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Discussion Starter #1
Hi, was trying to find some input on my 1990 rs. Here's the story, timing belt slipped, replaced all belts and water pump and put back in correct timing, started it up and now idles good sometimes when you press the throttle it hesitates and stumbles and rpms drop, when driving feels like it has no power and it cuts out and stumbles at around 3500 rpm and won't go any higher. Also now the tachometer is inop. The check engine light comes on about 15 seconds after you start it and let it idle, but I can't get a code from it because my ecu does not have a site glass with an led in it. Any suggestions would greatly be appreciated. Thank you
 

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So, when you say your timing belt "slipped", was the engine running when this happened? Did it break? While driving?
 

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No it was one night after work, I walk out to the car to leave go to start it and turned over maybe twice then just sounded like the starter was free spinning, went across checking all different thing (spark,fuel, fuses and relays) then pulled valve cover and found belt was sorta loose and cams were way off.
 

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No it was one night after work, I walk out to the car to leave go to start it and turned over maybe twice then just sounded like the starter was free spinning, went across checking all different thing (spark,fuel, fuses and relays) then pulled valve cover and found belt was sorta loose and cams were way off.
If the motor was spinning in any matter, running or attempting to start, you may have some bent valves. Our motors are an "interference" engine, where pistons WILL smack the valves if a timing belt breaks. A conpression test will verify this for sure.
 

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Yeah I kinda figured that just hadn't gotten to the compression test just yet because it idles good. I know the bent valves could cause the lack of power but would it cause it not to rev passed 3500rpm? Because it sounds just like the rev limiter is set at 3500rpm
 

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Yeah I kinda figured that just hadn't gotten to the compression test just yet because it idles good. I know the bent valves could cause the lack of power but would it cause it not to rev passed 3500rpm? Because it sounds just like the rev limiter is set at 3500rpm
With the MIL light on, and a mixture of no compression, very possibly.
 

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Well just did comp test and about 195psi across all 4 cylinders...
Great, sounds like your motor is healthy.

Now pull codes.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
That's the problem I'm having, the thing is my ecu doesn't have an led light to get the blink codes. Any advise as to another way to pull them? Otherwise I might just try a distributor since my tach went out also.
 

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That's the problem I'm having, the thing is my ecu doesn't have an led light to get the blink codes. Any advise as to another way to pull them? Otherwise I might just try a distributor since my tach went out also.
What ECU do you have in the vehicle?
 

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I don't really know, here is pictures of it again. I had just bought this car from a friend of a friend and only drove it for a week before the timing belt slipped.
That doesn't look like your ECU at all. Your ECU for a 90-91 Integra should be under the passenger side carpet, not the kick-panel that you have shown.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
I'll have to check later then I'm at work now. But can I still pull codes if the eng light isn't on? Because it comes on about 10-15 seconds after you start the car but with key on engine off it's not on. Also wanted to note that when I did the compression test this morning and I was warming the engine for a minute the tach started working again.
 

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I'll have to check later then I'm at work now. But can I still pull codes if the eng light isn't on? Because it comes on about 10-15 seconds after you start the car but with key on engine off it's not on. Also wanted to note that when I did the compression test this morning and I was warming the engine for a minute the tach started working again.
Your tach randomly working/not working is a sign of the ignition coil or your ignition control module, (or sometimes both) failing.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Alright I figured somethin in the distributor had to do with it, I also had put a new coil in because before I knew that the timing belt slipped I pulled the dist cap off and the plastic cover of the coil had cracked and I thought that might of been the starting issue.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
So found the ecu, thanks for the pointers. I got blink code 4- crank angle sensor so hopefully the distributor will take care of that.
 
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Josh044
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