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gsr redline at 3k!!

4K views 45 replies 28 participants last post by  shorto85 
#1 ·
**UPDATE** Car does not redline, it bogs at 3.5k and does not go any higher

This is not my gsr, but my cousins gsr ( he decided to buy the gsr from my previous thread). It has been 5 days now and just today it poped a check engine light and was redlining at 3k on every gear. That is now solved though from unpluging the negative terminal and simply pluging the terminal back in(plan was to reset ecu). After simply unplugging and plugging back the terminal, car now drives fine. This sounds to me like an electical issue or ecu issue. Is there a short?

His car:
94 ls body w/ 2000 gsr swap.
obd 1 ecu
greddy turbo kit w/ blue box
 
#4 ·
SCRATCH THE REDLINE. It doesnt redline. I finally got to drove it and the car just bogs like the cars clogged or something. But this is only once the CEL comes on. And once its on, it doesnt go over 3.5k rpm(BOGS). BUT when you turn off the engine and turn the car on again, all that goes away. The car will drive normally right after you turn on the car. The cel only comes on under high rpm boost. It does not do it every time the car is pushed. It does it only 1 out of 4or5 hard runs.
The first time it did this, I popped the hood and checked some of the vacuum lines and every thing seemed fine. I did not hear any whistle nor sprayed anything on the lines(its night time). I did notice the the bottom fuel line on the fuel pressure regulator was loose and leaking fuel. But I fixed that, but the car still does what it does.
The idle now flunctuates up and down. But it goes away after ahwile if you let the engine idle.
 
#6 ·
when the check engine light comes on, and it bogs, the car is going into limp mode, ie trying to prevent itself from blowing up, go to autozone and have them check the code, it's free and will give you a much better idea of what you are dealing with!
 
#8 ·
this happens with my car also. it has to do with the ignition. there is another thread on here that someone was having the problem. i recently did my motor swap and when i try to use an obd1 ecu it bogs at 3k but if plug my obd2 back in everything is good. the way the guy on the other thread said he solved it was by replacing the ignitor but i dont know what he meant by that.
 
#20 ·
ok first of all your oil light isnt a low oil light it basically is a no oil light when that comes on you have no oil at all, from previous experience? if your car redlines at 3000rpms your ecu is protecting your motor by keeping you out of high rpms because there probably isnt enough oil to supply your vtec and your cel is probably a vtec malfunction
 
#21 ·
Because the gsr's require it to function properly, of course all motors need it but the gsr will go into limp mode if low on oil or if throwing a code such as a bad o2 sensor etc. It's just one easy thing to check just to make sure and it's part of routine care to the car. But get those codes checked as well!
 
#24 ·
kaliride on Feb/16/06 said:
ok first of all your oil light isnt a low oil light it basically is a no oil light when that comes on you have no oil at all, from previous experience? if your car redlines at 3000rpms your ecu is protecting your motor by keeping you out of high rpms because there probably isnt enough oil to supply your vtec and your cel is probably a vtec malfunction


Nope thats not true at all. When I did my LS/VTEC swap I didn't wire in my VTEC right away so I had a CEL but I could still take it up to redline without a problem.


OIL IS NOT THE ISSUE!!!
 
#25 ·
So you didn't have vtec wired in? Then it would of never engaged at all and you would of had no need for the extra oil. There's been a dyno run posted somewhere on here of with and without vtec, car ran fine but didn't put down near as much power as it would hooked up.

This is from the "All About VTEC" thread:

In order for the ECU to initiate the VTEC system, 5 engine conditions must be met.

Temperature: The engine must have reached normal operating temperature.

Throttle Position: The throttle must be open far enough to allow for increased airflow in VTEC.

Vehicle Speed: The car must be in motion (wheels spinning).

RPM: Engine must spin to it's target value. The GS-R will send it's "GO" signal for VTEC at 4400 RPM while the Type R sends it's signal at 5700 RPM.

OIL PRESSURE: The engine must be operating with normal and safe levels of oil pressure determined by the VTEC pressure switch.

The ECU will send a signal for a spool valve to open. When this valve opens, oil is allowed into the pivot shaft inside the valve rockers and directed into the center rocker. Inside the center rocker, a set of pins are forced outward by the oil pressure and lock inside the rockers to both sides. This entire process occurs in 1/10 of a second.
 
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