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1999 Acura Integra GS
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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
I didn't think it would come to this, but unfortunately here I am. About a two months ago after filling my tank up at Costco, I went to start my car and it immediately bogged down and seemed like it might stall. That problem subsided and I ended up making it home no issues. About two weeks later my engine started misfiring and my temp gauge was in the red. I drained and refilled my car with coolant(It was desperately low), and my car ran much cooler and quit misfiring. Two weeks later coming home feom a football game, my engine began to misfire again. Engine codes were P0302 and P1399. Figured it would be a quick fix, but a month later and plenty of work done.. Still having the same misfire and codes. I'm a college student, and have been working on this car for 4 years now. I'm broke as can be and can't afford to take it in somewhere, and I'm fearful of a blown head gasket. Any guidance will be appreciated.

1999 Acura Integra GS
235,000 Miles
I'm the 2nd owner. No modifications have been done.

Here is a list of things I have done/replaced:
New spark plugs
New spark plug wires
New distributor(entire unit)
New sparkplug o-rings
New valve cover gasket
New cam seal
New Alternator(Was getting 10v when running, now 14v.. Still didn't fix)
New fuel pressure regulator and o-ring
Compression Test Reads 150, 130, 130, 140(Faulty test.. Throttle wasn't wide open for final 3 cylinders and attachment was actually stuck in cyl 1 and I didn't realize until later.. Stupid mistake by me)

Oil looks clean and free of coolant.. No foam, no bubbles, No white smoke coming form engine or exhaust.

Coolant does have a super slow leak somewhere I believe. (About 2 inches from "Max" line in reservoir. Took about a month to get there.)

Took a look at injectors and a bunch of dried up black gunk had came out when I pulled them, but unsure if they are the issue. Didn't want to replace the stock ones if I didn't need to.

All work has been done myself and everything was tightened to correct torque specs.

My brain tells me to replace injectors and fuel filter.. but figured I'd ask here for opinions or guidance first.

Cheers..
-Hunter
 

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1999 Acura Integra GS
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9 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I haven't seen anything mentioned about your valve lash. When has that been last adjusted?
Oh man, I couldn’t tell ya.. Certainly not since I’ve gotten my hands on the car. So at least 5 years/40k miles. Got class all day but definitely will take a stab at that tomorrow. Thank you for mentioning.. I wouldn’t have thought of this. Could this also be why I hear a clicking noise when accelerating in gears 1-3?
 

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1999 Acura Integra GS
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9 Posts
Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Redo your compression test and hook an actual gauge into your fuel system to determine your actual fuel pressure.
Just re-ran the compression test correctly..
Cyl 1: 145
Cyl 2: 135
Cyl 3: 130
Cyl 4: 145

Not good I'm guessing.

Where do I hook a gauge up to for the fuel pressure? Do integras not have a schrader valve?
 

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Minimum according to the manual is 135. You could technically say the 130 reading is bad, but just as important is the consistency of the readings. Yours are staying within roughly 10% of the peak, so the engine should run smoothly if not weak.

No, there is no service port to measure fuel system pressure on the Integra. The easiest way is to go on ebay and for about $20 you can get an adapter and gauge that will replace the banjo bolt in the top of the filter. It's basically just the same banjo bolt with an NPT thread out the top.

And then if you want to check some other things that don't require spending any money, pop off your distributor cap and see if there is ANY oil puddled or even residue along the bottom. There are a number of o-rings that seal between the distributor and head. Even a slight leak with barely any oil making its way into the distributor can wreak havoc on the ignition. And o-rings are cheap. And if you do end up having to pull the distributor, make sure to scribe yourself a line between it and the mounting flange so you don't have to get a timing light to reset your timing.
 

