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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
..ok here is my thing...
(KEEP IN MIND I DoNT HAVE ALOT TO SPEND, and I HAVE A STOCK MOTOR, WHICH I PLAN TO RUN oNLY 10 PSI)
I plan to turbo my integra, and i already have a FMU and other misc. parts around.
i have been going around other sites trying to achieve more informations about different ways of managing the fuel system when turboing a honda.

here is what i have, or plan to get:
-APEX VAFC
-450cc injectors (DSM)
-Adjustable regulator
-Inline fuel pump
-Vortech FMU 12:1




basic info i collected:
FMU's, mostly i hear bad things about them, but mostly stuff that have to do with it rasing the fuel pressure too high, and dumping too much fuel.

AFC, i hear they are OK to use, but they advance the timing.

I would like to know what route i should take, and maybe hear about other members setup, or experiences with these management.

thanks alot
 

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with the 450cc injectors and a fuel pump you shouldn't need any more fuel as long as you tune it right. i suggest a walbro in tank high flow fuel pump, your 450 injectors and some sort of fuel management like a apex vafc.
 

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10 psi is kinda high for FMU. That's my opinion.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
hmm, so the fuel pump, VAFC, and 450 injectors should do the trick.

well what is the MAX boost i can run on this setup?
 

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I don't have real turbo experiance, but I've read a lot.
this is from an article on our site by boostcontrol:
"How much boost can my car run safely?
LS,RS,GS- Stock Internals 5-7PSI.
GSR-Stock Internals 6-8PSI.
once again...Stand Alone FMS and these numbers go WAY UP !

Remember boost is not horsepower. Boost is just a measurement of how hard the turbo is working to force air into the engine. When an engine cannot flow any more air into it, the boost must be increased to force it in. Maximum boost is determined by the tuning as well as by the engine's internal components. It is the responsibility of the car owner and tuner to take steps that will ensure that the increased boost will not harm the engine. TUNE TUNE TUNE !!!"
link
The reason with 10 psi a FMU would be bad is you can't tune as precisely and with the different options of a standalone.
 

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if you run 450 injectors you wont need a 12:1 riser. you may want to switch that to a 1 to 1 riser for those bigger injectors on such low boost.
 

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I agree that the FMU isn't the most optimal device to use for your car when you're boosting, especially high PSI, but it is VERY effective, nonetheless, and honestly you could do a lot worse than the FMU. I think that FMUs get a horrible rap mainly due to user error, such that they never had their injectors cleaned or even have injector cleaner in it (a $2 bottle) or have had serious damage because they did not properly maintain their vehicle.

From my experience, I've had customers and collegues run on an FMU for YEARS trouble free. They just didn't get nutz and get an electronic boost controller and tested the boost waters to where they'd drown. INLINE PRO and their kit uses FMU on their race applications that are over 500hp!!! That doesn't mean WE should do it to ours also, but my point is, that an FMU, with a properly maintained engine can work wonders.
 

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chingro on Mar/02/04 said:
AFC, i hear they are OK to use, but they advance the timing.
Air Fuel Controllers modify the map signal to the ECU to trick it into changing the amount of fuel delivered by the injectors. I guess you could call this injector timing. Just to avoid confusion, it does not however advance ignition timing nor does it advance cam timing. Those are two completely separate things from the fuel delivery system.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
ok...guys
no matter what route i take a fuel pump will be installed.


If i decide to use the FMU, should i keep my stock injectors? or should i get 310cc injectors?
 

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it doesnt just control Vtec crossover, IMO, its most important function is to control the fuel map, you can lean out or richen your powerband by 100 rpm increments, and have different maps for WOT and partial throttle. Vafc is only useful if you take it to a dyno, butt dynos just dont really cut it... and taking other people's settings doesnt work too well either (and can be potentially dangerous to your motor, not all motors are the same).

hope this helped...
 

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hey..im new here, but from what i have learned about turbos, (my friend has a gsx eclipse, with a t3/t4 greddy), the compression ratio varies directly with the amount of psi you can push, thus with the integra ratio, 10:1, you can only push about 6.5 lbs of boost with stock internals. now if you get low compression pistons, you can go up to much higher numbers, which you would have to look up with the internals you decide. and if you go with new internals, make sure you replace the valve springs first.
 
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