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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Can't get ahead lately, just one problem after another...

For background, I own a 2000 integra LS that some idiot decided to throw a stock B16A2 into, as far as I know nothing else under the hood was changed that would affect the engine.

Today, I started the car up fine, sounded fine, ran fine. As the engine warmed up, periodically the engine would start to stutter and the harder I hit the gas, the louder it got but I got very little power to the wheels. And it would just go away. After about 15 minutes, when I was almost to where I was going, it started and wouldn't stop. Now when I started the car not long after (Engine was still warm, but not quite operating temp) it started rough and continued stuttering in idle and when gas'ed. I also noticed white smoke coming from the exhaust only (that I could tell) and a strong gasoline odor.

After about an hour of research I have found A LOT of postings around the web pointing this to either a blown gasket or a cracked head, allow coolant to leak into the cylinders (causing the white smoke/steam), which may also cause the O2 sensor to go haywire and inject more fuel, causing the gasoline smell.

I did find somewhere, however, that this same issue could be caused by bad fuel injector(s), is this possible? How could I diagnose this?

Anything would be appreciated,
-Murph
 

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Discussion Starter #6
You know, I did check the coolant, and it did look kind of brown but I figured it was the discolored container tinting it, so I blew it off.
 

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If it has a rusty looking color to it, like what you would see on the rotors after it has sit for a while, then that's the radiator going bad do to only running water. But if it has a brown-ish/black-ish color then thats oil mixing with the coolant as it passes thru the block. Which in turn means blown HG.

Time to open her up, and also the perfect time to build her up if that's what you had planned...
 

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Discussion Starter #8
So far it seems the coolant just looked brown because of the pinkish coolant mixing with the dingy color of the container, went ahead and drained and flushed it anyway and put new stuff in it.

Absolutely no "milky" anything in the oil after multiple checks of the dipstick from cold to warm.

Checked the distributor, which is supposed to be less than a year old, and it looks fine.

Checked all the spark plugs, one of them came out really wet and smelling of gas (not oil).

Theory right now is bad injector, possibly just staying open and flooding the engine with gas, causing the rich smell from the exhaust.

Won't be able to work on it again until next weekend though. Any thoughts are welcome.
 

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I'd swap the injector over and see if the same problem starts happening in a different cylinder.

It still can be a head gasket leak. The water stops the fuel being burnt, creating wet/gasoline smelling plugs.

Swap the injectors, and if the "wetness" changes cylinders then you've got an injector problem.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
They all spark, including the wet one.

I removed the injectors and one looked way different from the rest:


I replaced it, but when i reassembled everything I have a leak, and I appear to be missing a seal. I don't have a clue what this is even called and spent the last 45 minutes searching for diagrams or anything i could use to identify the name of this to look up the seal, but can't find crap.


I can see where something should belong in that ring, it must have fallen out when I removed it from the fuel rail. So any idea what it's called? Or even better, the name of the seal itself?
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Well, leak fixed.

New injector to replace funky looking one.

The only change is the sound from the exhaust is much deeper, still sounds very rough and gives little power to the wheels.

Can only make out a very small puff of the white smoke but the exhaust still smells gasy and just seems to be running rich.

I've been told by a lot of people that unless the oil is milky it is not a head gasket issue, and it's not milky.

Any other ideas or am I SOL and need to go to a shop...
 

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I had an issue like this with my 94 LS with 284k miles. I solved it by retorquing the head.

I rebuilt my engine and things were working fine. At maybe 500-600 on the rebuild it sputtered on startup and took maybe 15 seconds to clear out and run normally.

Then it wouldn't start after shutting it down when hot. If I left it sit all night and it was cool it would start but sputter and them steam slightly out of the exhaust for a few minutes.

If it wouldn't start I could pull the plugs and clean them of the coolant which was fouling them. Another thread said that the head was under torqued.

In my case, I reused the head bolts. The threaded bolts holes and the bolt threads were totally clean and dry when I installed them. I noticed when torqueing them that they made a few little creaks right before full torque. My machinist/mechanical engineering friend said that this was friction on the threads and was preventing the bolts from creating the full clamping force on the head.

So I pulled them out and oiled and torques them one-by-one starting with the last bolt in the tightening sequence. This has apparently solved the problem. The car starts normally after hot shutdown.

I didn't have any other problems associated with blown head gaskets like oil/coolant mixing or rough running.
 
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