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Discussion Starter #1
Hey guys, i've heard a lot about a fuel cutoff switch (and how effective it is), but i havent been able to find any specific information about installing it. Can anyone help me out? What parts to buy, where to find the correct wires to "splice" etc. Thanks a lot guys!
 

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From ELMn8R;s Fuel Filter Replace Article, he has a pic of the top of the fuel pump (sliver thing with three screws holding it.... you are going to want to interrupt the 12v lead into the pump with a switch, and voila, switch "off" (breaks the connection), fuel pump gets no power resulting in thief not getting any gas to drive away in
 

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Can you remotely start your car if you have a fuel cutoff
switch? I know for the ignition switch you can because
you can just hookup the remote starter after the switch,
but what about for the fuel cutoff switch? Would you
have to use a relay to turn on the switch or something?
 

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cpgoose on Sep/16/02 said:
Can you remotely start your car if you have a fuel cutoff
switch? I know for the ignition switch you can because
you can just hookup the remote starter after the switch,
but what about for the fuel cutoff switch? Would you
have to use a relay to turn on the switch or something?
you'd have to close the "fuel cut off" circuit with the status output of the remote start...

because if the fuel pump isn't getting power, its not going to let gas flow whether its started by remote or started by the key
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Ok, so i'm basically removing the back seat to get to the fuel pump, then cut the ground wire, run a new wire to wherever i want it, put a switch there and complete the circuit with a switch? sound right?

here's a couple of questions for whoever can answer them:

1) Anybody ever have any reliability problems?

2) was morningZ talking about where his finger is (for the wires)?



3) what gauge wire should i be using? would something like the remote wire for the stereo? or would i need something nice and thick?

4) Is the backseat removal for the hatchback the same for a 4door?
 

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The PGM-FI main relay assembly is the gray box right above the hood release and should have [Mitsuba RZ-0159 Assembly, Main Relay] stamped on the top of it. If you cut the black wire into this connector and run it through a switch, when the switch is open the ground of the ECM relay coil circuit is open which prevents the ECM relay from engaging and sending power to both the fuel pump and the ECM.
There are two relays in the main relay assembly - one controls a power feed to the ECM and the other controls the power feed to the fuel pump. The ECM relay has to engage in order for the fuel pump relay to engage (the ECM relay feeds the fuel pump coil circuit).
I chose the coil side because it carries very little current. Use a good switch, and if you use the starter interrupt to open this circuit, consider its failure mode (will the car still start if the alarm breaks). Even if my alarm breaks, my car will still start as my circuit fails closed. This also means if the alarm power is killed, my disable circuit doesn't work. My alarm has back-up power, so the chances of this are lessened, and this wire is not only switched by my alarm but also utimately grounds through my alarm, so if the alarm box is ripped out the car won't start, and if the .....
There isn't a right or wrong way, just consider the options.
If you want you can also kill just the fuel pump at this same connector. Just do the same, but cut the GRN/BLU wire. This puts the switch in only the fuel pump coil circuit.

EDIT 1: I noticed that there are two black wires connected together at the main relay instead of the one on the schematic I was referring to. I believe one of the black wires at the main relay is simply grounded at a bolt nearby (I did this long ago) - this is the black wire to cut. You could insert a switch inline and ground elsewhere if you want instead of using the factory ground.

EDIT 2: Because the black wire issue has caused confusion, I no longer recommend cutting it unless you can figure out oN YOUR OWN which one to cut. I now suggest this: click (last post).
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Thanks guys!

So Kelly is suggesting that i go under the hood di have a switch that kills the ECU, and in turn, kills the fuel pump. But doesnt that reset all the error codes? How long have you had you switch?

MorningZ-
How long have you had your switch? Have you had any reliability problems before? (car wont start, wires burn out?) You're basically telling me to run a wire from under my backseat (fuelpump) and to wherever i want to hide the switch right? There isnt much to get my hands dirty with right?

I'm trying to go for something really simple that might stump a car theif just a little bit. I'm guessing MorningZ's way may be a bit more simple. Do you have any pictures of your fuel pump after the switch has been installed? (or draw it on the picture from the articles with adobe so i can be sure which wire to cut out) More importantly, what size wire should i be using, are speaker wires ok? I'll probably need a good 20 feet of wire right?

