Fuel Filter - AC Delco GF735 $20.79 @RA ...might be better as a dealer item if you're ordering something anyways. I wasn't impressed with the WIX filter I bought in Jan.
OEM Fuel Filter - 16010-ST5-E02 $26.27 @Acura Parts Warehouse ...if you only ever use tier-1 fuel or [even better] ethanol-free...you could probably go 6yr/72k between FF replacements.
 

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Discussion Starter #6 (Edited)
I second that. Every 3yr/36k I replace all of the fluids (coolant, brake, ATF), filters (air & fuel), and distributor cap & rotor. The OEM dist parts are made by TEC. You can buy rebranded TEC made in Japan (by TEC for Bosch) equivalents under the Bosch name. Get them from Rock Auto--they're cheap. I haven't had an ignition, fuel, or transmission-related issue in the last 145,000 mi.

Distributor Cap - Bosch 03306 $9.38 @RA
Distributor Rotor - Bosch 04278 $6.40 @RA
Engine Air Filter - Denso 1433168 $11.04 @RA
Fuel Filter - AC Delco GF735 $20.79 @RA ...might be better as a dealer item if you're ordering something anyways. I wasn't impressed with the WIX filter I bought in Jan.
OEM Fuel Filter - 16010-ST5-E02 $26.27 @Acura Parts Warehouse ...if you only ever use tier-1 fuel or [even better] ethanol-free...you could probably go 6yr/72k between FF replacements.
@97BlackPearl - It seems like you mis-interpreted @Heathen
@Heathen said s/he changed Distrib at 240k
Are you car enthusiast - because you are over-doing on maintenance?!!!

Every 3yr/36k for the fluids (coolant, brake, ATF) is fine.
Air filter, when its dirty - if you can not see the Sun or light, change it
Fuel filter is longer - like 80k miles
Dist 100k

Then again if you are using long lasting Coolant, its like 5yrs
ATF is a must. Nowadays you can check Brake fluid with a meter. Otherwise, just change it - I do it - cheap meters are unreliable.

When I was young, I was overdoing on maintenance - then I took it to shop and m/c made a lot of money out of me.
 

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Are you car enthusiast
Yes. I never miss a chance to give the old girl some love.

because you are over-doing on maintenance?!!!
I don't think so. I try not to quibble over whether or not the oil had another month in it or whether or not a maintenance item could be put off for an extra year. I do all of my own work so it only costs me parts and time--$150 and one weekend every 3 years seems pretty reasonable.

My limited experience working on cars (+/-12 years) has taught me that maintenance parts and time are WAY cheaper and faster than fixing problems parts and time. For me it's just easier to remember to do all maintenance items every three years regardless of the miles--I save it to my Google calendar and it pops up. Easy. I also seek out OEM, whitebox, premium, or if I'm totally screwed then I'll settle for generic--in that order. I'm that guy that asks the store clerk, what's the best you've got, instead of, what's the cheapest one you've got. Maybe I wouldn't care if I drove a Nissan or Hundai, but I don't.
 

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May I ask where you are located?
Other end of 'Murica...N FL

You asked about the NGK Platinum plugs at the top too? ...probably similar to the Bosch "double platinums" (runs cooler) I ran for 8-10 years. They ran fine--better gas mileage (31 mpg average) than the stock coppers. Switched to NGK Iridium's and those run well too. Gas mileage dropped to a consistent 28.5 though. Three things happened at the same time so take it for what you will: 1. Iridium plugs (run hotter), 2. some of that loss started around the time FL switched from pure gas to E10, and 3. some to removing the stock resonator and replacing it with the 3" DIY flared CAI hidden under the stock filter box. She runs much better at interstate speeds now so I guess it's a trade off.

On a stock engine, spark plugs run +/- 36k for copper, 100k+ for Pl or Ir. It also depends on compression, oil infiltration/knock/ping, temperature conditions, etc., etc. Inspecting them at 3-5 yr tune-ups is the best policy. I add a little gray antiseize to the threads and silicone dielectric grease to the tops.
  • White = too hot/too lean. Scrub w/ brake cleaner & wire brush, fix lean/heat issue, might be ok or might have to be replaced.
  • Black = too rich/ too cool/ oil leaking. Scrub w/ brake cleaner & wire brush, fix oil issue, might be ok or might have to be replaced.
  • Gray = just right. Check for the gap opening up indicating wear. Gap for Cu can be corrected up to a limit...Pl and Ir should be replaced.
Bonus unsolicited spark plug info...
105884

and FYI: 13 ft-lb = 156 in-lb...pay attention to which torque wrench you're using & ALWAYS start by hand.
 

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I did it at 100k - Now its 140k

When should I change it?
I put NG Platinum sparks around 60k - how long will it go?
Lastly Fuel Filter - how often should I change?
My original distributor lasted around 612,000 miles The ignition coil went out. Then the igniter went out at 680,000. I use NGK iridium plugs and change them every timing belt change at 90,000. I once forgot to change them at a timing belt change and they lasted 180,000. They were in bad shape but still working. I change fuel filter and thermostat at every timing belt change too. I bought my ‘96 Integra LS new And drive it everyday still. 778,000 miles.
 
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