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Discussion Starter #1
Hey my b18 on my 97ls has 220k miles, and may be able to get a b18 complete engine with 90k for $5500 what do you guys think? Should I run a compression test on mine first?
 

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Which B18 are you being quoted? And when you say complete does that come with transmission? That sounds like a price for a type R motor.
And if your B18 is running fine then keep saving money. That is just me, but we all do what we want to do at the end.
 

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Hey my b18 on my 97ls has 220k miles, and may be able to get a b18 complete engine with 90k for $5500 what do you guys think? Should I run a compression test on mine first?
B18C1? B18C5? $5500 is steep for any stock B or K series engine, you could have an engine built for that much $$. Compression & leak down check yours and unless it blown run it into the ground :biggrin: then upgrade
 

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High mileage
As long as everything checks out on your current engine, the other one will most likely act just the same. $550 is an OK price. You can get a B20 CRV engine and it's a direct drop in -- you'll have a bit more torque.
I paid $400 plus tax for a JDM (no benefit in this case, just low mileage due to the way Japan interprets "high mileage") B20, and it was a direct drop in, just needed an LS intake manifold.
I already had a chipped ECU of the same OBD, so I just ordered a base tune chip (which ran a little rich) and had the car tuned later because I was running high flow intake, headers, and exhaust from my high-output B18C1 that dropped a valve.

If you are going to go through all the work of swapping an engine, you could save up a bit more and get a VTEC engine and really enjoy the teg.

Edit: @drmix beat me to it :mrs_eusa_doh:
 

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First off, 5500 is a complete rip off for that engine.
Second, you need to think of what you want from the car long term, and how much work and money you are willing to put into it.
Want to do some work yourself and put money into it for a motor build? Grab a b20, mate it with a gsr or b16 tranny, and then do i/h/c/e mods and maybe even eventually a vtec head and some possible extra engine work and you'll have a pretty fun quick little all motor b20 that should get around 200whp, depending on the upgrades and whatnot.

Looking for boost later? B18s are better to start with if you plan on going 300+, b20s can give you more torque but you have unreliable sleeves at 300+

Don't really care? Grab a b20 or b18c, get a good tranny if you want it to be a bit more peppy.
 

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Ya which motor is best to turbo to <300 hp with the least work swapping.
Like @Geis said, the b18 that you currently have is better for turbo.
The B20 is *basically* the same thing, but a bigger bore. That means thinner sleeves.
The factory B18 that you have can handle more boost. Make sure that everything is in check though service-wise. Valves, piston rings, etc. In the end the motor is so cheap, you can invest in a decent turbo setup, and if the motor ends up failing you can just buy another ;)

And with boost, no need for shorter gears as you'll have all the torque you need to pull off (though a high-output NA is damn fun).
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Like @Geis said, the b18 that you currently have is better for turbo.
The B20 is *basically* the same thing, but a bigger bore. That means thinner sleeves.
The factory B18 that you have can handle more boost. Make sure that everything is in check though service-wise. Valves, piston rings, etc. In the end the motor is so cheap, you can invest in a decent turbo setup, and if the motor ends up failing you can just buy another ;)

And with boost, no need for shorter gears as you'll have all the torque you need to pull off (though a high-output NA is damn fun).
Awesome thanks you guys. So, I plan on ending up using the same b18b1 type engine, but would it be worth it to buy one with over 100k less miles on it? ~$500
 
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