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Hello, so two weekends ago I did a valve adjustment and new valve cover and spark plug gaskets. The car runs much better now (128,000 miles), but it still has a weird rattle on cold startup. Looking at another thread, this seems to be possibly timing belt tension. Unfortunately the time to do that is when the valve cover is off, and I've already resealed it. It also appears you can't get the upper timing cover off while the valve cover is on without destroying it.

So, could someone with an open B18B1 and a 19mm handy let me know how many degrees I have to rotate the crank pulley from TDC to move the cam gears by three teeth? This way I can do the adjustment without removing the covers. Much appreciated!
 

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Unfortunately the time to do that is when the valve cover is off, and I've already resealed it.
This statement concerns me, as it sounds like you used some sort of sealant for the valve cover?

These have a rubber gasket, and the valve cover should be able to be removed many times over again with it not needing replaced. In fact, I've had to replace that rubber gasket once during my ownership (14yrs).

Remove the valve cover, and verify your timing
 

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There were several things that concerned me about that statement. I wouldn't even assume that 2 engines were exactly the same after roughly 18+ years...

JJKZ24 pretty much covered what needs to be done.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
This statement concerns me, as it sounds like you used some sort of sealant for the valve cover?

These have a rubber gasket, and the valve cover should be able to be removed many times over again with it not needing replaced. In fact, I've had to replace that rubber gasket once during my ownership (14yrs).

Remove the valve cover, and verify your timing
You have to use hondabond (or equivalent, such as The Right Stuff) on the 90-degree angles by the cam ends. Is that not common knowledge on here? I had to do that on my Mazda as well. Heck I'd be surprised if it wasn't standard practice on any valve cover.

It's removing the valve cover, cleaning the sealant off of the gasket and the head and the valve cover that was gonna be a pain in the ass. That's why I was looking for a quicker, easier way. If I absolutely have to waste time cleaning and resealing it, so be it.

Thanks for the replies, even if they weren't what I was looking for.
 

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You have to use hondabond (or equivalent, such as The Right Stuff) on the 90-degree angles by the cam ends. Is that not common knowledge on here? I had to do that on my Mazda as well. Heck I'd be surprised if it wasn't standard practice on any valve cover.

It's removing the valve cover, cleaning the sealant off of the gasket and the head and the valve cover that was gonna be a pain in the ass. That's why I was looking for a quicker, easier way. If I absolutely have to waste time cleaning and resealing it, so be it.

Thanks for the replies, even if they weren't what I was looking for.
Based on mine and other experiences, I've never done it. Most don't. Never has been an issue. While you can certainly error on the side of doing it, it's a step that has never came across as warranted.
 

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hondabond was superseded by better gasket materials based on the honda tech here in MN i asked. Volkswagen has identical head gaskets for most of their 8v and 16v engines and never had to use anything other than the silicone gasket.
 

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Discussion Starter #7 (Edited)
It's listed as necessary in the FSM and Helms, and Fel-Pro themselves even recommend it for this particular application: Sealant on rubber valve cover gaskets?

Fel-Pro said:
If there are any joints or sharp angles, a dab of RTV should be applied to the sealing surface in those areas only. Examples of areas that need a dab of RTV include, but are long limited to joints or angles formed by cam caps and/or timing covers and joints formed by half-moon seals.
As much as it would be fantastic to just put a bare gasket on and call it a day, I believe I will indeed continue to err on the side of caution and use sealant in the 90-degree angles.


EDIT: Couldn't figure out how to get the 14mm tensioner bolt loose without rounding it off, and because of that wouldn't have been able to torque it back down properly anyway, so had to give up. Seems to be something that requires a lot more work to do due to the tight area. For reference though, turning the crank about 85 degrees gets you the three teeth.
 
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