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Discussion Starter #1

i have taken apart part number 25 in this picture. can anyone confirm that this is the part that fails?

anyway, i proceeded to take apart the motor assembly.


the front of the assembly


the rear of the assembly. the lever doesnt move at all when i slided the hatch lever to open.


with the front cover taken off. im guessing either the motor or cog 2 is the problem.


cogs 1 and 2 removed. note the mold holds cog 2 where the motor pinion thingy extends out to.



closeup of cog 2


cog 2 disassembled. the green/blue part 2d fits into the mold that i pointed out earlier. this keeps part 2d stationary while the rest of cog 2 moves around. cog 2b has a notch that cog 2c fits into.


underside of cog 2a. notice the notches. spins independently of the rest of cog 2a.


as cog 2d remains stationary while the rest of cog 2 spins around, it provides friction to this black part, cog 2c. cog 2b spins around freely and pushes against cog 2c, pushing out the lock, which locks into 2a's teeth and spins it. ( refer to closeup of cog 2 )

now the problem is here, the friction applied from cog 2d onto cog 2c is too much for the motor to overcome, so the cogs dont spin. motor works fine.

haha sorry im not too sure how to explain this. if there isnt a solution to this..i guess i can always get to the junkyard or order the part..
 

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i think it's #25 because the open rod is connected to that. and if you ever listened to one that actually opens... the sounds comes more from # 25 than it does #14..

i've also read people taking it to acura.. and they replaced the "actulator" which i believe is #25... so check that one out homie...
 

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Discussion Starter #3
yea, sorry, after looking over again on the pic, the part *is* number 25..
 

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have you figured it out yet jeremy? what im tryin to figure out is how tha fcuk does "cog 2b" contact to move "cog 2a".

also instead of having 4 nothces on the "cog 2a", i have only two, which are across from each other.

this design is so gay i swear, but ill figure it out... soo gayyy!!! ahhhhhh!!!
 

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Discussion Starter #5
i havent figured it out myself really either. i still have the part laying here and im just about to checkout the junkyards if they have it. if not, i havent decided yet if ill get the part replaced or live it as-is. ive pretty much gotten used to using the key.
 

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yo jeremy, i found out my problem, but it might not be the same as yours since my was rusted like a mofo.

the problem was the motor in the actuator. i dont know if it has to do with the rust, but it's too weak to turn all the gears. oh yes, my dad explained the cog 2a 2b thing. turned out what i thought was right.

so yea, now i needa find a new motor, which i dont think i can, so i gotta take a trip to the junkie also. if i cant find one there... off to acura...

up date pics* i was gonna do an article on how to fix it, but since it's my motor...



this pic shows the rust before i cleaned it. when i first took out this motor, it was seized and would not turn...



so i used some needle nose pliers and some elbow grease to get it moving freely again. then added some oil.



here's the motor with most of the brown rust cleaned off...



after re-installing everything, i felt semi confident that it was gonna work. so i tested it without the cover on, switched the switch and it barely moved the gear. so tomorrow me and my dad are gonna try to modify the design and see if we can get it going again... stupid design...
 

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Discussion Starter #8
hahahaha..sounds like a plan.
my motor spins, but i have no clue if it provides enough torque to move all the gears..

how the hell did your motor get like that? mines not rusty like that..
i wonder if it'll be any help if i submerge the motor in water and clean out the internals? it's done a lot in electric RC motors.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
the water method is supposed to break in the motor by cleaning the commutators within the motor.
from what i heard, it also gives it more torque output because it is more efficient after doing this.
 

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that looks like a pretty standard motor that you can find at radio shack, except for the screw part, but it looks like you could just remove that and put it on a new one. why the hell does honda make things so complicated? youd think something like pulling a lever and opening something would be pretty damn simple but they just had to ver engineer it and add gears, clutches, and motors.if i wasnt so lazy and poor id overhaul and redesign all these overcomplicated parts. are relaible engines and nice looking cars all that honda can do right? and why do i always type so much!!!
 

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I too had a problem with my '98 hatch actuator. I replaced the entire assembly from www.acuraautomotiveparts.org. The motor seems to lose its "umph" with age and is too weak to turn the gears. once I replaced the assembly the hatch unlocked perfectly.
Try this parts site. I have used it for all my OEM replacement needs.
Bill.
 

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my '00 lever (#14 in pic) won't release once you've opened the hatch. You have to return it back to its porper position or the hatch won't lock. It seems to bind a bit. If you open it and let the lever go real quick it will return. I've tried spraying it with white litium grease and nothing changed. Anyone else?
 

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My '00 doesn't have a hatch release lever by the fuel filler door release lever that's beside your seat, like my '91 does. I can open the hatch fine, it's just a pain to close (won't catch), especially when my hatch shocks are gone, and I have to hold it up while monkeying with the lever. Got a set of shocks comin from Ebay, should be showin up any day. I hope they fit.
 

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Thanks Kelly, I'll yard it out and grind that detent down. Sound like that's exactly the same problem I've got. I'm going to call that 800 # and complain too. The reason I bought another teg is because crap like this never buggered up on my '91. Unlike American autos, it's still as good as the day I bought it. I see everyone has had troubles with their hatch shocks on G3s too. I'm still on the orginal ones on my '91 and they work perfect (unlike the set I just ordered off Ebay for my '00). Where's the quality control on their components they used to have.
 

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I put some silicone spray lubricant on the lever and the latch (top bottom parts) over the weekend and I was unable to open the hatch that night. The next morning the hatch opened fine, and now it seems to work better. I'm wondering if that was the right thing to do. I worry everytime I close the hatch and think if its the last time I am able to open it.

Anyway about the hatch shocks, is it ok to lubricate it with the silicone spray? My hatch raises kinda slow, so I was wondering.
 

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Lubricating the rod of your shocks will keep it in good condition and prevent the seals from drying out but it will not speed up their operation. They're loosing their gas charge and that's why they're slow. only solution is to eventually replace I'm afraid. The set I bought from ebay worked fine. They're cheap and they go on backwords but they work ok.
 
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