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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
This is a thread for people who are having ongoing issues and a repository of information.

A list of resolved issues may be added as time goes and/or a list to other threads that may be of help for any issues you may have.

If your issue is not listed, or is not resolved in just a few post, then please make a new thread with as much info on the issue and car in question.

This is not meant to be a debate thread, if you want to debate "mod A" vs. "mod B" or what have you, please make a new thread.

Please note that information within the replies of this thread may be updated/changed as new or useful information becomes available. Also take note that foul language or swearing may be part of some post...

Helpful links:
Throttle Body and idle issues starter. @Gadget329's ongoing idle issues moved to this thread. (To the best of my knowledge, this issue has been resolved by the use of a new/used IAC. Check out Gadget's GSR Log for more info.)
"Will these spark plug wires work?"
Motor swap stuff.
Random misfire throughout rpm range - Moral of the story: Check your spark plugs, if cracked, investigate for an underlying issue.
Power loss troubleshooting
How to check for parasitic draw. - Parasitic draw is where something is using power from the battery even while the car is off. If your battery is dead every morning, check this link out.
Dyno charts with mods - This is a great thread for if you have a specific power goal in mind. Here you'll be able to see what's worked for other people in the past, and have a better idea on what you can do to meet your power goal.
No crank situations (Outside link) - A "no crank situation" is just what it sounds like, the car won't start for one reason or another. -- Credit to @tamboo for linking this in another thread.
Compression testing rundown - Short, sweet, simple. If anyone knows of a good write up, please link it to me!
What to do first? (After buying a new teg)
How to ask for help
What to do if you breakdown
Clutch replacement extras, and what to do in the event of a clutch failure.
FF Squad (FFS TechNet) - A giant listing of helpful ****, give it a look if you can't find anything on our site about what you need. If you still can't find what you need, or need a bit more info, then do make a post so we can hear you out.
Virt dyno vs. real dyno for tuning - If you're wondering if you should trust the virtual dyno print out or not. Short answer, not so much.
Transmission Rebuild info (B-series)
"I just bought a teg! What should I do to check it over?"

Issues others are having:
Vtec doesn't seem to be kicking in - May be getting moved to a new thread if not fixed here.
 

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Alright great idea! So I read what you said about freeing up the Iac. When I cleaned the Iac itself the plunger inside seemed to move freely I was able to move the plunger open and closed with my finger. I loaded the inside with Carb cleaner and covered all the holes and gave it a good shake and repeated until carbon buildup stopped coming out. I'm just going to order a new one tomorrow just to get the whole Iac idea out of the way. If it works that would be fantastic. I uploaded a video on my on my original thread but I'll repost it here.
http://youtu.be/MyAT5rNFguI
 

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Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
You may want to test the wires going into the IAC before you order a new/used one. If it's just a loose wire, it would save you quite a bit of money.

Edit: Doesn't the 95 still have a FIV? If so, try taking it off and plugging the holes and let it warm up and see if the issue is fixed. If it is, take the plate off of the end of the FIV and turn the white/gray plastic bit inside of it all the way to the bottom and back it off by a 1/4 turn, then put it back on after unplugging the holes. Wow that was a lot of "and's"...
 

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You may want to test the wires going into the IAC before you order a new/used one. If it's just a loose wire, it would save you quite a bit of money.

Edit: Doesn't the 95 still have a FIV? If so, try taking it off and plugging the holes and let it warm up and see if the issue is fixed. If it is, take the plate off of the end of the FIV and turn the white/gray plastic bit inside of it all the way to the bottom and back it off by a 1/4 turn, then put it back on after unplugging the holes. Wow that was a lot of "and's"...
I thought we went over this before? Hmm maybe it was" myb18b" but yes 95s do have Fit valves, but I do not have one because aftermarket throttle body. Fit valve is for cold startup, the only way that would have been a problem was if it was stuck open creating a leak, but I do not have a fitv because of my throttle body. I will check my wires when I get out if work and make sure they are indeed getting the right power and securely connected. Wouldn't a bad connection/not enough voltage throw a code?
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I thought we went over this before? Hmm maybe it was" myb18b" but yes 95s do have Fit valves, but I do not have one because aftermarket throttle body. Fit valve is for cold startup, the only way that would have been a problem was if it was stuck open creating a leak, but I do not have a fitv because of my throttle body. I will check my wires when I get out if work and make sure they are indeed getting the right power and securely connected. Wouldn't a bad connection/not enough voltage throw a code?
Oh yeah, I forgot you didn't have a FIV lol. But it wouldn't always throw a code OBD1 systems are kinda **** at seeing if something like that is jacked. In fact, I don't even think there is a code for IAC malfunctions for OBD1, I think there is for OBD2a/b.
 

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I thought we went over this before? Hmm maybe it was" myb18b" but yes 95s do have Fit valves, but I do not have one because aftermarket throttle body. Fit valve is for cold startup, the only way that would have been a problem was if it was stuck open creating a leak, but I do not have a fitv because of my throttle body. I will check my wires when I get out if work and make sure they are indeed getting the right power and securely connected. Wouldn't a bad connection/not enough voltage throw a code?
Oh yeah, I forgot you didn't have a FIV lol. But it wouldn't always throw a code OBD1 systems are kinda **** at seeing if something like that is jacked. In fact, I don't even think there is a code for IAC malfunctions for OBD1, I think there is for OBD2a/b.
So just for ****s and giggles I decided to pull my Iac out again and it is definitely my issue now, it maybe moves 1/4 now as to before where it moved all the way shut and all the way open with no resistance. I find this to be hilariously coincidental.. Seeing as I just pulled it and cleaned it and tested it. I'm ordering a used one that's tested to work off eBay for $120 overnight shipped instead of $289 from a parts store. So this is how I think it went down. When I cleaned the Iac it was perfectly working, but I had no plug on my evap port on top of the throttle body which caused a vac leak, that I didn't notice until yesterday, now that I plugged the evap port up the Iac jammed up and like you mentioned earlier maybe the grease freed it up a bit to stop the surging idle but still cause a high idle. We will find out when the new (used) Iac is installed. God I hope this is it. I might finally be able to fix the other things I've been neglecting.. Like the defective ff coilovers I received. Already my rear shocks are squealing and creaking and the ride is just terrible and the damper adjustment only clicks 20 times instead of 32. Thank God for 1 year warranty.
 

