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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi guys,

I have just installed my Zex dry kit on my DOHC VTEC H22A Automatic, with a 65 shot combination of jet/nozzle.

I have also dynoed my car without NOS at 131.5HP ATW as my stock HP on the crank/engine is 180HP. With NOS I dynoed at 163HP ATW, whereby I only gained abt 31.5HP's out of the 65 NOS shot.

My AF ratio is around 12+/13 for all motor and spikes to abt 14+ when I NOS, is this normal or am I running too lean. I'm planning to add a adjustable FPR this week-end, what setting should I run? wif e vacuum hose in and out.

I did not retard my ignition timing as there was no evidence of knocking/detonation and being an auto my stock ECU would retard it if knocking is sensed. Nozzle is installed facing the throttle body and abt 6 inches away.

The only thing that i have not done is to change to colder plugs and to gap it to 0.035. Is this 0.035mm = 1.1 inch ??? I'm gonna get a set of NGK BKR7E but i need to know what to gap it to. Wld this increase my HP tremendously or marginally only?

What have i done wrongly and what should i expect on the dyno with a 65hp shot. I'm expecting to increase at least 50HP ATW from the nitrous.

Pls provide your input as I'm really losing sleep over this matter.

Also would you recommend that I WOT during the automatic gear shifting or should I lift off the throttle when the gear is changing.

Thanks and really look forward to your replies and recommendations.
 

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My first question is what was your bottle pressure? If the n2o in the bottle isn't warm your not going to get the flow your supposed to. I saw a huge difference when I installed the bottle heater. As for your fuel pressure it ok. It would have to be running pretty rich to effect the HP that much.
 

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intdc2 on Mar/22/04 said:
Is this 0.035mm = 1.1 inch ???
That's off a lot haha, probably screwed up on the decimals.
I'm subscribing, I'm interested in this problem
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
FatyGrenEyez on Mar/22/04 said:
My first question is what was your bottle pressure? If the n2o in the bottle isn't warm your not going to get the flow your supposed to. I saw a huge difference when I installed the bottle heater. As for your fuel pressure it ok. It would have to be running pretty rich to effect the HP that much.
bottle pressure is 1000 psi so no issue's on that. I'm not running rich, actually i think i'm running pretty lean. I remember reading that fuel makes power, N20 alone does not. That's y i was wandering if i bop up the fuel pressure, will i be gaining some horsies.

my torque graph is pretty alright, peaks at 3500 n hits another high note wen the VTEC kicks in. Graphs r very linear and looks pretty darn good but i'm not realizing the full potential of the 65 shots...darn..sob sob
 

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hmm when i ran my 55 shot of nitrous, my fuel pressure was bumped slightly via fpr, no spark plug upgrades, and timing was set at 16 btdc. I never had it dyno tuned so i don't know my numbers. only thing i can say is to make sure the jets are correct. You might have switched the fuel and nitrous jets around or something. A 65 shot running 31.5 hp is not right at all.

maybe do a compression check and leak down test on motor to make sure the motor is in good condition.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
95integraLS on Mar/23/04 said:
hmm when i ran my 55 shot of nitrous, my fuel pressure was bumped slightly via fpr, no spark plug upgrades, and timing was set at 16 btdc. I never had it dyno tuned so i don't know my numbers. only thing i can say is to make sure the jets are correct. You might have switched the fuel and nitrous jets around or something. A 65 shot running 31.5 hp is not right at all.

maybe do a compression check and leak down test on motor to make sure the motor is in good condition.
can you remember by how much did u bumped up the FPR ? 3.2 psi maybe or more ? thanks for the feedback, will check on the jets. Compression shld be fine as my all motor dyno figures actually checks out fine. If I had compression lost my figure wld be much lower, NA wise my car is healthy.

jus wandering during 1/4 miles do u lift your throttle wen the gears r changing, was wandering wats the best technique to launch an auto wif N20. ur 1/4 mile timing seems impressive.
 

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14.7/1 is optimal a/f ratio. So you're alright here too.

Where is your n2o pressure gauge? If its on the bottle maybe you could try and get a reading somewhere closer to the nozzle, maybe the line is clogged.

[plugs]
When you raise compression or add forced induction, you must lower the gap (reduce gap about .004" for every 50 hp you add.) However, when you add a high power ignition system (such as those offered by MSD, Crane, Nology,) you can open the gap back up about .002"-.005".
stock plug gap specs
GS-R = 0.05 inch(1.3mm)
ITR,LS,SE,GS = 0.04 inch(1.1mm)
 

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i bumped my fuel pressure about 4 psi higher (vacuum line off). my launch method was to launch with nitrous armed. and i leave it at WOT the whole way down the track, this way the nitrous is constantly spraying and i don't lose the shot through shifts.
 

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Those gaps won't help him, as he is running an h22. I wouldn't think that fuel pressure is the problem here. It seems to me that you are not getting the complete 65 shot, double check the pressure in the lines, and try to check it at the nozzle.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
FatyGrenEyez on Mar/23/04 said:
14.7/1 is optimal a/f ratio. So you're alright here too.