Thanks again guys!
 

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i dont have the switch in my car.. its simply knowledge on how to do it...

reliability is directly related to installation quality.. do a careful job, it'll last forever, hack it together, its a waste of time
 

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The main relay is inside, above the hood release lever - above the driver's kick panel. Why add approx 14 feet of wire to the high current fuel pump line? That's ten feet of added resistance and 14 feet of potential short. What I suggested is much simpler and much more reliable. The codes are not affected. With the kill switch open, the main relay assembly stays in the same state as it did when the ignition key was off. The codes are maintained by another circuit (backup).
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Kelly-
Ok, so when you park your car for long term, you turn it off, then open the switch right? what are the parts needed? just a switch? I have always had the feeling that relays are hard to deal with (complicated to understand, brings me back to physics with magetic charge and everything) But what you are saying is very true, i dont want to run the risk of having my fuel pump go out while driving....

So the box is under the das, but is it behind the fuse box or soemthing? I'll have a look tomorrow morning, but hey, can you be more specific with the wires i need to introduce a switch into? And what is the ECM anways? Do you have any conflicts with your alarm system? (I have the common viper one)

keep in mind i'm trying to keep this simple =)

just out of curiousity, what happens when you try to start the car when the circuit is open? does it even start?

Thanks!!!!!
 

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the car will start, but it will run out of fuel really fast since there is nothing feeding the gas to the engine....

look, you obviously are not very comfortable with doing this, so as you say, and say it perfectly, keep it simple

you buy a on/off switch at radio shack, find the power feed to the fuel pump, cut the wire, extend each side of the wire to your hidden switch, wire in the switch (preferrably with solder so its nice and tight).... done.... Switch on = engine gets gas, Switch Off = engine gets only gas thats already in the lines

you don't have to worry about relays, you are not going to sensitive computer equipment where, if you don't know what you are doing, you could eaily damage something
 

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MorningZ on Sep/16/02 said:
Quote: cpgoose on Sep/16/02Can you remotely start your car if you have a fuel cutoff switch? I know for the ignition switch you can because
you can just hookup the remote starter after the switch,
but what about for the fuel cutoff switch? Would you
have to use a relay to turn on the switch or something?
you'd have to close the "fuel cut off" circuit with the status output of the remote start...

because if the fuel pump isn't getting power, its not going to let gas flow whether its started by remote or started by the key
[/quote]
So basicly I can't do this if I want an auto start too....
 

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The way morning explained it, it seems like you cant autostart your car if you got a fuel cutoff switch. I was thinking of installing a fuel cutoff switch too. Gotta think this one out.
 

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you can do this with remote start, but it will involve a relay

most remote start systems have a "status output" that shows a ground when it is activate, so you would use this ground to close the circuit of the fuel pump
 

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Lenn,

With my method the car will not start, just spin, as the injectors don't fire. You would just cut either of the wires I suggested and hook up a switch inline. Cut the wire and run one side of the cut wire to one side of the switch and the other side of the cut wire to the other side of the switch. When the switch is open, the car won't start.

I used the ECM (Engine Control Module - the computer) circuit because it kills the fuel and the computer. My alarm controls this circuit with a relay. I do not have a manual switch. If I did, I would use it as you suggested. I gave detailed info on the location and color of the wires - check it out. You should see what I am talking about.

I don't have a remote starter. I have no conflicts. The car will crank but not start when the circuit is open. I always solder, heat shrink, carefully route, secure, and split loom. I agree with MorningZ, except I would insert the switch into the circuit I suggested for the reasons I suggested. If you are not comfortable doing this, get someone who is to help you. It is quite easy to damage things if you are not exactly sure what you are doing.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
thanks a lot kelly, yea, i'm not making myself out as an electritian or anything, so i guess i'll play it safe morningZ's way cuz i have an alarm and everything, and there are still a couple of kinks i'll need to work out.

Ok morningZ, i'm going with your proposition, hehehe, quick thing though, what is the difference between cutting the ground, and cutting the 12v?

Thanks for putting up with my stupid questions guys, lol
 
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