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1999 Acura Integra GS
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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I haven't seen anything mentioned about your valve lash. When has that been last adjusted?
Just finished adjusting my valves. All but 1 were either way too tight or way too loose. Some were so tight on the exhaust side I wasn't even able to fit a 13mm gauge in between.. Others so loose I could fit 23mm in no problem. Same for the intake side but of course with the respective sizes. Took me 3 and a half hours and a lot of back pain, but I fired her up and to my surprise, no misfires. Cleared the engine codes and let it completely warm up before driving it to the gas station to put some new gas in the tank. Again, no misfires. On the way home I decided to push it a little harder and still NO MISFIRES. I also don't hear the clicking noise I was hearing before when accelerating in lower gears. Will continue to drive it tomorrow and so on until I start misfiring again or I'm confident the problem is fixed. Thank you so much for the guidance.. I was almost ready to sell the damn thing for parts. You're awesome.
 

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1999 Acura Integra GS
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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Minimum according to the manual is 135. You could technically say the 130 reading is bad, but just as important is the consistency of the readings. Yours are staying within roughly 10% of the peak, so the engine should run smoothly if not weak.

No, there is no service port to measure fuel system pressure on the Integra. The easiest way is to go on ebay and for about $20 you can get an adapter and gauge that will replace the banjo bolt in the top of the filter. It's basically just the same banjo bolt with an NPT thread out the top.

And then if you want to check some other things that don't require spending any money, pop off your distributor cap and see if there is ANY oil puddled or even residue along the bottom. There are a number of o-rings that seal between the distributor and head. Even a slight leak with barely any oil making its way into the distributor can wreak havoc on the ignition. And o-rings are cheap. And if you do end up having to pull the distributor, make sure to scribe yourself a line between it and the mounting flange so you don't have to get a timing light to reset your timing.
I believe/hope adjusting my valves fixed the misfiring(See reply above), but I did go ahead and check the dizzy. Everything looked clean and new still. I also ordered the adapter to the gauge I already have and am going to test fuel pressure anyways. Thank you for all your help/knowledge.
 

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......
Took a look at injectors and a bunch of dried up black gunk had came out when I pulled them, but unsure if they are the issue. Didn't want to replace the stock ones if I didn't need to.
.....
  • Injectors caused me random misfire and I spent ton of money. You can buy OEM reman on eBay for $50 for the set with lifetime warranty. These things have a lifetime of 115k. You made your car new - spend another $50 on the injectors. They come with new O-rings etc
  • No sentiment here.
  • Otherwise find a reman place locally and have them reman your OEM - cost you more and time. You may find them on Yelp or Craigslist

Do you smell gas on cold start at the exhaust - it leaks internally?
$50 for reman OEM with lifetime warranty on eBay - injector cleaners cost you $20.
 

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1999 Acura Integra GS
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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
  • Injectors caused me random misfire and I spent ton of money. You can buy OEM reman on eBay for $50 for the set with lifetime warranty. These things have a lifetime of 115k. You made your car new - spend another $50 on the injectors. They come with new O-rings etc
  • No sentiment here.
  • Otherwise find a reman place locally and have them reman your OEM - cost you more and time. You may find them on Yelp or Craigslist

Do you smell gas on cold start at the exhaust - it leaks internally?
$50 for reman OEM with lifetime warranty on eBay - injector cleaners cost you $20.
Thanks for this. I’ve seen the ones you’re talking another on Ebay and will pull the trigger soon. Along with a new fuel filter.. Got a new CEL code P0420. Always assumed it was due to my gas cap, but starting to think differently because the past two days i’ve had some inconsistent starts. Sometimes it’ll fire right up, other times it’ll crank 4-6 times before it finally rolls over. Car runs great again besides that.
 

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That is incorrect.
P0420 is Catalyst Efficiency Below Threshold... Catalytic converter isn't converting any more.
Most likely caused by long term engine misfire(s).
You're correct, but rarely do these cat converters go bad. When they do, there's a combination of mis-fire codes due to blockage. While P0420 does mean, "Catalyst Efficiency Below Threshold", it's typically due to the O2 sensor fouling, making the ECU think that the converter is defective.

When having to decide between a $30 sensor or a $1,000 converter, it's usually a safer bet to just replace the O2 sensor first, then monitor the catalyst.
 
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