Where is your n2o pressure gauge? If its on the bottle maybe you could try and get a reading somewhere closer to the nozzle, maybe the line is clogged.

[plugs]
When you raise compression or add forced induction, you must lower the gap (reduce gap about .004" for every 50 hp you add.) However, when you add a high power ignition system (such as those offered by MSD, Crane, Nology,) you can open the gap back up about .002"-.005".
stock plug gap specs
GS-R = 0.05 inch(1.3mm)
ITR,LS,SE,GS = 0.04 inch(1.1mm)
the gauge is on the bottle, wen u say closer to the nozzle could you be abit more specific as to where i can mount it? i haf no idea where i can mount it, n how m i able to test it out.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
95integraLS on Mar/23/04 said:
i bumped my fuel pressure about 4 psi higher (vacuum line off). my launch method was to launch with nitrous armed. and i leave it at WOT the whole way down the track, this way the nitrous is constantly spraying and i don't lose the shot through shifts.
wow... ur tranny n block is really strong man :p
i tot that its recommended not to spray when changing gears due to insufficient fuel at gear change..
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Hakamoto on Mar/23/04 said:
Those gaps won't help him, as he is running an h22. I wouldn't think that fuel pressure is the problem here. It seems to me that you are not getting the complete 65 shot, double check the pressure in the lines, and try to check it at the nozzle.
why is that? i tot its recommended to gap to 0.03 or 0.035inch for all N20 application. I have added silicon to seal any gaps at the nozzle point going in to the intake. How m i able to check the pressure in the lines at the nozzle? If i'm able to verify that then i can determine if there could be a leakage sumwhere or along the lines there's a blockage.

i'm a newbie at N20.. thanks for ur replies guys
 

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try installing your pressure gauge right before the zex box instead of on the bottle, see if you get a different reading.

That kit taps into the TPS for WOT activation right? Not really familiar with Zex but is it possible that if you had a bad connection on the TPS wire that maybe it wouldn't spray correctly. Or possibly even stutter on and off so that it isn't really giving you the full shot. Like I said not overly familiar w/ that kit so just a guess

Zex the easy to install but PITA to trouble shoot nitrous kit
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
FatyGrenEyez on Mar/23/04 said:
try installing your pressure gauge right before the zex box instead of on the bottle, see if you get a different reading.

That kit taps into the TPS for WOT activation right? Not really familiar with Zex but is it possible that if you had a bad connection on the TPS wire that maybe it wouldn't spray correctly. Or possibly even stutter on and off so that it isn't really giving you the full shot. Like I said not overly familiar w/ that kit so just a guess

Zex the easy to install but PITA to trouble shoot nitrous kit
I dont think its possible to mount the gauge there as the connectors are different i guess. N20 is injected wen i WOT n TPS senses it. I have tapped the TPS wire in to my ECU for safety reasons so my solenoid should be running fine.

Tried e-mailing zex but no replies, tried calling them in the morning, no one's picking up.. darn..

anymore suggestions, pls keep them coming...

another thing is i jus noticed that after a day or 2 of not using the system, the gauge pressure goes back to 0. is this normal or it shows that sumwhere along the lines there's a leak.
 

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intdc2 on Mar/24/04 said:
another thing is i jus noticed that after a day or 2 of not using the system, the gauge pressure goes back to 0. is this normal or it shows that sumwhere along the lines there's a leak.
Well its a good possibility that you have a leak. How long before you went to the dyno did you fill the bottle. Mine only goes to 0 when its dead empty. Its still kind of strange that you could get it to 1000psi and then it drops to 0. I'd say if the dyno is easily accessible and not too much money you should get a fresh bottle and head back there. And maybe have someone keep an eye on the pressure gauge while you make your runs. If its possible try freezing your bottle before you take it to get filled too. Sometimes they can squeeze 11 or 12lbs into a 10lb bottle when its frozen. This is especially good if they don't weigh your bottle at the shop. Kind of like getting back at them for all the times they only gave you 7 or 8 lbs and charged you for 10. So refill the bottle and get to the dyno or try hunting down the leak and see if that solves your problem and if not we'll get back to trouble shooting something else
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
FatyGrenEyez on Mar/24/04 said:
Quote: intdc2 on Mar/24/04another thing is i jus noticed that after a day or 2 of not using the system, the gauge pressure goes back to 0. is this normal or it shows that sumwhere along the lines there's a leak.
Sorry, let me be abit more specific. The gauge was showing O after 2 days of non activation. Meaning my bottle pressure valve has been closed for 2 days so shld it read 0. I have not turned it on since the day i closed the bottle pressure valve abt 2 days ago. I believe that only when u open the bottle pressure valve does the gauge reading goes up, right?
 

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i would have gone with the nos kit like the guy said with direct port WET system.
 
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