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Discussion Starter #7 (Edited)
Motor swap stuff.

A motor swap is not an easy process, 90% of motors you can put in a car will not be plug & play with the existing harness. If for some odd reason, you have a pre-96 car with an OBD2a/b harness in it, GET A NEW HARNESS BEFORE SWAPPING THE MOTOR.

If your motor is running like crap, chances are it's either running rich as hell, or way too lean, hope for rich. But do not fear, there is a fix that should cost no more than $200 (USD), buy an aftermarket fuel pressure regulator or chip and tune your ECU.

"I bought a shell/car with <whatever non-stock motor> and it won't start, HELP!!!" Check your battery, chances are, it's not hooked up. Yes, sometimes it's that dumb of an issue. Other than that, make sure you didn't leave anything unplugged. If it's still not running, leave a reply here, we'll see if we can't help you out.

"Will trans A fit on motor B?" 90% of the time, if the motor is a B-series (B16, B18, B20) it will fit on any trans that was found on a B-series. I.e. A trans off of a B16 will fit on a B20 and vise versa. Same thing with F-series and J-series and ect.

"Can ECU A work with motor B?" As I was informed not long ago myself, any ECU (OBD0, OBD1, OBD2a/b) will work for any motor from the same series. I.e. An ECU for a B18 will work for a B20 and ect. Just make sure that if your motor has Vtec, that your ECU also supports Vtec. Look here for information on identifying ECUs.

If you have any more questions or issues, feel free to leave a comment.
 

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Discussion Starter #8 (Edited)
Power loss troubleshooting.

This is in no real order or complete:

Check oil. Replace if needed.

Check your fuel. Fuel can go bad.

Check air filter. Replace or clean as needed.

Look for a vacuum leak. Take a can of brakleen or carb/throttle body cleaner and spray it around all of your vacuum fittings. If the car bogs, dies, or almost dies, you found your leak. Now fix it. Brakleen and carb cleaner is/can be flammable, please use caution, best judgement, and take the proper safety steps to prevent you from burning your car to the ground. And avoid spraying it on/around things that can spark or gets really hot, like your alt. and exhaust.

Check for faulty/malfunctioning IAC and/or FIV. If damaged or otherwise malfunctioning, replace or rebuild.

Check timing on both cams and crank. If your off by even one tooth, it can and will rob power. There may also be an underlining issue, investigate it.

Check your power system (battery, alt., ect.) and your ignition system (dizzy, spark plugs, wires, ect.).

Check fuel pressure.

Check fuel air ratio. There is a number of methods to do this without the use of a wideband, just google around. Try this last -> Adjust if need be (there is a screw top middle-ish of most TBs).

Check crank driven accessories (PS, A/C, ect.). Replace, rebuild, remove as needed.

Check the rest of the fuel system (injectors, fuel rail, fuel lines, fuel filter, ect.). Replace as needed.

CHECK YOUR TRANS FLUID. This is something that so many people over look. Just like your engine, the oil inside your trans DOES need to be changed. Use either Honda MTF or a syncromesh MTF. DO NOT use ATF or gear oil unless your owners manual states other wise. You can use 10w-30 in most Honda trans', but it's not suggested.
 

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This site has been here for over ten years. Most of the newer threads mess up the searching feature because people are too lazy to click through links.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
That's for a stock swap... I.e. A 90~93 B18A1 being removed another B18A1 put in. That doesn't help people to much when they have a 96+ motor being put into a pre-96 car, or any other "non plug-and-play" motor. There is modification that need to be done, to the harness mainly, in order for the new motor to run properly.
 

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That's for a stock swap... I.e. A 90~93 B18A1 being removed another B18A1 put in. That doesn't help people to much when they have a 96+ motor being put into a pre-96 car, or any other "non plug-and-play" motor. There is modification that need to be done, to the harness mainly, in order for the new motor to run properly.

This is true, and if you search you will find all the information you need. I don't feel like linking all the links to this thread.
 

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This thread really isn't going to do much help. I've noticed there are pretty much two kinds of people on this site. The first kind are the ones who apparently don't know how to use Google. They ask questions that have been answered a million times and they are never going to see this thread because they don't search. The second kind are people who actually do their own legwork. They may ask questions from time to time but, for the most part, these questions end up in their build logs or are just theoretical/debate questions on which parts are better. Most technical info and fixes/problems have been covered on this site since it has been around so long.
 

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This thread really isn't going to do much help. I've noticed there are pretty much two kinds of people on this site. The first kind are the ones who apparently don't know how to use Google. They ask questions that have been answered a million times and they are never going to see this thread because they don't search. The second kind are people who actually do their own legwork. They may ask questions from time to time but, for the most part, these questions end up in their build logs or are just theoretical/debate questions on which parts are better. Most technical info and fixes/problems have been covered on this site since it has been around so long.
This. ALL of this.
 
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