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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
A couple of years ago my 97 GSR started missing and throwing a CEL that said I had misfires, so I took it to my Acura dealer to check it out. They said that the valves had gotten too tight, and had been damaged, but they said probably not bent. They said I probably needed a valve job, but that as long as I kept the valves adjusted, that the missing shouldn't get any worse, and it hasn't.

A few weeks later I took it to another mechanic and he said he was '99% sure' that I needed a valve job. Compression is fine on 3 cylinders, between 205 and 225, but on I believe #3 cylinder the compression is 165.

The mechanic said he would charge about $600 for the valve job. First, what exactly IS a valve job? Will he replace the valves I have, or resurface/fix the ones I have? Would I be better off to buy a set of new valves and have him change them out? And if all that's needed to do is change the valves, could I drop in a set of Type R valves instead? Would there be any advantages to this? I ask cause I noticed some guy on ebay selling the Type R valves for about $300.

Either way I am going to have a leakdown test done first to make sure that it is the valves, but just wondering what my options are if it IS the valves where I'm losing compression.
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Or to pose this question another way, if I did need a valve job, would it be better to get the valves in it resurfaced or whatever, or just get a new set of valves and have them swapped out? The GSR has about 135,000 miles on it.
 

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It's not just the valves themselves. A good part of the job involves resurfacing.

If I were you, I would probably send my head off to a race shop for a serious "street" valve job. For around 1200 bucks you could get your head ported and polished, new stainless valves, three angle valve job, race springs, titanium retainers, and new seats.

This might be a good opportunity to throw in some nice lumpy cams, too :)

Check out Spark Racings site.
 

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With that mileage, it would be a good idea to replace valves/guides. If leakdown test proves the valves are to blame, that's the route I would take. What's the point of getting a valve job done if valve to guide clearance is at or beyond sevice limits? Might as well take care of that scenario while the head's off. Also with a valve job, your valve margin is going to be less, which could invite trouble down the road. Mind you, a reputable shop will notify you if specs are at or beyond serviceable limits. If a touch up is all that's needed, then leave it at that. If budget allows, replace what you can. I HATE doing things twice, especially when it can be avoided!
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Yeah that's about what I was thinking, sounds like getting the valves fixed would cost about the same as getting new ones, so I might just go that route. Think I've reached the point where it's probably better to replace rather than repair if I can.
 
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