Team Integra Forums banner

1 - 14 of 14 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
35 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Well about 6 months ago the trunk latch on my 00 LS started acting spotty, sometimes it would open, sometimes not. Then it just stopped working altogether. I, like most people, just resorted to using the key to open, but that became cumbersome after a while because I actually use the trunk a lot. So I decided to try and fix the problem.

First I started with the research and found some info:

How to Fix an Acura Integra Hatch Actuator - Team Integra Forums - Team Integra

Trunk release problem solution (don't give accura a cent!) - Honda-Tech


I knew it was something in the actuator because I could hear the click from the latch switch and the actuator motor spin a little. So I dissected it and found many complex gears and parts:



Under the small gear is this broken part. Same as the person from the first link.



I tried to glue it back as the person in the first link suggested, but with no success because there is a lot of tension from the spring that attaches to it. I tried crazy/super glue, even the heavy duty plastic epoxy. No luck.



So I abandoned that and started looking at new actuators. The OEM unit cost about $60 online, but then I came across this:

Cause For Alarm ver7 - Trunk Pop


I figured why buy a stock actuator that is complex, expensive, and prone to breaking when I could buy this DEI 524N unit for about $20 on eBay.

Installing the DEI was pretty easy. I found a good location where I didn't have to drill into anything. First I threaded the supplied rod to the actuator and connected it loosely to the latch rod (C). Then I screwed in the actuator to the supplied metal strap (A). Then I just attached the strap to a couple of the existing bolts/studs sticking out in the area (B). I think they are studs for the taillight. I had to enlarge one of the holes in the strap a little, then used some nuts to lock it on. Then aligned the rods at the connector for a good pull and tightened it down (C).




Wired it using Posi-taps. On my 00 LS the red/white wire is power and orange/yellow is ground. So I wired the green wire from the actuator to red/white and blue to orange/yellow.



Everything connected.



Tucked in the wires.



Cover still fits.



Done! Works great. That's all folks.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
101 Posts
not a bad idea but BTW guys I found another honda actuator that has that same part. So you will have to take it apart and swap it out and that actuator is about $30EMPprice from honda
72623-SHJ-A21 / ACTUATOR ASSY., R. SLIDE DOOR POWER RELEASE DN$25.94

I was unable to get ahold of the company that makes the actuator
 

·
Administrator
Joined
·
43,014 Posts
I have a question and a comment to add to this topic:

Question: I am a little confused on what the side effects of this replacement are in regards to the fact the OEM assembly is part of the central locking system (and I'm talking 98-01 of course).... i *think* you have the actuator activated by the latch/handle on the trunk lid itself, which is an electrical signal.... when the car is locked, does it prevent that latch from sending the signal to open?

Comment: I'd definitely like to add to anyone looking to do this replacement to either

(1) use LocTite or the like on the screws holding the OEM release rod to the actuator's rod (pic above)... that brass piece and their respective screws typically suck/break/loosen

(2) i've always, and I am talking 16+ years of doing so, used a speed clip and a screw to mate the rods together instead of the included brass stuff
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
35 Posts
Discussion Starter #9
not a bad idea but BTW guys I found another honda actuator that has that same part. So you will have to take it apart and swap it out and that actuator is about $30EMPprice from honda
72623-SHJ-A21 / ACTUATOR ASSY., R. SLIDE DOOR POWER RELEASE DN$25.94

I was unable to get ahold of the company that makes the actuator
cool option for those who want to keep it stock. but yeah, unless that little part is manufactured differently than before, u are still dealing with a part that's prone to breaking.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
35 Posts
Discussion Starter #10
I have a question and a comment to add to this topic:

Question: I am a little confused on what the side effects of this replacement are in regards to the fact the OEM assembly is part of the central locking system (and I'm talking 98-01 of course).... i *think* you have the actuator activated by the latch/handle on the trunk lid itself, which is an electrical signal.... when the car is locked, does it prevent that latch from sending the signal to open?

Comment: I'd definitely like to add to anyone looking to do this replacement to either

(1) use LocTite or the like on the screws holding the OEM release rod to the actuator's rod (pic above)... that brass piece and their respective screws typically suck/break/loosen

(2) i've always, and I am talking 16+ years of doing so, used a speed clip and a screw to mate the rods together instead of the included brass stuff
no side effects. it still operates like before. when the car is lock, the latch won't open the trunk. good idea on the rod connector. i'm gonna loctie the screws and use a speed clip!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
33 Posts
I know this is an old thread but just to warn people I have gone through 3 of the dei actuators and they have all blew after a
month of installing, so I settled with an $8 actuator off ebay and have had no problems yet

This is a very good right up and has really helped me and other friends that I have told just try and stay away from dei actuator.



 

·
Registered
Joined
·
35 Posts
Discussion Starter #12
After seeing a few broken latch threads come up lately, I thought I would do an update. After almost two years of daily use, everything is still good. Whoohoo!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1 Posts
After seeing a few broken latch threads come up lately, I thought I would do an update. After almost two years of daily use, everything is still good. Whoohoo!
First off, thanks for posting the full context of this innovative solution to fix the frequently breaking rear tailgate actuator on Acura Integra.
As per your instructions, I got a DEI actuator you had posted and was able install it on my 2001 GSR replacing my broken one. I verified that the actuator works ok and I can open my hatch now with a single hand now, but 2 issues remain:
1. The hatch lock opens when I use key in the trunk and then release the hatch lever. But when I use the power lock from the driver seat to unlock, it does not open the trunk hatch. I have to use the key on the trunk to open the lock
2. Once the hatch is open, I am able to close the hatch fully only after locking the hatch with the key. If I don't lock ahead, the hatch bounces open.
I have played around with the actuator rod positions quite a bit but no joy!. Just wondering if the actuator is not powerful enough to fully handle the release.

How did you manage to get around these issues!
 
1 - 14 of 14 Posts
Top